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purchased used 2012 pro rmk 800

I recently purchased a 2012 pro rmk 800 with 890 miles on it. The guy I bought it from was responsible for all the miles. He said he has done no maintenance on the sled and it has ran great for him. I checked the vin at the dealer and it was clean. I have had horrible luck with every sled I have owned. What are some things I should look for and check to make sure my first trip out west with this sled will not be a disaster. I have been reading a lot about these pros and from what I understand I have a 50/50 shot with this engine blowing up. I just want to make sure I have done everything in my power to deter this from happening. Any information would be greatly appreciated.:face-icon-small-hap
 
check for any rubbed wires. Grease suspension. Check chaincase oil.Make sure you have an extra set of plugs. My wife's 12 will eat a set or two of plugs, every year, and start cutting out on mid to top. Ours has been flawless but you either get lucky or you don't. I have buddies that have 12's and been flawless. My one buddy is riding his again this year. If it blows up he is going to want to off himself because he just spent $6000 because his harley blew up. Good luck with yours.
 
Just go through standardized check posted in "Increase your IQ" in IQ forum. Everything stated there is good for Pro-Ride as well. I only doubt (big time) plugging VES. Summary:
1. Check TPS (its almoust always off), adjust throttle lever play (you might miss up to 10% of your top end RPM if you do not adjust it). Make sure oil pimp lever is in proper position. Then decide - do you want crank up the oil pump or not (go read forum for pro and contra opinions).
2. Check clutches (clean, look for wear signs). Change primary spring every season, put delrin washer in secondary. Balance primary clutch!!! (super important)
3. Align clutches (super important!!!), adjust belt to sheave clearance, adjust belt deflection
4. Decide do you want instaling "the fix kit" or not. (I put it on every 2007+ 800 Poo i own)
5. Decide do you want to go with 28$ fix
6. Highly recommend tunnel to bulk head joint stiffeners - not cheap, but very good.
The rest is just ordinary maintenance - chaincase oil, skiis alignment, track tension, etc.
If you need Shop Manual for it, I can post it.
All the best :)
 
Add a leak down test, performed by a competent mechanic. It will give you valuable info on the state of the engine.
Does it have remaining warranty? Did the previous owner transfer the warranty to you?
 
Add a leak down test, performed by a competent mechanic. It will give you valuable info on the state of the engine.
Does it have remaining warranty? Did the previous owner transfer the warranty to you?

What is leak down test?
 
A "Leak Down Test" is done to test the ring sealing, crank seals and labyrinth seals by putting the piston at bdc and applying a set air pressure to each cylinder to check for pressure drop "leakage". This is performed on both cylinders.
 
I recently purchased a 2012 pro rmk 800 with 890 miles on it. The guy I bought it from was responsible for all the miles. He said he has done no maintenance on the sled and it has ran great for him. I checked the vin at the dealer and it was clean. I have had horrible luck with every sled I have owned. What are some things I should look for and check to make sure my first trip out west with this sled will not be a disaster. I have been reading a lot about these pros and from what I understand I have a 50/50 shot with this engine blowing up. I just want to make sure I have done everything in my power to deter this from happening. Any information would be greatly appreciated.:face-icon-small-hap

Sell it!
 
I'm betting that the clutch weight bushings are shot and need to be replaced.

x2

those clutches go thru a set every 1000 miles but most just run them longer because the don't notice the difference.

if i recall, the 11-12 model years had some bad clutches that ended up with cracked sheaves. this happened on a '12 that a friend bought with 1,500 miles. i noticed the crack and tried to pull the clutch with poor results. it had warranty and i took it to the dealer who proceeded to wreck the crank and charge up a $2,500 bill to the warranty.

personally, i'd look it over and pull the clutch. then, i'd send it in for a rebuild/balance to a qualified shop or person. i've used SLP with good results.
 
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