So I own a 2008 RAM 2500 6.7l TD. This is my first diesel, have had it for 6 months and 6k miles. The turbo performance is not consistent. Sometimes it just screams, but most of the time the performance is just average. Originally I thought it was temp oriented, or a warm engine, but no consistency. I am trying to figure out why, because I like driving it more when it is screaming. It is bone stock! When this happens at about 1600 RPM it just boosts, UNBELIVABLY. The rest of the time just gradual boost from 1600 to 2500. Any ideas for me?
RAM 2500 Performance
- Thread starter Borninsnow
- Start date
well you could get an aurora 3000 turbo from ATS or take out the DPF( diesel particulate filter) to get better flow or chip it to get more fuel into the cylinder and get more air flow to the turbo
im not sure on the 6.7's if the wastegate is electronic or vaccum.
is it an auto or a manual?
well first you might want to wait for it to be completely broke-in before you go and do any thing to it. we bought our 99 5.9L with 9K on the truck and we were told by many people that break in point was about 15k.
so double your millage and go crazy
im not sure on the 6.7's if the wastegate is electronic or vaccum.
is it an auto or a manual?
well first you might want to wait for it to be completely broke-in before you go and do any thing to it. we bought our 99 5.9L with 9K on the truck and we were told by many people that break in point was about 15k.
so double your millage and go crazy
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manual. I have read a little about those things, but I thought the engine needed to run like 40 minutes to clear the bad exhaust and reset? I am not sure that I am always hitting this time frame, but not 100% sure. I do plan on doing the following:
Cold air intake
exhaust
chip
I am tracking performance stock, then add one, track performance, etc. Trying to get an idea of the value of each change.
Cold air intake
exhaust
chip
I am tracking performance stock, then add one, track performance, etc. Trying to get an idea of the value of each change.
get rid of the DPF and block the EGR, get a programmer (i suggest waiting for smarty 6.7, should be out next month I believe), CAI and call it good for a while.
Hi I dont want to hack this thread but I heard dodge trany is weak for chip I have 06 diesel and was thinking to put chip on my but auto trany to spendy to do experiment, anyone tryed chip with auto trany.
Hi I dont want to hack this thread but I heard dodge trany is weak for chip I have 06 diesel and was thinking to put chip on my but auto trany to spendy to do experiment, anyone tryed chip with auto trany.
you can always just get a new valve body or torque converter and itll hold a programmer pretty well.. but ya the 48re isnt built to handle more power than stock.
no stock auto tranny is build to handle more hp than stock
D
Disco Dan Richter
Well-known member
well...............the auto thing totally depends on how you drive, and how much you chip. I have an 06 with chip, regularily use the 130 hp chip, no problems. I never tow with the chip at all either(duh). I brought my truck in for a tranny fluid change, he did mention the belts were loose, but said everything was fine, fluid wasnt even dirty.
Comparing the 06 auto tranny to the new auto they put in the 08's is not fair. The old auto is junk compared to the new one.
Go with a PMT + MP8, take off the egr and dpf. Totally different pickup.
Go with a PMT + MP8, take off the egr and dpf. Totally different pickup.
I know a guy who has an 06 with 20,000 miles that dynoed 485hp on a stock 48 re.put 15,000 hard miles on it before it slipped....
"im not sure on the 6.7's if the wastegate is electronic or vaccum."
take a wild guess.lol. they have been electronically controlled since 04.5.
so the 48re is junk compared to the 68rfe? please explain the technical differnces on a 68rfe other than it has two more gears.
well how much are you towing with it? i gaurentee that if you put 8 tons on it that its going to feel it pretty bad even w/out the chip
thats all it really has on it, is just 2 more gears. IMHO any truck with an auto tranny just isnt meant to pull
never said they were the greatest for pulling.they are better for everyday driving.
D
Disco Dan Richter
Well-known member
Most I tow is a 4 place enclosed, so not a big weight issue, but I agree taht id you pull major weights, need a manual.
Had to ediit this, got a bit riled up.
Depends on the make/model of the pickup and the year on if you want a auto/manual or if it matters. I own both. One of each. Both have their perks, both hold to pulling with alot of weight. Regardless, in the 6.7, as long as you are not in regen, they pull very well.
Depends on the make/model of the pickup and the year on if you want a auto/manual or if it matters. I own both. One of each. Both have their perks, both hold to pulling with alot of weight. Regardless, in the 6.7, as long as you are not in regen, they pull very well.
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Borninsnow,
If your truck is runnin inconsistant like you describe then based on what your saying its the diffrence between your truck going through REGEN. Have you had any CEL's (check engine light) Have you had your turbo cleaned out by a dealer. If you want do the DPF EGR delete, this will help a ton for driveability, mileage, longevity, and slightly power. If your looking for more then yeah, go with and edge juice/attitude combo, PMT+MP8 stack, Intakes really wake these trucks up also. Keep in mind the MP8 will raise rail pressure and more than likely cause fuel system problems later down the road.
If your truck is runnin inconsistant like you describe then based on what your saying its the diffrence between your truck going through REGEN. Have you had any CEL's (check engine light) Have you had your turbo cleaned out by a dealer. If you want do the DPF EGR delete, this will help a ton for driveability, mileage, longevity, and slightly power. If your looking for more then yeah, go with and edge juice/attitude combo, PMT+MP8 stack, Intakes really wake these trucks up also. Keep in mind the MP8 will raise rail pressure and more than likely cause fuel system problems later down the road.
I would hate to see what kind of egts these 6.7s make. my stock 04.5 nv5600 5.9 with a plugged up cat @ 90,000 miles ran 1500 degrees in a 15 second pull empty with about 28 pounds of boost(no fooler). the turbo couldn't rid of the heat with the cat behind it.now iam getting ready to replace the manifold due to cracks all over it. I can almost guarantee you that the 6.7 will have the same long term issues that the 04.5-07 5.9s did.dpf delete is a must after so many miles.btw your turbo will spool lots better with no blockage in the back..no more inconsistent power..
"Keep in mind the MP8 will raise rail pressure and more than likely cause fuel system problems later down the road"
not sure i would run a pressure box stacked with another on a stock truck. and if i did i would monitor the rail pressure.with aftermarket sticks then for sure.
not sure i would run a pressure box stacked with another on a stock truck. and if i did i would monitor the rail pressure.with aftermarket sticks then for sure.
If you stack just a pressure box by itself you will get higher than stock max rail pressures (around 24,000 PSI stock and upto 27,000+ PSI with some pressure box setups) But what happens is after a long WOT run and you lift you will have a big rail spike which can quickly go up to almost 30,000 PSI!!!! Granted this is only for a brief moment but is usually what can crack or etch fuel system internals. The factory pressure relief valve is only good for about a handful of openings before its junk and will bleed off pressure. I have seen people shim or completely block off the PRV which really can cause problems in the fuel system.
When you stack say a timing/duration box, or larger flowing injectors, along with a pressure box you will have a bit more bottom and mid range, not a whole lot on top end since your now opening the injectors longer thus the CP3 (high pressure pump) cant flow enough volume at the higher pressures it was originally designed for now demanded by the pressure box itself to fool the electronics into making higher rail pressure. Your spikes will be around the same PSI when you lift from say a hard WOT run but driving/cruising isnt much of a change.
