Ratcheting on Braking?

[Skeld]

I haven't checked my track tension yet, but I notice if I have to grab a handful of brakes anywhere but in untracked snow I will get what I'm pretty sure is some track ratcheting before the track will lock up. I can't say I have ever noticed this happening with any other sled. Just a matter of the track being too loose? I only have 315 miles on the sled, and I'm not sure if it was just too loose to start with or is it stretching like crazy for some reason?

 

[Oregonsledder]

I noticed the same thing at about 200 miles. I tightened the track to spec, problem solved. They stretch when new.

 

[t stone]

I would say loose track. You have to run the track tight with the stock drivers.

Stone

 

[xc6rider]

Yep, check track tension. AND/OR chaincase chain tension.

 

[bobgrmkpro]

I have noticed a similiar noise and my friend has also. We both have 2012 Pros with 163 tracks. My track was looser than the specs call for. Mine was about 1 1/2" at the 16 in. point forward from the rear wheels axle with a 10# wt. in the track. The specs call for just 3/8" to 1/2" of track drop at the 16" point. This seems very tight compared to snowmobiles I have run in the past. The clearance between the track and the front heat exchanger is very tight and I suspect that the track can reach the exchanger and make noise if left too loose.
Anyone have some advice and suggestions on how tight the track needs to be.

 

[Pro-8250]

I haven't checked my track tension yet, but I notice if I have to grab a handful of brakes anywhere but in untracked snow I will get what I'm pretty sure is some track ratcheting before the track will lock up. I can't say I have ever noticed this happening with any other sled. Just a matter of the track being too loose? I only have 315 miles on the sled, and I'm not sure if it was just too loose to start with or is it stretching like crazy for some reason?

It's your chain tension.

 

[cascadesnowjunky]

Track is loose!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

tighten both the track and the chain to specs...if the track is loose it is rubbing the coolers at the frt of the tunnel and costing you track speed....

 

[FCR112]

I've been through this too, the track on my 155" needed to be tightened 2 or 3 times in the first 300 miles. It's a Stretcher

 

[skibreeze]

It's your chain tension.

Uh, it's the track. Had to tighten mine twice so far.

 

[Skeld]

Ok thanks guys. It's not too bad as I haven't noticed it under power. I left my sled where I'm going riding on Wednesday so hopefully it can make it through another ride without causing a problem if I'm easy on it. I'm leary of tightening the track since my thought has always been it's bad to have it too tight, but then again I've never had a sled ratchet under braking either.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

tighten it..if it is indeed ratcheting..1 full turn on each adjuster...still does it, 1 more full turn...check the chain tension as well...loosen lock nut, screw in finger tight, back off 2 flats and lockdown lock nut....

 

[FCR112]

Seriously, tighten it... Exact same deal myself and others had only under braking... simple fix

 

[skibreeze]

If it ratchets, it's too loose. I'd tighten it 2 full turns to start off and see if that is enough to stop it.

 

[FatDogX]

I would say loose track. You have to run the track tight with the stock drivers.

Stone

X2

First 150 miles mine stretched quite a bit.

 

[turbolover]

Ok thanks guys. It's not too bad as I haven't noticed it under power. I left my sled where I'm going riding on Wednesday so hopefully it can make it through another ride without causing a problem if I'm easy on it. I'm leary of tightening the track since my thought has always been it's bad to have it too tight, but then again I've never had a sled ratchet under braking either.

It should be a 15 MM wrench. Tighten it one full turn of the adjusters and check the side to side alignment of the track. If you don't have a weight to use for exact tension that would be a good start.

Check the tension in the chaincase. Loosen the locknut finger tight while rolling the clutch back and forth. Back it off 2 flats and tighten the jam nut.

If you still have ratcheting problems tighten the track some more. Leaving it too loose and continuing to let it ratchet can rip the drive nubs off the track and destroy it. A ten minute max maintenace job could cost you a the price of a new track.

 

[Skeld]

I'll bring a 15 mm with me then and give each side a turn to see if that cures it.

 

[Goinboardin]

Different sled, but my 04' Edge did the same thing this fall. I went to a 174 track and had a terrible noise when on the brakes going downhill. I thought maybe I screwed up when I was in the chain case last. Then saw some threads on here about braking/ratcheting. Tightened it up little by little and now its great. No more ratcheting while braking, and my chaincase is all in order.

 

[Pro-8250]

For me it's always been the chain stretching, but I suppose that's because I am watching the track when I warm it up, and I for get about the chain.

 

[2XM3]

Make sure you check the chain....

These tracks have to be run tight, do the 10 pound weight check, its amazing how tight they want it but it does work better at spec...Paddles tend to stand up more under load as well.