Thanks AKSNOWRIDER
Thats what I was thinking, I had the blue/pink spring in my Dragon and liked it, going to order one to day, wont get a chance to try it till the 5th of March, will let you know how it goes.
Question for those who have clutched their Pro rmk's
- Thread starter AKSNOWRIDER
- Start date
Thanks AKSNOWRIDER
Thats what I was thinking, I had the blue/pink spring in my Dragon and liked it, going to order one to day, wont get a chance to try it till the 5th of March, will let you know how it goes.
Lake Tahoe 6500-9000 feet
2011 Pro RMK155
Ethanol Fuel/ Ethanol Plug installed
321115 Belt
1700 miles on the clock
With all stock clutching-- pulling 7800 on climbs.
Put in 10-60's, new stock primary spring, engagement now around 4-4100rpm, pulling around 8100 in deep pow, clutches getting hot, finding belt "hairs" under bodywork. Also have popped small sections of cord out of two belts, at $180 per belt, I need to find a solution.
Now I have two springs to try: Will do them one at a time..
Yellow team primary spring to lower engagament and try and get more control out of the hole.
Also have black/ purple secondary spring to install to see if I can get rpms more consistent and reduce the belt slippage that I believe is contributing to the "hair" formation.
Want to try weights with more heel bias like 11 series or MTX, BB, etc... need to buy those still, the springs I have
2011 Pro RMK155
Ethanol Fuel/ Ethanol Plug installed
321115 Belt
1700 miles on the clock
With all stock clutching-- pulling 7800 on climbs.
Put in 10-60's, new stock primary spring, engagement now around 4-4100rpm, pulling around 8100 in deep pow, clutches getting hot, finding belt "hairs" under bodywork. Also have popped small sections of cord out of two belts, at $180 per belt, I need to find a solution.
Now I have two springs to try: Will do them one at a time..
Yellow team primary spring to lower engagament and try and get more control out of the hole.
Also have black/ purple secondary spring to install to see if I can get rpms more consistent and reduce the belt slippage that I believe is contributing to the "hair" formation.
Want to try weights with more heel bias like 11 series or MTX, BB, etc... need to buy those still, the springs I have
you are on the right track murf, heel heavy weights seem to help immensly with the hot clutches/slipping...black/purple should help as well...but watch temps..especially which one gets hotter..thats the one that needs the most work...dont forget to throw in at least 1 delrin in the sec as well, it helps with the binding/rpm hunting on climbs....
Remembered this time to mention it's E-start. I'm thinking that starter gear is equal to spinning more weight (because it is)
Installed Blk/Purple and three Delrins one under spring cup, one on bottom of spring, one on top of spring. Just a short burst in the meadow by my place in 2-3 deep drifts on a small hill. RPM a lot more stable-- less hunting. Hitting 8250 consistently. Engagement around 4,000 rpm.
Will ride tomorrow with this and bring the yellow Team Primary spring with me it is a 120/340 versus the stock black 140/330. Assuming it will lower the engagement hopefully the the 340 final rate won't drop the peak rpm, but maybe keep it from banging the limiter if the track unloads.
When I try a heel heavy weight might put the stock black 140/330 back in.
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Switched to the Team yellow spring.
Lowered the engagement and reduced the peak rpm just slightly 8000-8100 in deeper snow. Like to try a 120-330 spring just need to find it.
Bigger issue is the clutching "feels" good but I'm still building stupid amounts of HEAT. Need to vent the panels....badly.
After a cruising back on the trail to load on the truck I checked the clutches. Primary and Secondary felt about the same temp and I could keep my hands on them, but the belt was hot-- couldn't squeeze the sides and keep my fingers on it.
Thinking of trying a heel heavy 62 gram and see if that gives me more belt hold and less slip. I imagine the slip is what is building my heat.
Lowered the engagement and reduced the peak rpm just slightly 8000-8100 in deeper snow. Like to try a 120-330 spring just need to find it.
Bigger issue is the clutching "feels" good but I'm still building stupid amounts of HEAT. Need to vent the panels....badly.
