Are you guys getting the vert Steering post from Cat or is there an aftermarket one?
Question for M1100t owners...
- Thread starter JSun
- Start date
The 1100t will go places an 800 can only dream of.
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Owen - do you have a refernce picture of these clamps you speak of?
Just want to make sure I have WFO power.
Thank you
C
catweasel
Well-known member
I think I got the biggest compliment this weekend. Big mountain riding and a couple of guys, one on a new 2012 Pro and the other on a Dragon, stopped to hang out for a while and watch my group climb. Never met them before, but real nice guys.
After watching us, the guy with the Pro looks at me and says "I am going to trade this Pro in on one of those next year. That is the most impressive sled I have ever seen"
I just smiled.......
After watching us, the guy with the Pro looks at me and says "I am going to trade this Pro in on one of those next year. That is the most impressive sled I have ever seen"
I just smiled.......
I really am enjoying the feed back here. I snow checked today but have until the 15th to tell him if i want an 800 or t1100. I'm really leaning for the T1100 but am also torn between the 153 and 162. I ride about 50/50 trail / off trail. So please keep the feed back coming.
H
high time
Well-known member
I'd get a M 1,100 T, '13 in a min.
The '13 have a better track. steering and balance. They will have all their hoses on, fuel filters in place and the reverse fixed, plus a three year waranty.
Now that I've had one, the 800's only seem to make big noise and not go anywhere. The 1,100 T will pull all the way to the top.
I'd get the long track., because power without traction is the same as not having power. I can't tell my sled's are long, except they go better than a short track.
Owen
The '13 have a better track. steering and balance. They will have all their hoses on, fuel filters in place and the reverse fixed, plus a three year waranty.
Now that I've had one, the 800's only seem to make big noise and not go anywhere. The 1,100 T will pull all the way to the top.
I'd get the long track., because power without traction is the same as not having power. I can't tell my sled's are long, except they go better than a short track.
Owen
By far the best thing about the 1100t is that fact that by putting a straightpipe and a cold air intake you are right around 200 hp. With full warranty. Do some lightweighting and you got a sled that runs with the mod sleds but without the wrenching and headache's. Added 3" CE, 3" post forward to mine and will be trying the 38" front end this weekend. Couldn't be happier with this sled. Except for reverse. But at least it goes forward at a blistering pace
B
bigbird
Well-known member
What clutch setup are guys running around 6000 ft. Had one with us this past week and was looking forward to riding. It was a complete pig. The setup had to be off. In 2 ft of pow would hold 40mph track speed and 7600 rpm. Cats fit and finish is still junk. First day out and bolts coming loose and lots of melted wires.
Someone needs to redesign the vert steering bushing. With an oil lite or a bearing. Plastic one doesn't live up to abusive tree rdiding and wears out fast. After a month mines so sloppy lol
So if a guy wanted one that worked the "best" in the tight trees which model would you order? There are only about 15 ways you can buy an 1100T, lol. Vert steering, 38", 162 track is what I want but is there a specific model that you buy for that? Any other options to get? Can you get 240 reliable pump gas horsepower out of one of these sleds? How do you get that power? What is the lightest ready to ride weight that somebody has achieved with a Cat 1100T?
Start with the HCR if you want the lightest one. It cost more but has evol shocks on the front and looks real nice with the colored rails and black rear suspension arms. Add a lightweight muffler and battery. Get a BD box or ECU flash and clutch kit and be ready for some real fun. Yes it will still be heavy.
Those who have not ridden one with the Cat vertical steering need to. The difference is night and day....it's not even the same sled. The ski stance is a give and take. Easier to boondock but not as stable on the trail. Anxious to try the 38" kit set to 39"...might be the happy medium.
Last ride set up with the above mods in 3+ feet of awesome powder at 18lbs boost and 60+ mph track speed in a climb it was an absolute blast to ride. Everyone who rode it was grinning from ear to ear. Yes it was still heavy in the trees but not even the same sled we took out of the box a few months ago.
It is not the perfect sled for everyone but the 2013 will be a good base to start with and can be made downright bad a** for reasonable money.
Woody
So I just got back from 3 days of riding with Chris Brown in Whistler. That guy can ride his turbo Nytro in the trees as good or better than anyone I have ever seen or ridden with. Got me all jacked up to do a lightweight(yep that is relative) 240HP Nytro with Skinz front end, T sled skid and on and on. Looks like about 25K to do it right. It just looks like the Artic Cat is so much closer stock to what I want to do. I think you posted weights of different sleds this year, what did a stock HCR 1100T weigh, ready to ride? How light can you get it, willing to spend some real money on this sled.
