Question for those who have clutched their Pro rmk's

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Well, I have been working on the clutching on my 163 Pro rmk, heres what I have found so far, running the same basic setup as I used on my 163 dragon, slp green/pink primary spring, Mtx-68 gram weights, and black/purple secondary spring, with carls 62/42/.46 helix, riding this setup under 3000 ft elevations it works much better then stock with a 2-4 mph track speed pickup depending on snow conditions, belt temps are much better then stock clutching and almost no belt dust noticable...yesterday I rode this saame setup at 3500-4800 ft and while it still performed good, the secondary was noticably hotter then the primary(could still hold onto either clutch or belt after several climbs but the sec was hotter)rpms were down to 7850-8050 with a burst to 8250 if the track unloaded on a climb...this setup needs more work for higher elevations to be as good as it can be....performance wise at the higher elevations I think this setup worked better then the stock setup with 64 gram belly busters i tried a few weeks ago...I would like to try this setup with a little less helix, maybe a 60/40/.36 and see if it doesnt help with the sec heat buildup as well as with getting the super snappy feeling back...at 4500 ft the 68 mtx's are just a bit heavy and 65's would be a better choice from what i am seeing, whats everyone else seeing?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I will add, best on hill, deep snow performance I have seen so far is running 8200-8300 rpm, but..and this is big, if you unload the track at 8300 rpm, you will most likely hit the rev limiter and get a bog...so, you have to watch your prm's very closely(using the digital guage isnt good enough, you need to use the record feature and pwatch on playback), you also have to watch for a midrange over rev as well..it is possible to hit the limiter on hardpack and at 1/2 throttle....but..the on hill difference in climbing ability between 8100 rpm and 8300 rpm is several mph of ground speed on identical sleds...and its been repeatable on any snow condition we have come across....

 

[B2]

I ride between 8-11k. I have tried SLP blue/pink with 68g (empty) MTX weights in the primary, and black purple in secondary with a 58/40 helix. I was seeing solid rpm about 8250, but was building a lot of clutch heat and would sometimes fade after long pulls. I then ran stock primary spring with 10-60s, and the secondary the same (58/40/.36 and black purple spring). Much better performance, less clutch heat, and better climbing track speed - 8300 on the trail and 8150 climbing. Also seeing some interesting results with a red/black secondary spring . I am going to try MTX 62s with some rivet weight added tomorrow with the red/black secondary spring (140/240). I tried this setup breifly at about 7500-8500 feet and was seeing around 8450 rpm unloaded, so I think it will be in the ball park at 10k in steep loaded conditions.

 

[pura vida]

ak

what is the spring rate on your primary? i'm running close to the same as you but with about 66gram weights. what gearing are you running? as you know that would also lower belt heat but could potentially kill your track speed.

pv

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

ak

what is the spring rate on your primary? i'm running close to the same as you but with about 66gram weights. what gearing are you running? as you know that would also lower belt heat but could potentially kill your track speed.

pv

pv the slp green/pink is listed as a 160/340 spring(but slp measures at a different collapsed height vrs polaris and team, gearing/sled is bone stock 163 pro(should be 20/42 if i remember right), so far with everything I have tried both on the pro and the dragon is the cfi motors like a heal heavy weight...IE heelclickers, 11 series or mtx's........they just pull harder all thru the range as well as getting consistent rpm's...

 

[pura vida]

interesting thanks. i'm still running the 10 series and am getting a little rpm variation at times. yeah the stock gearing is 20/42. was considering dropping it but trying to work on the clutching first. i'm splitting hairs now, since it runs so good the vast majority of the time. but who isn't always looking for that little extra... enjoy

 

[HiWaYman92]

First ride on slp blue/pink and team black/purple today. Rode with two bone stock pro's with same 155 track. Drag race, I edged out on the flat by 1/2 sled-who cares. High mark, I edged out by a tad depending on the situation. Up hill drag race, I edged out by 1/2 sled again. My sled bumps straight to 8300 on the trail, but on the hill it varies on the climbs between 7900 and 8150 just like it did with stock clutching. I don't think there was any major gains over stock springs.

 

[tyb57]

On my way to west yellowstone. I put in the 60 gram BB weights because I couldn't vet the 10 series in time. I also have the blk/ppl team secondary. Just wondering if any knows how the BB weights work. I have the 155 assault. Thanks in advance!

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

you will like the BB's, they are a heel heavy weight and will work good in the pro...I have ran mine with 64 gram BB's and was happy with the results at 4500 ft...

 

[gopher-it!]

rmk clutching

3000-5000 ft. tried carls set up , a bit better than stock but still poor track speed, 58/44 ,red black, much better, 19/43 gears noticed very little difference. mtx weights big gain over stock weights set at 67.5 grams. felt pen mark showing its still not shifting up . 38-42 track speed in deep. NOW machined jack shaft to 1" and key way, formula secondary, dropped to 63 mtx now its shifting ,45-50 plus track speed . makes this sled hard to beleive its stock. thanks to dono for the tip on this clutch set up. WOW.

