A friend of mine bought an M7T with a pure logic controller. Total hack job on entire install. His control box has a 1/8 nipple coming directly from the center of the box and also a loose end hose coming up the steering column. To top it off there is a stripped end red wire that's part of the control box harness pointing right at the box as well. We're not sure where the wire or the hose goes. Any one with some insight??
pure logic box. very frustrated!
- Thread starter houstonhomer
- Start date
sorry guys family emergency, will check back later. Thanks!
I got a PC5 ill sell that will fix your problems
why are you selling it. Is it compatable with dual injectors
Has anyone heard of a small hose being connected to a pure logic box?? ANYONE!!!
D
dubbs
Member
Ya man! that's you're boost reference line. The box needs to see boost if you are making it to add fuel accordingly... Plug er back in and solder or butt splice that wire back together if it seems to be the same wire... You should prob follow all the wires from the controller and make sure they are plugged into the injectors correctly ect... Also make sure your box is grounded.. Sounds like that red wire might be your power wire. Not sure just a guess.
Google up pure logic controller or OVS and you should be able to find a wiring diagram.
Google up pure logic controller or OVS and you should be able to find a wiring diagram.
I thought I posted several hours ago, but I must not have submitted my reply! lol
Anyways, the black hose just connects to the nub on the control box, can't sodier it, just use some silicone. Mine has fallen off a couple of times, I just put it back on, I haven't siliconed it.
The wire, is it stripped? or disconnected? If stripped, just tape er up, if disconnected, see where it goes, is there a red wire coming off the box? there should be, if not, then the wire got pulled out and you'll need a new box. Give OVS a call, and he'll probably give you a discount on a new one if you send your old one in, he did on mine.
Here is their site, and instructions for purelogic. Sorry, they used to have
installation instructions on line but I can't find it anymore.These are more operating instructions and tuning tips, but your friend should familiarize himself with it...good luck!
http://ogdenvalleysports.com/modes_28.html
http://ogdenvalleysports.com/modes_28.html
http://ogdenvalleysports.com/tuning_57.html
Here is a read as well:
Instuctions:
1. Open hood and locate fuel rail, unplug the factor plugs off of injectors. (Note: On 2005 and older models) Plug the Pure Logic connectors on to the injectors(green on the pto and yellow on the mag), plug the factory injector plugs onto the Pure Logic plugs (matching colors green with green and yellow with yellow)
Note: If your snowmobile is a 2006 model you may see the Pure Logic box showing a solid green light and flashing a red light, the sled sounds like it's running on one cylinder, which means the box is not seeing an injector signal from one cylinder. What we found is that Arctic Cat switched is signal wire on just the PTO side for 2006. The easiest way to correct the problem is it switch the wires in the PTO side (Arctic Cat connector)
Note: If your snowmobile is a 2007 or 2008 the wire in both (Arctic Cat connectors) will need to be switched around.
Note: Looking at the front of the connector use a small pick tool, and gently pry up on the pins locking device, at the same time pulling on the corresponding wire.
2. Locate the blue connector on the air temp sensor, unplug the blue connector and plug into the white connector on the Pure Logic box.
3. Ground the black wire to a clean chassis ground.
4. The white wire is for nitrous, and is to be hook up between the activation switch and the solinode.
5. Find a mounting location for the Pure Logic box away from heat and moisture.
6. Use wire ties and secure all wires.
7. Start the snowmobile.
8.You should have scrolling green lights, followed by a solid green light. This insures all connections are good.
Trouble Shooting
If you do not see the LED lights scroll or go solid green light please check all connections. If the motor seems like it is running on one cylinder please tech lines 801-940-7777 or 801-745-3833.
1. Check your ground wire to insure that you have a good ground.
2. Check all connections and make sure the pins are properly seated and making good contact.
3. Make sure no wires have become loose, or have be rubbed threw.
Modes:
Mode 1- Green - Cruise fuel adjustment
Similar to adjusting pilot jet and mixture screw on carburetor. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 2 - Yellow - Acceleration fuel adjustment
Similar to raising or lowering the needle on carburetor vehicles. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 3 - Red - Main fuel jet or full throttle adjustment.
Similar to changing main jet on carburetor vehicles. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 4 - Green/Blue - Boost or nitrous adjustment
This function controls the amount of fuel added for boost nitrous applications. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 5 - Yellow/Blue - Amount of fuel to be pulled
TUNE THIS MODE WITH CAUTION! This functions is the pull fuel mode. It will do a strait fuel pull across the map, Increasing the light value will lean, decreasing the light value will richen.