After a cruising back on the trail to load on the truck I checked the clutches. Primary and Secondary felt about the same temp and I could keep my hands on them, but the belt was hot-- couldn't squeeze the sides and keep my fingers on it.
Thinking of trying a heel heavy 62 gram and see if that gives me more belt hold and less slip. I imagine the slip is what is building my heat.
murf, panel vents really wont "cool" teh clutches much when riding, they do help when you stop..your clutching when right..should be pretty cool without vents...how about trying the stock sec spring, with your yellow primary spring, and weight it till rpms are right, as for electric start...havent really noticed a diff as far as rpm loss vrs non elec clutchs....
After reviewing my 2010-11 season.
2500+ miles. First belt went 900+ miles, all stock clutching, lots of high load pow riding.
Next 1600 miles, went through 6 belts, building stupid amounts of heat, even when cruising down trail...
The plan for 2011-12 season.
New 2012 motor mount kit. I have the Polaris alignment tool and motor is aligned when static, I think it is twisting under load and building heat.
Clutch serviced by Carl's--- balance, re machine faces, reset side clearance
11-60 Polaris weights (heel heavy)
Back to stock black primary spring (possibly SLP blue/ pink-- what can I expect with blue/pink SLP spring?)
Venting the side panels
Hoping to return to 900 mile belt life and cooler belt temps in general.
2500+ miles. First belt went 900+ miles, all stock clutching, lots of high load pow riding.
Next 1600 miles, went through 6 belts, building stupid amounts of heat, even when cruising down trail...
The plan for 2011-12 season.
New 2012 motor mount kit. I have the Polaris alignment tool and motor is aligned when static, I think it is twisting under load and building heat.
Clutch serviced by Carl's--- balance, re machine faces, reset side clearance
11-60 Polaris weights (heel heavy)
Back to stock black primary spring (possibly SLP blue/ pink-- what can I expect with blue/pink SLP spring?)
Venting the side panels
Hoping to return to 900 mile belt life and cooler belt temps in general.
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are you running the 115 belts?
I find that every sled I've owned that they can all use a gear down. ( other then my m8). If you gear down it's easier to get going and therefore less strain on the belt and clutches and therefore less heat build up especially under load.
A
AkLogan
Well-known member
Lucky. I had one pull cords and another that completely gernaded nothing left larger then a couple inches. Another guy i ride with had the same thing happen. both running 115's
G
gman086
Well-known member
That's not the problem with the Pro - gearing is fine (unless you do all of your riding above 10,000 feet maybe). The problem is the sheave faces are cut at different angles for smoother belt engagement for the "masses". For us mtn riders that have her pinned all the time this creates belt slip at WOT. Carl's sheave mod faces the "odd" angle of the corresponding sheave to match the other sheave with proper angle (which also matches the belt angle BTW). This alone solves the heat build/belt issue - been there, done that. In fact my Holz vent kit is still on the workbench... not much need for it once you figure this out!
Have FUN!
G MAN
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Anybody have more results?
Long term best setups?
Figured i'd bump this to help guys with questions.
Long term best setups?
Figured i'd bump this to help guys with questions.
Murph I am doing the Carls clutch on my 13 Pro. How did you like it after they machined the sheaves?
11 pro 155 stock (5500-8000) heavier Oregon snow/wellfed Oregonian
by the end of the season i was running
primary
mds (67g or 68g i can't remeber exactly
)
black spring (120-300)
secondary
carls helix
blk /purple (2 derlins)
geared down to 19/42
it seem pretty good but on longer pulls i would lose rpm(fade)
and the gear down seem worse on over all prefomance
so i think i'll be going back to stock gearing and play with the primary
and maybe a torque arm and have carls do the clutch
by the end of the season i was running
primary
mds (67g or 68g i can't remeber exactly
)black spring (120-300)
secondary
carls helix
blk /purple (2 derlins)
geared down to 19/42
it seem pretty good but on longer pulls i would lose rpm(fade)
and the gear down seem worse on over all prefomance
so i think i'll be going back to stock gearing and play with the primary
and maybe a torque arm and have carls do the clutch
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