Chumbilly, not you got me thinking again, what is thediff beyween manual mode rekluse and auto mode rekluse?
rekluse clutch what is it all about?
- Thread starter stevie boy
- Start date
A
Adobe-Al
Well-known member
Manual mode-lets the clutch act and feel very close to normal, but it disenages at idle preventing stalling. I'm not sure that all them use manual mode alot do to the number of endurocross racers that race with 2 and 3 speed trannies. especially with the newest series of rekluse.
Huh, thanks guys, things are crazy as far as add ons can go, it would be nice to have a tip over listen to the bike idle, pull on it quick down hill and give that bike hell. I mite actually take my comment back at pullin gears, might add it to the cart for next week. I know this would be altimate for snow biking. Yesturday i had beenstuck overthe handle bars a coup.e times and was thinking how tough it was to findthe gear shift to neutral the trans. Or to kick the bike to start. I take back what i said and see if i can find funds
Now that i think about it a rekluse clutch is more needed in snow biking than any dirt application, how many of you tried to stick aleg out or give it a try to find rhe shifer and cant punch threw the crust layer to let alone get a full kick on the stick. I cant stop thinking of all the situations, i buying one in the morning, have to try to find the time for a write up on install and ride report. I had got a little footage on my xmzs gift form the lady friend yesturday, go pro hero is very nice i hope i dont strip it off my head on a tree limb! Ha ha flippen tree limbs they ARE ALWAYS IN MY WAY!!! LOL
Manual mode is exactly that, a manual clutch just like god intended it! Zero antistall attributes, just good quality components.
So what is the difference between rekluse z start pro and core exp 3.0? Features seem to be thesame.
I personlly consider a rekluse a very expensive, not needed piece of after market equipment. So many people swear by them, but I ride trials as well and can't imagine anything less than a perfectly manual clutch.
What do I know, I can barely ride! Anyone who has ridden with me on dirt can attest to that.
What do I know, I can barely ride! Anyone who has ridden with me on dirt can attest to that.
J
Jaynelson
Well-known member
I gave the Rekluse guys a hard time on dirt....I've always been a manual clutch guy. I've ridden them in the dirt and didn't really "get it," other than stall protection of course.
That said, the snowbike I rode had one installed and I thought it was great in that application. I think a Rekluse and a left hand brake level would be awesome on a snowbike!
That said, the snowbike I rode had one installed and I thought it was great in that application. I think a Rekluse and a left hand brake level would be awesome on a snowbike!
Best mod you can do......except for turbo!
I was very against them for the longest time. But after putting on one I will never own a bike with out one. People say they take the fun out of riding. I say they put the fun back in it. If your idea of fun in pulling the clutch you can sit in the shop and do that! My idea of fun it get where I never thought i could and keep moving forward. With the auto clutch you can still use the clutch but there are times when having one makes all the difference. I say they are 10x better in the snow then they are in the dirt. When you get stuck is some stupidly deep snow and you need to ghost ride it from some odd angle having the auto clutch is a life saver. I've used it on a trail that was so steep that I had to come up to a tree, hug it with one arm and hang the bike out over the edge and throttle forward. with out and A/C it wouldn't have been possible. I still use my clutch to shift and some times even to start but those times when you in and out of the steep and deep in trees it makes for a very handy tool.
If you against one I urge you to try one. They have a 30 day money back so you won't risk any thing.
T
torkd
Well-known member
I've ran the Rekluse 2.0 in my 2006 YZ450 which I've only used for enduro. The 2.0 is the kit that replaces 3 stock clutch plates. It worked great for about 60 hours but my clutch is now completely pooched in the bike. I've replaced all the plates (steel and friction) but for some reason the bike does not move when the clutch is released. I can sit there with the clutch lever out, rev the bike and it will slowly creep forward in any gear (this is without the recluse installed even). I'm completely baffled at this point on what the problem is. Maybe my basket is to notched and needs replacing. 
D
DieselTwitch
Well-known member
I've ran the Rekluse 2.0 in my 2006 YZ450 which I've only used for enduro. The 2.0 is the kit that replaces 3 stock clutch plates. It worked great for about 60 hours but my clutch is now completely pooched in the bike. I've replaced all the plates (steel and friction) but for some reason the bike does not move when the clutch is released. I can sit there with the clutch lever out, rev the bike and it will slowly creep forward in any gear (this is without the recluse installed even). I'm completely baffled at this point on what the problem is. Maybe my basket is to notched and needs replacing.
450 are known to notch baskets, replaced plenty with and without A/C.
Did you set your free play gain after you re did your clutch plates?
Recluse Clutch
I have had the Z start pro on my 07 Yamaha 450 with big bore for 3 years, never had a problem, and on the snowbike it is awsome, I would never go back to manual clutch.
I have had the Z start pro on my 07 Yamaha 450 with big bore for 3 years, never had a problem, and on the snowbike it is awsome, I would never go back to manual clutch.
M
mike_s
Well-known member
One problem with a rekluse clutch is they can be vary vary hard on clutch packs. Especially when a rider gets lazy and just leaves the bike in 3rd gear bacause it will still go. What they arent realizing is that in order to keep the bike from stalling when running like that, the clutch is slipping a TON. Now, dont get me wrong, it can be a fantastic tool, for the racer better holeshots, more explosive out of the corners, for enduro more consistent in tight windy sections. But you have to realize you still gotta shift.
T
torkd
Well-known member
That's the weirdest part, I completely loosened my clutch cable as far as it would go to where my lever had no resistance and it would idle in first gear even without the rekluse. My bike shops in town really aren't great, they wont let me talk to a mechanic and the parts guys are just parts guys they don't know much about that stuff. Its going to suck if I spend almost $400 on clutch parts and the problem isn't fixed. I sure as hell don't want to spend a grand for the shop to look at it. After all this im a little scared to put a rekluse in my new bikes...
I've haven't worked on the bike you have but I would say call recluse! they are great people. They are right next to timbersled. Im willing to bet you have a spacer in the wrong position or something you overlooked. 1000's of people run them so they have a prevent track record.
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PalousePoo
Well-known member
Mrdiesel, Torkd doesnt even have a recluse disc in, reread his post. Torkd, you must have left out a fiber or steel plate. Pull the cover off, you should not be able to wiggle the tabs on the fiber discs at all. When you tighten the pressure plate springs, the whole clutch pack is then bound together, assuming the clutch cable has slack in it. Worn basket finger symptom would be the clutch NOT releasing when you pull in the lever and want to stop. Eng dies. That's not whats causing this. If you can wiggle the clutch pack, pull it apart and count the pieces. You must be short one.
T
torkd
Well-known member
I figured the same thing, I've had it apart about 6 times now. Unless the wiseco disc set came short they should all be there. I did notice the plates sit about 2 to 3 mm bellow the top of the basket, didn't think much of it but it could be the problem. It's almost dirt season so I'll be tearing it back apart shortly. Thanks guys I'll let ya know how it goes.
