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Question for guys running full engine shrouds

jrlastofthebreed

It seemed like a good idea at the time
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I have see folks running hard plastic shrouds around their engines and now Selkirk and their complete system and I have to ask does your engine ever get to hot? I run a blanket and a fan and there are days when the blankets off and the fans running. Is everyone running secondary heat exchangers?
 
I have a fan on both my 450fx and my 500exc. I have engine shrouds and covers for rads. Seldom is the fan not adequate to control temps. Prior to using Evans waterless coolant I could get a bit of boil over on a real long slow climb or real slow thru trees. Evans cured the boil over and I'm comfortable with 190-200 temps with spikes to 220-230. In addition to the engine coolant temp sensor, the fan on my exc is controlled by a temp sensor switch in the fins of the rad. It does not come on till the radiator is 195. I've had a couple times where I added snow over rads to get a little additional cooling but, I've never felt I needed additional cooling capacity on either bike.
 
For spring riding, the Selkirk shroud has upper panels that are easily removed. The heat exchanger helps a lot. The heated handlebars can act as additional heat exchanger. A good fan is a must. Even so, an eye on the temp gauge is needed on the warm days.
 
I just have a basic shroud (magic carpet/homemade) to keep the snow off and a separate shroud around behind carb to keep the snow that comes off the track from hitting carb/back of engine - the sides of engine are open. I find my bike runs pretty hot even on -20oC days so i don't want to fully shroud engine.

I would like to have some kind of a blanket in my backpack that i can pull out and put on both sides of the engine when we stop for lunch etc so as to help keep the heat in. Does anyone have any suggestions? It would need to be something that wouldn't melt or ignite on the hot engine...

Thanks
 
I should add to that that i don't have a gauge but the exhuast and casings seem pretty hot (even on those cold days).

An other reason for not fully shrouding is that it is a wr426 and so i need access to carb controls and i don't like the idea of a shroud trapping snow - with my set up the snow can easily fall/be cleaned out.

I do have a radiator blocker that i can slide in to shut off airflow through one rad if i fee the need. I might make a half length on so as just to cover half of one rad on cooler, faster days... once winter arrives...
 
Tunnel cooler really simplifies the heat.. you can keep the jacket and not worry about boiling because the temp will be constant with a jacket.

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I personally am constantly looking at my temperature gauge. These aren’t free but they’re not that expensive either for the info it gives you.
Get the middle one that plumbs into your coolant line and install it as close to your head as possible.
 
I had a look at that - does it run off it's own battery? I couldn't see that info on the listing. I should maybe go for the vapour if i'm going to pay for the temp guage anyway - what are your thoughts on that?
 
I'm not sure the vapor buys you anything if you aren't running wheels. The last one I put on a bike used power from the bike battery but that was a while ago.
 
interesting topic. If you run water heated bars they become a heat exchanger , On all 13 of our SX 450 from 2014 to 2020 models none have over heat issues ever. in fact powder riding temps hover around 150, on trail 180. highest temp picking through the woods with high rpm,s and no bike speed 220 ish . AlL have Thermobob with 180 degrees stat and engine covers .
 
@M5
You don't think that having a rev counter is a useful thing to have on the snow? I started with road bikes and still find myself wishing i had a rev counter but maybe they aren't really needed off road?
 
I run the vapor and acutally like it. Yes it has an internal battery and lasts a few years as it also draws power off the bike when its running. It has temps and you can set warning lights for a more visual reference when your riding hard and don't want to take your eyes off the trail to long. RPM is handy for tuning. Speedo and odometer are handy if you go through the time to rig it up but really unnecessary. It is cool to see how fast your going but who really cares lol
 
I personally am constantly looking at my temperature gauge. These aren’t free but they’re not that expensive either for the info it gives you.
Get the middle one that plumbs into your coolant line and install it as close to your head as possible.
What temps does one want?
1. Min before starting to ride?
2. Min when riding (if diff from above)?
3. Max?

Maybe this would differ a little between bikes (2stk vs 4stk, carb vs efi)? Mine is a 2001 WR426 (FCR-MX)
 
Michealmolach, I would suggest engine coolant temps around 200f. A 195 degree thermostat is good but you will need rad covers to get consistant temps. Boiling over can be an issue with traditional coolant on long climbs slow trees. I've had great success with the Evans waterless coolant as it does not boil over so no mysterious coolant loss. There are several good post here on the coolant temp issue. Hopefully, the search function works with this new setup.

The closer to 200f the better. Engine longevity, fuel economy, oil life and film strength benefit from 200 degree temps. Ideally your engine oil would be above 200. I have an oil temp and coolant temp gauges on one of my bikes. In any kind of snow with mostly covered engine oil temps run under 200. On long trail ride with little snow I have seen 250 on oil.

Regarding max temp, 220 won't hurt the engine unless it boils (it will) and then develops hot spots due to coolant loss. Again, some good discussion on prior posts. Good luck.
 

Heres one from a while back.
 
Carbed 4 stroke not as important temp wise besides getting maximum power... 180 to 200 is great but run Evan's.... no boiling and will run warmer.

2 stroke 130 is perfect...

Fuel injected ... really have to stay 180 or higher...

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Michealmolach, I would suggest engine coolant temps around 200f. A 195 degree thermostat is good but you will need rad covers to get consistant temps. Boiling over can be an issue with traditional coolant on long climbs slow trees. I've had great success with the Evans waterless coolant as it does not boil over so no mysterious coolant loss. There are several good post here on the coolant temp issue. Hopefully, the search function works with this new setup.

The closer to 200f the better. Engine longevity, fuel economy, oil life and film strength benefit from 200 degree temps. Ideally your engine oil would be above 200. I have an oil temp and coolant temp gauges on one of my bikes. In any kind of snow with mostly covered engine oil temps run under 200. On long trail ride with little snow I have seen 250 on oil.

Regarding max temp, 220 won't hurt the engine unless it boils (it will) and then develops hot spots due to coolant loss. Again, some good discussion on prior posts. Good luck.

I do a lot of reading on snowbikes, here and facebook and this is the first time I've seen someone mention oil temps. I've always wondered how our coolant temps compare to oil temps. The oil doesn't seem like it would get affected near as much as the coolant by power splashes. Props to you! Cool to hear.

Since you guys are talking about Evans, any of you used engine ice? I've been running it in the summers and seems to do well, spring I was still dealing with high coolant temps last season. Evans better for snowbiking than Engine Ice? I've seen 230 before snowbiking. Seems so hard to keep cool in the spring.
 
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