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Pulling motor out....

S

sks rider

Member
Sometime this season i may pull the motor to replace the pull cord and the motor mounts(just in case,I dont know if theyre bad)
So what all is involved and is it a total pita? I dont have to pull the clutch again right? Ive pulled motors on older sleds in just a few hours before.. But looks more complicated..
 
It is pretty labor intensive. I have pulled it with and without removing the clutch and it works either way, as long as you DON'T USE THE CLUTCH FOR LIFTING you shouldn't need to remove it. It just takes time and patience and a lot of grunting and busted knuckles. Coolant hoses are my worst nightmare, I did not have fun with them at all. A lot of wires to deal with, don't stress the connections.

Take your time and you should do fine!
 
I don't think you can pull the engine without removing the clutch if you have an SLP torque arm can you?
 
I don't think you can pull the engine without removing the clutch if you have an SLP torque arm can you?

your correct, you have to unbolt the SLP torque arm before the motor will budge, and you have to hav e the clutch off to get to the bolts..

Why wouldn't you remove the clutches?

if you dont need to pull the clutch, dont....every time you remove the clutch bolt and install it again, you slowly stretch the clutch bolt from repeated removal
 
well dangit. I totally forgot about the SLP Torque arm. I JUST installed it too.

So should i be stressing about the mounts and pull cord or should i just ride it and see what happens? The reason im worried about the mounts is because the intake boots were cracked. So im worried that the motor mounts may be as well...

Ive got the clutch off right now as its with indydan....
 
The intake boots cracking is due to high radiant heat coming off of the exhaust Y-pipe!
get your y_pipe ceramic coated and replace the boots!

Don't get me wrong im not saying you shouldn't check those motor mounts... just tellin ya why the boots are cracked! Braaap!
 
I've got a 900 fusion and an slp torque arm and have pulled the engine both with and without 1st removing the clutch. It's obviously easier with the clutch removed but can easilly be accomplished with the clutch in place. It's well documented within the manual. A wrench or appropriate extensions will facilitate removal of the front motor mount bolts on the PTO side. I used a pry bar to hold the torque arm bolt (make sure you put pressure against the nut vice the engine and with a little patience you can get it).

I pulled it in about an hour solo the last time but it was quite a bit longer than that the first time and I had help.

Good luck!
 
The intake boots cracking is due to high radiant heat coming off of the exhaust Y-pipe!
get your y_pipe ceramic coated and replace the boots!

Don't get me wrong im not saying you shouldn't check those motor mounts... just tellin ya why the boots are cracked! Braaap!
Thanks. Ill have to look into that. I just replaced the boots so theyre ok for now. :)
 
this is something i did 2 seasons ago and my throttle body boots still look brandnew!!

take some heat tape (same as the stuff guys use on the chaincase covers or under hood) and tear off about 4 strips that are 5-6" long....put the heat tape OVER the top of the throttle body boots (use 2 layers), this will reflect the heat coming from the y-pipe and it will elminate the boots cracking...never had an issue since i did it on my sleds ;)
 
this is something i did 2 seasons ago and my throttle body boots still look brandnew!!

take some heat tape (same as the stuff guys use on the chaincase covers or under hood) and tear off about 4 strips that are 5-6" long....put the heat tape OVER the top of the throttle body boots (use 2 layers), this will reflect the heat coming from the y-pipe and it will elminate the boots cracking...never had an issue since i did it on my sleds ;)

You beat me to it but I was trying to dig up some pictures I had taken of this tip, imagine that, can't find them. It is a really good idea to use the heat tape, most of us have removed the hood carpet/foam as well and replaced it with heat tape
IMG_0269.jpg
 
^^great minds think alike ghost, lol.

this is the only thing i never have taken a pic of yet, lol...so one of these days i will...haha
 
Oh I have the pictures somewhere, but wouldn't you know its not on the computer I bought during this little 'vacation' imagine that! Nor is it in any of my online albums.
 
I wrapped them just like that and then used another piece long enough to cover both sides and act as a little heat shelf. I used a long strip with the backing left on, stripped the about 3 inches of backing away from both ends, then I laid it across both boots and secure the sides. The paper backing added some support and an extra barrier.
 
the 900 bulkhead does not have any adjustment for clutch alignment, they are on or off from the factory

with that being said it doesnt mean you cant make your clutch alignment perfect, it is just accomplished in other ways, i have moved on from the 900's(i still own one, but its for sale :face-icon-small-win), hopefully mtnhorse chimes in on this thread

heat tape the new boots, keyword NEW
and
invest in some compfusion front motor mounts and the updated 06 rear motor mounts

two of the best things i ever did^^^
 
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the 900 bulkhead does not have any adjustment for clutch alignment, they are on or off from the factory

with that being said it doesnt mean you cant make your clutch alignment perfect, it is just accomplished in other ways, i have moved on from the 900's(i still own one, but its for sale :face-icon-small-win), hopefully mtnhorse chimes in on this thread

heat tape the new boots, keyword NEW
and
invest in some compfusion front motor mounts and the updated 06 rear motor mounts

two of the best things i ever did^^^
When you say the rear mounts are you talking about the polaris parts or the hi-perf parts?
 
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