We have weighted a few SP 162 since we do quite a lot of carbon fiber. They have all been around 670 rtr. If your tree riding the hcr 42" stance is noticeably harder to roll over than the 40"....and now the 38" I put on.
As for weight saving there are several posts about loss by WKR with the carbon fiber on our m8 and the 1100 we did that is 610 rtr. The 1100 is a tank, tunnel, seat, and a belt drive away from roughly 100lbs.
-10 lbs for battery $250, battery relocate 1lb free
-16lbs for exhaust $200
-18lbs for carbon hood/cold air intake $1500
-5lbs for seat $500
-15lbs for carbon tank $1800
-12lbs for carbon tunnel $3500
-15lbs for carbon skid $4000
-5-7lbs for front suspension $1000?
Other odds and ends like vented side panels, skis, 4 boogie wheels, etc is a couple more lbs. I will stop at the tank which would be around $4500 for 65lbs, and do a Big Chute kit for $2500. Pretty great sled for 7k in trinkets without labour if you are handy. 7k on a yami gets you a turbo for 280hp and no lightweight stuff.
As for weight saving there are several posts about loss by WKR with the carbon fiber on our m8 and the 1100 we did that is 610 rtr. The 1100 is a tank, tunnel, seat, and a belt drive away from roughly 100lbs.
-10 lbs for battery $250, battery relocate 1lb free
-16lbs for exhaust $200
-18lbs for carbon hood/cold air intake $1500
-5lbs for seat $500
-15lbs for carbon tank $1800
-12lbs for carbon tunnel $3500
-15lbs for carbon skid $4000
-5-7lbs for front suspension $1000?
Other odds and ends like vented side panels, skis, 4 boogie wheels, etc is a couple more lbs. I will stop at the tank which would be around $4500 for 65lbs, and do a Big Chute kit for $2500. Pretty great sled for 7k in trinkets without labour if you are handy. 7k on a yami gets you a turbo for 280hp and no lightweight stuff.
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V
Vi-PEC Powersports
Well-known member
at 6lbs on my hm turbo pro with our vipec standalone ecu at 3500 feet on pump gas, i am smoking the 1100t in any condition and yes on 1.5km lake race drag in 2 feet of snow also.....this being said, i am also a arctic cat dealer(polaris and yamaha too)and the 1100t is a great machine but when you have a well built 2 stroke sled, there is no way you can go back to 4 stroke, period. my 300hp standalone ecu nytro was a good power sled but man it was heavy!! so is the 1100t. it all goes back to your liking, driving habit.....
The last sentence says it all....comes down to driving habits. Like I've said for a year and a half, asking guys that haven't been riding 4s for years to hop on for half an hour and see what they think is not a fair shake. We've built plenty of good running 2s turbos and personally I would not go back to a 2s. Haven't had one for 5 years. And let's be honest does anyone buy any 4s and leave it completely stock? You buy knowing in some degree you will do added hp and some lightweight stuff.
You have to remember why there are so many 4s riders as there is now. Reliability. That, and speaking for guys that don't ride low elevation, like 90% of guys in the west, at 8000' there haven't been much for 2s turbos doing what big 4s have been doing for 8 years.
Having been on my 1100 with every stage of mod you can do all year (most consumer available and some not) and same goes for race and pump gas m8's we built, I wouldn't trade my 1100 for anything, let alone a 2s. Here's the scenario I give to guys....7k to turbo your M8 or 7k to be roughly the same weight as a TM8 and have 275hp at elevation. That on the hill is not close, and there are only a handfull of guys that can even have an educated opinion on that comparison.
All that being said I can't convince my partner he should be on a 4s
. It's not for everyone.
You have to remember why there are so many 4s riders as there is now. Reliability. That, and speaking for guys that don't ride low elevation, like 90% of guys in the west, at 8000' there haven't been much for 2s turbos doing what big 4s have been doing for 8 years.
Having been on my 1100 with every stage of mod you can do all year (most consumer available and some not) and same goes for race and pump gas m8's we built, I wouldn't trade my 1100 for anything, let alone a 2s. Here's the scenario I give to guys....7k to turbo your M8 or 7k to be roughly the same weight as a TM8 and have 275hp at elevation. That on the hill is not close, and there are only a handfull of guys that can even have an educated opinion on that comparison.
All that being said I can't convince my partner he should be on a 4s
. It's not for everyone.
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4s torque
When your pulling a long steep hill in deep snow the 4s keeps its rpm, there for keep going to the top, not I better turn out.
When your pulling a long steep hill in deep snow the 4s keeps its rpm, there for keep going to the top, not I better turn out.