Mode 6 - Red/Blue - Full Throttle RPM switch point adjustment
This function is the RPM switch point for when the full throttle fuel addition engages.
Adjustment is necessary to mostly match different pipes or big bore kits which require different fuel needs. Decreasing the light value will cause the full throttle fuel to engage at a lower RPM. Increasing the light value will increase the RPM it engages.
hopfully this helps..
Anyways, the black hose just connects to the nub on the control box, can't sodier it, just use some silicone. Mine has fallen off a couple of times, I just put it back on, I haven't siliconed it.
The wire, is it stripped? or disconnected? If stripped, just tape er up, if disconnected, see where it goes, is there a red wire coming off the box? there should be, if not, then the wire got pulled out and you'll need a new box. Give OVS a call, and he'll probably give you a discount on a new one if you send your old one in, he did on mine.
Here is their site, and instructions for purelogic. Sorry, they used to have
installation instructions on line but I can't find it anymore.These are more operating instructions and tuning tips, but your friend should familiarize himself with it...good luck!
http://ogdenvalleysports.com/modes_28.html
http://ogdenvalleysports.com/modes_28.html
http://ogdenvalleysports.com/tuning_57.html
Here is a read as well:
Instuctions:
1. Open hood and locate fuel rail, unplug the factor plugs off of injectors. (Note: On 2005 and older models) Plug the Pure Logic connectors on to the injectors(green on the pto and yellow on the mag), plug the factory injector plugs onto the Pure Logic plugs (matching colors green with green and yellow with yellow)
Note: If your snowmobile is a 2006 model you may see the Pure Logic box showing a solid green light and flashing a red light, the sled sounds like it's running on one cylinder, which means the box is not seeing an injector signal from one cylinder. What we found is that Arctic Cat switched is signal wire on just the PTO side for 2006. The easiest way to correct the problem is it switch the wires in the PTO side (Arctic Cat connector)
Note: If your snowmobile is a 2007 or 2008 the wire in both (Arctic Cat connectors) will need to be switched around.
Note: Looking at the front of the connector use a small pick tool, and gently pry up on the pins locking device, at the same time pulling on the corresponding wire.
2. Locate the blue connector on the air temp sensor, unplug the blue connector and plug into the white connector on the Pure Logic box.
3. Ground the black wire to a clean chassis ground.
4. The white wire is for nitrous, and is to be hook up between the activation switch and the solinode.
5. Find a mounting location for the Pure Logic box away from heat and moisture.
6. Use wire ties and secure all wires.
7. Start the snowmobile.
8.You should have scrolling green lights, followed by a solid green light. This insures all connections are good.
Trouble Shooting
If you do not see the LED lights scroll or go solid green light please check all connections. If the motor seems like it is running on one cylinder please tech lines 801-940-7777 or 801-745-3833.
1. Check your ground wire to insure that you have a good ground.
2. Check all connections and make sure the pins are properly seated and making good contact.
3. Make sure no wires have become loose, or have be rubbed threw.
Modes:
Mode 1- Green - Cruise fuel adjustment
Similar to adjusting pilot jet and mixture screw on carburetor. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 2 - Yellow - Acceleration fuel adjustment
Similar to raising or lowering the needle on carburetor vehicles. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 3 - Red - Main fuel jet or full throttle adjustment.
Similar to changing main jet on carburetor vehicles. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 4 - Green/Blue - Boost or nitrous adjustment
This function controls the amount of fuel added for boost nitrous applications. Decreasing the light value will add a lower amount of fuel. Increasing the light value will add more fuel.
Mode 5 - Yellow/Blue - Amount of fuel to be pulled
TUNE THIS MODE WITH CAUTION! This functions is the pull fuel mode. It will do a strait fuel pull across the map, Increasing the light value will lean, decreasing the light value will richen.
Mode 6 - Red/Blue - Full Throttle RPM switch point adjustment
This function is the RPM switch point for when the full throttle fuel addition engages.
Adjustment is necessary to mostly match different pipes or big bore kits which require different fuel needs. Decreasing the light value will cause the full throttle fuel to engage at a lower RPM. Increasing the light value will increase the RPM it engages.
hopfully this helps..
Thanks a million for the info. We got everything hooked up properly, I think, and went riding yesterday. His sled ran good until the diamond drive piled up. That was a hard tow out!
