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QRS secondary high torque rollers install

I ordered and replaced the standard rollers with the high torque rollers. I watched several install videos but they only show the easy install vids. I dont know if anyone else has run into the problem i had but i want to share my experience with removing the spring pins to get the pivot stud out. Wow, i went thru 4 3/32 punches and couldnt get 1 out. took to a machine shop and with a cnc we still couldnt push them out. Ended up purchasing a $100 carbide drill but, drilled them out with cnc and took the bolts out.

So why! It seems during assembly at factory, the pivot studs were tightened to much, sinking the hole past alignment with the drilled holes on the secondary. WHen they pushed in the pins at factory, the pins were bent into the aluminum making them unremoveable. When i went to reassemble, i tightened toe pivot bolts and hacked them out 1/2 turn until i could get the punch to cleanly go through the hole. Installed the new pins with loctite and everything assembled easily.

Just wanted to share my experience with you guys incase you run into the same issue. Good luck.
 

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i've done a grand total of 3 and the trick for me was to use two punches. the typical length punch flexes too much so i used one i cut down to get the punch started then use the longer one to punch it completely out. i've also never had the pivot pin holes for the roll pins line up properly when torqued to the value. didn't worry about it and never had any issue plus on my '23 freeride, the pivot pin washers are nord-locks from the factory.
 
This is very common problem.

If you cant get the pins out with punch, dont panic. You can also break the pins:

1. Take T30 torx key with 1/2" ratchet
2. Hammer the T30 on the bolt
3. Twist slowly and strong left-right-left. Slowly the pin starts to give out and stretch.
4. Finally when the pin brakes you can get the rest out easily.

I never install the pins back, just add some medium loctite to the bolts and torque to correct spec, they wont come off. But remember to let glue to dry over night or atleast few hours in the warm.

But how to get pins out in the first place:

I have 4 punches, each has diameter of ~2mm. I have cut 3 of them shorter. One is really short one and rest a longer than each other. I have also made the tip of the punches FLAT.

1. Start with shortest punch, hammering the pin slightly until the pin starts moving,
2. Move to a longer punch and repeat until the pin is out.

One key thing is not to hammer too heavy on the pin. Take it easy and dont rush.

If the things go wrong, I dont recommend drilling but break the pins like I described in the beginning.
 
Wrong and wrong.

You must heat the area were pin is, powerful heatgun or smaller blowtorch, and you must heat it hot as hell. Then tap the pin out with 2.5mm high quality Mandrel (or what you call it) comes out much easier.

Wrong?

You are also gonna heat the pin so this isnt helping that much. If you can find 2.5mm punch, its the correct size, but hard to find from local stores. I found one to order but it was 70$ and cant justify as regular 2mm costs 3$ a piece and gets the job done.

I have changed +100 sets of rollers among the years and my style hasnt failed once.
 
Wrong?

You are also gonna heat the pin so this isnt helping that much. If you can find 2.5mm punch, its the correct size, but hard to find from local stores. I found one to order but it was 70$ and cant justify as regular 2mm costs 3$ a piece and gets the job done.

I have changed +100 sets of rollers among the years and my style hasnt failed once.
I have done 4 sets now and used a bit of heat each time, all 4 went smooth. I think because the aluminum expands faster it works great
 
I have done several,some move and some don’t.The punch at 3/32”of an inch doesn’t take much abuse.The ones that don’t want to move ,I take the bearing off and remove the clutch half .It gives you a straighter shot to drive the pin out.Then the pin comes out.wonder why they went from a cir clip to the pin in the bolt.Just my experience
 
Thanks all. I think i made a mistake by backing out the bolt 1/2 turn to get the holes aligned and pins back in. I didnt torque and dont know the spec, however i did apply heavy medium loctite to bolt and pin.
 
Thanks all. I think i made a mistake by backing out the bolt 1/2 turn to get the holes aligned and pins back in. I didnt torque and dont know the spec, however i did apply heavy medium loctite to bolt and pin.
the G5 service manual has the torque at 17 newton meters or around 12.5 ft/lbs but it's common for the holes not to line up at the torque spec.
 
Try it. It works. Done it many times. Its not a theory it's facts.

I get then pins out my way under 2 minutes both. Zero problems. Some pins are tight, some are loose, doesnt matter. 100% success rate and believe me we have tried dozens of ways among the years and this is the fastest and most reliable way.
 
I bent a punch for the first time doing a buddy's sled a few weeks ago. I'm gonna cut that bad boy down. Thanks for the tip Driver. Also, to confirm Driver's (solid) guidance, my dealer used to just break the pins off and replace with the older circlip version. Not sure if the current models are machined for the circlip version, but I suspect they are.
 
I bent a punch for the first time doing a buddy's sled a few weeks ago. I'm gonna cut that bad boy down. Thanks for the tip Driver. Also, to confirm Driver's (solid) guidance, my dealer used to just break the pins off and replace with the older circlip version. Not sure if the current models are machined for the circlip version, but I suspect they are.

Yeah you might bend the punch tool no matter how good quality the tool is or how precise the diameter is.

I would say that there really is no need for the pin or either for the circlip. Medium thread lock and nord-lock washers will do the thing.
 
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