I'm wondering which rear skid will get up on top of the fluff the quickest? I have the stock skid with nitrogen shocks and it's good for small powder. But when your running in bottomless powder like I was yesterday it trenches pretty bad the first 50 feet. I want it to pop right up on top! Which skid will do this better per dollar, K-MOD, Timbersled, Holz, or maybe a Cat skid retrofitted in my Apex ? Non boosted Apex Mnt. All input appreciated!
Rear skid sucks, which of these get's on top the quickest ?
- Thread starter Alaskan
- Start date
Never had a chance to try the stock skid, had the Timbersled in from the start. Ran into 2 stock Nytro's in 4' of powder that were struggling and I could run anywhere. Seemed to work very well.
I found the Holz skid to work awesome , they find traction where most skids don't. They are very easy to set up for sleds under 200HP
That said Holz does not make Yamaha stuff anymore and like most skids it is the proper set up that will make it work in the end.
Kmod looks promising, the price is right and looking at it I would guess they had a long hard look at the Holz skid when building it.
Fair enough Holz is out of the Yami Business anyway.
That said Holz does not make Yamaha stuff anymore and like most skids it is the proper set up that will make it work in the end.
Kmod looks promising, the price is right and looking at it I would guess they had a long hard look at the Holz skid when building it.
Fair enough Holz is out of the Yami Business anyway.
B
BigFish BC
Well-known member
really like my timbersled working great very light get on the snow quik for me but i have 300hp
transfer rods to the minimum?
How does it ride other wise if I tighten them up so I get no transfer? I tend to like transfer, I can pop the front up when I need to. I currently have the limiter straps up 2 holes, front shock 2/3rds stiff, rear nitrogen charged shock and the transfer rods set to maximum transfer. If I dial them up to no transfer will I still be able to pull the front up or just spin in firmer conditions? Thanks for all your input! Letting the sled thaw out so I can figure out where the damn vibrations are coming from, this may contribute to going with new skid. Would be nice to not spend the cash right now......anyone have suggestions on a replacement front skid shock?
How does it ride other wise if I tighten them up so I get no transfer? I tend to like transfer, I can pop the front up when I need to. I currently have the limiter straps up 2 holes, front shock 2/3rds stiff, rear nitrogen charged shock and the transfer rods set to maximum transfer. If I dial them up to no transfer will I still be able to pull the front up or just spin in firmer conditions? Thanks for all your input! Letting the sled thaw out so I can figure out where the damn vibrations are coming from, this may contribute to going with new skid. Would be nice to not spend the cash right now......anyone have suggestions on a replacement front skid shock?
N
Nikolai
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Tightening the transfer rods doesn't really take any transfer away, and it helps with controlling the front end on a climb. You also want to loosen the front track shock up to maby only the second notch. Even with my ransfer rods tight, the rear arm in the upper hole, and limiters tight, it transfers great. Plenty of pop still to get in and out of creeks.
