Question about the brake caliper 08 dragon

[600xc4me]

I removed the brake caliper on my sled when doing drop and roll, now when I reinstalled it, I loosened the bleeder, and tried to open up the caliper so I could get the pads back in. I did get it with time, but now the pads are constantly touching the rotor. You can still turn the jack shaft by hand, but it's not free turning. Will this adjust once I ride the sled a bit and use the brakes? Or will I just have problems with the rotor heating up? Is this fixable by just taking out the pads again, and getting the caliper open farther before reinstalling?

 

[mountainhorse]

The pads always slightly drag.

You should not have opened the bleeder valve... you will have to go thru the bleeding process now... Might as well flush fluid completely while you are at it.

You may have slightly cocked the piston in the bore... you should push the piston all the way back into the bore till it bottoms, install the brake caliper with pads, pump it up... making sure you follow the proper procedures and keep the master cyl topped off during the process.

This is a CRUCIAL safety system on your sled... If you are not familiar and experienced with braking system function and service... have someone that is do the work for you.

 

[guidoxpress]

^^^DITTO...

i bled mine when i had the system out..its a good time to get fresh fluid in there..its takes time to get it completely bled

 

[600xc4me]

Thanks guys. That's about what they are doing. Just dragging a bit. I didn't have much choice in loosening the bleeder. there was no other way I could get the pistons pushed in. I have already bled the system and put in new fluid. It's not my first working with brakes, but it was my first time on this sled. Brakes work good now, just wasn't sure if it was right that they were dragging at all times.

I would agree with getting someone who knows to do it, seeing as it is brakes we are talking about. But how am I supposed to learn anything if, when I come to something I'm not sure about, I just hand it off to someone who knows. I will rather ask and try to do it my self. I want to be able to do all that. Not just hand it off.

But thanks guys, if this is normal then my brakes are working as they should.

 

[volcano buster]

If you have worked on drum brakes on a car, you know that they have return springs to pull the shoes back away from the drum. On disc brakes, there is not a system to pull the pad back any further after being applied. Once you remove the pressure from the master cylinder, the piston and pad will return to a neutral state where ever the disc forces the pad to go. This will usually result in a little drag on certain parts of the disc as most discs after use are not perfectly uniform in thickness or alignment. When you have your pads out, you can work the brakes just a little bit to force the piston out past its usual engagement point, then use brake-clean and flush contaminants off the piston exterior. These contaminants can cause the piston to not want to return back to the neutral position as easily. Once this is done, work the piston back into its cave and reinstall the shoes, and test for pressure to the disc.

 

[MORSNO]

Instead of loosening the bleeder and possibly drawing air into the line, can't you just remove the cap on the master cylinder and squeeze in the piston (the fluid just goes into the reservoir and then draws back into the line when the piston returns to its natural position)? Less mess and no air in the lines.

 

[mountainhorse]

YOU MUST PERFORM A COMPLETE BRAKE BLEED PROCEDURE NOW.

If you don't have experience with that... find someone who does to do it... and learn from in the process... not on the forums here IMO.

 

[600xc4me]

YOU MUST PERFORM A COMPLETE BRAKE BLEED PROCEDURE NOW.

If you don't have experience with that... find someone who does to do it... and learn from in the process... not on the forums here IMO.

Which I did. My dad has lots done a lot of brakes in his day, with which I have helped quite a few times. I don't know how a shop would bleed brakes, but I did it how I have been taught, and it feels good. ALL I WANTED TO KNOW WAS IF THE CONSTANT DRAGGING WAS NORMAL ON A SLED. I hadn't ever noticed it up till now.

 

[mountainhorse]

Kewl!!

Yes.. the constant slight drag is normal... the same as a car, dirtbike, moutainbike disk brakes etc... I should drag lightly but not keep you from spinning the jackshaft easily.

I was just worried about your safety...trying to make sure you have a safe braking system. When you said you had to loosen the bleeder... that was kind of a tipoff that you haven't done this before and I was concerned.

I would push the piston all the way to the bottom and pump it up till firm to confirm that the piston is not cocked/jammed in the bore.

 

[600xc4me]

Kewl!!

Yes.. the constant slight drag is normal... the same as a car, dirtbike, moutainbike disk brakes etc... I should drag lightly but not keep you from spinning the jackshaft easily.

I was just worried about your safety...trying to make sure you have a safe braking system. When you said you had to loosen the bleeder... that was kind of a tipoff that you haven't done this before and I was concerned.

I would push the piston all the way to the bottom and pump it up till firm to confirm that the piston is not cocked/jammed in the bore.

Alright. THANK YOU.

I know and I appreciate that. I am aware that loosening the bleeder allows the system to suck in air. Which requires a full bleeding. But I could no how get the piston compressed with out loosening the bleeder. Once it was loose the oil came out as I pushed the piston in and it worked fairly easily. Maybe I just didn't have the right tools to get it pushed. But I will try push it in all the way now again just to make sure it's not cocked like your saying.