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Pulling chords out of belt & Black marks

Ken Climb

Well-known member
Premium Member
Last year I put 1,000 FRIGG"N FUN miles on my stock 2013 163 pro. I have good venting but within 200miles my belt will start pulling the chord out, and always the outside.
My primary is always black from the bottom and out a couple inches on both sides. I've had my clutches inspected and everything looks good, and always keep them clean.

It seems to shift good until it gets really warm after some heavy load up at elevation (6,000') goes down to 7,700rpm. (I'm not sure if it's clutch related or the timing detune when it get's to warm. ($28 fix)?

I usually trim the chord and singe it, but once it pulls out the first time, every ride after it will pull out again......So I buy a NEW belt $$ouch! I'm now on my 5th.

I could probably keep trimming and running these belts every ride, but after it pulls the chord and trimmed...it's just not the same as a new belt.

Stock motor mounts are good and I've just added and SLP torque link, so I'll keep you posted.
 
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belt

Have you check for loose motor mounts and also check the alignment i have 850 miles on my original belt and it looks good. I also installed the $28 fix which was about $90 can bucks will know after this week end if it helps. what weights are you running?
 
Mine was doing the same thing so this year i cleaned my drive clutch put on a torque arm from slp and so far it has been good. Its definitely a piss off buying a new belt every 200 miles. Also get your alignment checked.
 
I noticed I pulled a cord on my turbo within 70 miles, I am guessing the power probably was the cause. I guess you probably need to do the 20 mile easy break in with a turbo.
I am debating just running this belt with the pulled cord. Any draw backs? will it last very long, or perform like its suppose to? These belts suck when they have less then 20 miles on them rpm is all over the place. 20-30 miles is dang near a full day of riding to me so hate to waste a day breaking in a new belt:face-icon-small-dis
 
Also check the four engine strap bolts,these have backed out on a few sleds last year.When removed there was no evidence of locktite on bolt.The forward PTO side bolt is usually the culprit.A little hard to see and tighten but worth checking.Try lifting up on your primary if the bolt is really loose or has completely fallen out you will see movement.

Hope this helps
 
Last year I put 1,000 FRIGG"N FUN miles on my stock 2013 163 pro. I have good venting but within 200miles my belt will start pulling the chord out, and always the outside.
My primary is always black from the bottom and out a couple inches on both sides. I've had my clutches inspected and everything looks good, and always keep them clean.

It seems to shift good until it gets really warm after some heavy load up at elevation (6,000') goes down to 7,700rpm. (I'm not sure if it's clutch related or the timing detune when it get's to warm. ($28 fix)?

I usually trim the chord and singe it, but once it pulls out the first time, every ride after it will pull out again......So I buy a NEW belt $$ouch! I'm now on my 5th.

I could probably keep trimming and running these belts every ride, but after it pulls the chord and trimmed...it's just not the same as a new belt.

Stock motor mounts are good and I've just added and SLP torque link, so I'll keep you posted.


I had the same problems last year, never blew a belt but did pull some chords and my belts lost performance by 300 miles. I checked alignment, dealer checked alignment and replaced motor mounts and added the slp torque arm (even warrantied some belts:face-icon-small-hap) didn't make much difference.
This year I sent both clutches to Indy Dan for balancing, machining and he shimmed the spider for the right belt clearance. Hope it makes a difference, if not gearing down will be my next step.
 
what belt you running ? did you get new clutch springs this year primary and secondary ?
after 1000-1200 miles clutch parts have some pretty good wear you may need to replace some parts
i recomend taking it apart and inpsecting it to see whats going on
i also recomend a clutch kit while your in there its money well spent if you need to replace parts anyway and more cost effective than new belts

try roosterbuilt or carls both work well

good luck let it snow
 
150 break-in miles on my 14 and took a look at my belt and sure enough cord is already coming out??? always the outside cord!!!! WTF???
 
I attribute the pulling of outside cords to them changing the movable sheave angle. I get my sheaves recut when they re-balance and shim the clutches. Problem solved! Good luck with whatever you decide.
 
Keep an eye out for any water or snow getting in there....that will junk a belt real fast. Vents on the clutch side are always suspect, make sure they have the super fine mesh, basically so no fine dust (or air?) can get in there. Then theres the footwells we all kick snow into.
 
IMO (just like any clutching advise lol) if I was pulling the outside cord, leaving rubber on the lower part of you primary and alignment was good, I would either gear down a ton or change my helix to a straight angle and maybe 20 lbs less start pressure on the secondary spring.
 
Ken are you running the clutch stock as delivered? Where do you unload at? Do you ride at 6000ft most of the time?
 
I unload usually down at 3,500' or so. Then usually play in the 6,000' range.
It's done this from new. Clutch's are aligned clean and in good condition. Motor mounts good.
I'm hoping this slp torque link I installed will help.
 
Blew a belt in 75 miles. Clutches are clean etc. I need to take it in and make sure the clutches are aligned. My 13 would pull strings in 250-300 miles. I wish a person could gear these things down with out buy a c3 drive or some other aftermarket set up.
 
I seen kurt's polaris, out of montana, have a regear kit for them when we were at the boise show. Seems like it was the better part of a 500 bill. Seems like it was in the 2.42 area.
 
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