 

[AK Soul]

I must be slow...... What exactly did you mean, you machined the jackshaft to fit a different secondary? Are you using a carls helix?

 

[gopher-it!]

clutch

I must be slow...... What exactly did you mean, you machined the jackshaft to fit a different secondary? Are you using a carls helix?

yes, cut the end of stock jackshaft off and welded on new end with 1" key way. i tried carls in the team. now running old cat stlye clutch but with a formula kit on it. had an awesome two days of fresh powder riding now sled back to cutting out and bogging, going to pull all connectors and dilectric grease . maybe try to bypass tss.

 

[aebsledder]

Yeah!

Good to see the return of what I consider to be one of the most helpful and productive threads ever to grace the "pages" of Snowest. Thanks, AK.
I am running 10-60s, stock helix, stock primary, and a Black Purple in my secondary. I ride mostly between 7-10 thousand feet. The biggest difference I noticed with the Black/Purple is the sled seemed to hold rpms better in deeper snow. I also tried and red/black in the secondary and that seemed to work pretty good too. I am probably going to experiment a little with the mtx weights if I can get a hold of some. Keep the set-ups comin fellas.

 

[gman086]

yes, cut the end of stock jackshaft off and welded on new end with 1" key way. i tried carls in the team. now running old cat stlye clutch but with a formula kit on it. had an awesome two days of fresh powder riding now sled back to cutting out and bogging, going to pull all connectors and dilectric grease . maybe try to bypass tss.

I pulled every one of my connectors and did the dielectric grease thing and viola, no more cut out! Hope it works for you too. Just don't do the oxygen sensor ones if you run one!

What is a "formula" mod?

Thanks,

G

 

[EricW]

Just don't do the oxygen sensor ones (blue translucent plastic over the connectors).G

Why not? Did mine yesterday. Did I screw up? Thanks. EW

 

[gopher-it!]

kit

I pulled every one of my connectors and did the dielectric grease thing and viola, no more cut out! Hope it works for you too. Just don't do the oxygen sensor ones (blue translucent plastic over the connectors).

What is a "formula" mod?

Thanks,

G

formula xd1 kit m&m performance. different helix ,dual springs, lose reverse but can you ever hear that track spin up. also why not oxygen connectors? there was a lot of water in and on the connectors by the clutch cover. also may be getting water in the air box from the head light adjuster hole, the foam is not a complete seal.

 

[gman086]

Yes, the ones by the clutch seem to be the problem connectors. Zip tie the one with all the yellow wires tight as it is not locked together and check the ECM plugs after taking off the oil tank.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[Reg2view]

That's just a exhaust temp sensor, not an 02.

 

[ENDO1]

Well, I have been working on the clutching on my 163 Pro rmk, heres what I have found so far, running the same basic setup as I used on my 163 dragon, slp green/pink primary spring, Mtx-68 gram weights, and black/purple secondary spring, with carls 62/42/.46 helix, riding this setup under 3000 ft elevations it works much better then stock with a 2-4 mph track speed pickup depending on snow conditions, belt temps are much better then stock clutching and almost no belt dust noticable...yesterday I rode this saame setup at 3500-4800 ft and while it still performed good, the secondary was noticably hotter then the primary(could still hold onto either clutch or belt after several climbs but the sec was hotter)rpms were down to 7850-8050 with a burst to 8250 if the track unloaded on a climb...this setup needs more work for higher elevations to be as good as it can be....performance wise at the higher elevations I think this setup worked better then the stock setup with 64 gram belly busters i tried a few weeks ago...I would like to try this setup with a little less helix, maybe a 60/40/.36 and see if it doesnt help with the sec heat buildup as well as with getting the super snappy feeling back...at 4500 ft the 68 mtx's are just a bit heavy and 65's would be a better choice from what i am seeing, whats everyone else seeing?

I was in McCall with my PRO RMK 163 last weekend, stop by Hinson Power Sports and installed the black purple secondary spring, stock helix and the stock spring in primary with 68 MTX weights no rivets, HPS can. Sled ran great could hold 8050 to 8100 on most climbs some times would see a drop to 7900 then come right back, on the trail at about 6000 to 6500 ft would hit 8300 real easy. non-ethanol fuel and plug.
Would like to see it hold closer to 8150 to 8200 on the climbs, not sure if I should go with a different primary spring or weights or helix ? I check the stock primary spring to see if had broken, Hinson Power Sports said they had seen several that had broke close to the end and cause a 100 to150 rpm drop, mine looked ok but on closer inspection noticed that right the end of the coil wear the spring is ground down to a taper, about 1 inch from the tip it was half the thickness compared to last inch, maybe this is wear they are breaking, I had another spring from from 09 Dragon and it was not ground the same way, nor are any of my other springs, all so the tip was about 1/4"
above the next coil and all of my other springs the tip is touching the next coil, how ever the height was the same. ???????

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Endo, try slp's blue/pink and see if it doesnt bump you up enough on rpm's..you might even have to add a gram back on the mtx's,but try it empty first...think that will get you...and shoot for 82-8250 for rpm..I think you will like it...