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question with an "ATACC" compensator

i recently bought a sled that has an Automatic Temperature and Altitude Carburetor Compensator on it and i was wondering if anyone has had any issues with it working or not. The guy we bought it from rode only in the black hills and bighorns and claims there were no problems. We ride in Togwotee and the Snowies.

We read up on it and it reads that it works up to 8000 ft. My question is will a higher elevation on that affect the sled at all or should we put bigger jets in it to start with.

any other advise is greatly appreciated

thanks
 
I have one on my carbed 800. location MN. I've been to the big horns, seirra madre's, cooke, and West Y. no problems. I run an EGT and keep an eye on it. I've been up to at least 10,000ft. if not higher. So you should be good to go.

Just jet for your home location and temps.

Good luck.
 
Have mine on an '01 MM700 jetted for 1500 ft. I've run everything from Iowa to Cooke City in the last 6 years and haven't had to change a thing. Tog and the Snowies no problem. Jet for you lowest elevation and coldest temp. Works great.
 
I had problems with mine.....roll the sled or just hard riding and it gets fuel in the lines and it won't work until the lines are cleared.....and once you unplug the blue hose you lose your baseline. They also need to be "re-baselined" by removing and reinstalling the blue hose once in a while so you need to know the altitude and temp at which the original "baseline" was determined. IMO a PITA$$ unless you ride more than a 6000 foot elevation swing in a day.
 
Fuel getting in the lines may be from mounting it so the lines don't run all down hill from the compensator to the float bowl vents. With them running down hill the fuel drains back into the carbs automatically. I have never had that happen with any of mine in 5 or 6 years. If your sled didn't have altitude/temp compensation the ATACC is about the only option. I sure hate to leave any HP on the table and jet lean enough to run clean at 10,000 ft in the afternoon at the 30 degrees in the sun and then worry about squeaking it early in the morning down at 7500 ft at 5 degrees.

Mounting it in my mod long track XP TNT was quite a challenge to get the lines running downhill.

Good Luck

Here is my latest gauge for tuning I played test mule for, it was originally made for twin turbo automotive drag racing, etc.. It has Left and Right EGT plus Pipe Belly EGT, TPS, Air Fuel Ratio, RPM, MPH, Coolant Temp, Air Intake Temp, and it Data Logs. Can add jackshaft Rpm or even 3 axis accelerometer. The screen is touch screen, any reading just touch and a list of all sensors comes up and you can change to any one of them. Also has multiple gauge faces (layout, analog look or bar tach) to choose from.

The two things that are really awesome with this gauge is the TPS, just glance down and see at 32% throttle opening what your EGT's are and the Belly Pipe temp gives you a clue as to where your HP peak is if you Dyno it and match the Belly Temp on the dyno. In other words lets say at 1000 degees pipe temp on the dyno HP peaks at 8000 and at 1100 degrees it goes to 8150 etc. Now you can tell pretty near exactly what happens in a climb to your HP at what R's and where to try and optimize clutching. DynoTechResearch.com has been getting into this quite a bit lately.

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Had one on a slightly (ported, shaved head, running a slp single) modded 900 cat and it worked great. Never touched the blue line in the 4 years we ran with it. It would start hard on occasion if the sled was rolled over but other then that not a hiccup. Ran a Digitron too, checked plugs during the first few rides and set a base line, egt's were always 1150-1220. Had mine jetted for the elevation we stored the sled at 2500', we typically rode between 5000-10000'.
 
No problems on a 04 M-Viper at all, ride mostly RE, buffalo pass,and the snowies, in fact rolled it 2 weeks ago at RE and it sat on the windshield for a bit til i could get to it...started after 4 pulls and no problems. We have road Buena Vista Co. well above 10,000 ft. never had any issues at all. :beer;:D
 
Just curious... What sled is in question?

I installed them on 2 700 polaris' this year, both have Keihin carbs and we've yet to get them to run as good as they were prior to the ATACC. Had some reputable wrenches tell me that those Keihin's are a royal pain to get tuned.

One thing I did that I wonder if I shouldn't have.... I turned in the temperature screw 1/6 of a turn to compensate for warmer temps, very rarely do we ever ride when it's 0 or below.
 
I had one on a 03 700 pol., neutered that sled, took it back off. Have one on a 99 700 ps and it works great.
 
They work great if properly installed. Ran on Polaris 03 & 05 800's & still have one on my wifes 04 700. Quit packing gas.
 
98rmk

I have one on my 98 700 mod. Its a big bore 760 bored 02 flatslide carbs and it works great. I get great fuel milage to
 
so here's a question, if you are installing a attac system at 3500' but you start riding at 1500' how does it set it's baseline?
 
The instructions say to jet for the lowest elevation. There is a trick if you only ride 1500' to get to higher, remove the vent lines on carbs to richen the mix & put them back on when you get to 3500'. To be safe though just jet for 1500 & it will compensate for increases.
 
If you install it when you're at 3500 ft and jet it for 1500 you should be safe to ride at 3500 and up. When you get to 1500 ft., pull the blue line off and replace before you start riding (at 1500 ft) to reset the baseline. (I would think you could even ride from 3500 down to 1500, it might just run rich. Please correct me if I'm wrong.)
 
thanks BigAl , that's the thing, i hate the i think thing, when you sell stuff out of calgary elevation 3400', and everyone goes home to install, then they head to revy for example, not knowing they're at 1500' in elevation at the bottom, with the hood up doing the way the ***k.
 
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