PTO side torque "snubber", thoughts please

[4Z]

Picked up this ride summer of 2010 with just under 400 miles on it. So, being in it's third season I didn't expect the issues I am having with the PTO plate mounting. In AC's infinite wisdom, they decided to use nutserts instead of studs (guess they figured it out for later years). The darn nutserts started self destructing, playing havoc with clutching until I figured out what the heck was going on. So, being mid/late season, the real fix would mean more work than I have time for. So, I just "bucked" them by running a bolt through them and running a nut onto the bolt from the other side and "squishing" the nutsert to make it bite the bulkhead again. The hope is that they will hold for rest of the season. If anyone has tried this before, please share...

On to the snubber. Have been toying this idea around for a while and am thinking about pulling the trigger. Using an old SLP mag side snubber from one of my old Polaris sleds, hope this will do the trick. (the stock PTO snubber on older Polaris sleds is basically the same thing).

There is two threaded bosses in the upper crank case half on the back side of the motor. Would work perfect for a torque stop snubber bracket. (don't know if the later model motors have these). The only issue with doing this is that I feel the cooler (which the rubber snubber will be contacting under load) might be on the thin side and require a fish plate welded on to spread out the load. Let me know if anyone has gone down this road before....

Why do this? Well, one of the things that Polaris had going well for them in the motor mounting department IMO was using this type of torque stop. Use in front and behind the PTO side of the motor in-line with the crank worked very well on all my mods over the years. Why not give it a try here?

 

[JRider]

I would think you could get away with bonding a plate to the heat exchanger instead of welding it. 3M 5200 adhesive would do it or JB weld it. I like the idea but I would definitely add a plate before running it on the exchanger

 

[mr p-j]

i was thinking the same thing... don´t like the idea of having the rubber against the heat exchanger.
but whit a plate glued or welded between the exchanger and the stoper i think it´s a good idea!

 

[Hardass]

Boy you old guys come up with every thing

 

[4Z]

Boy you old guys come up with every thing

LMAO!! That's right Larry!!

Thanks guys. Appreciate your opinion greatly. Never thought good old JB Weld. Wonder how the heat cycling would effect the 3M, guess as long as the fish plate was the same material (T-5350 assume) should stay in place. Or better yet, in addition use some angle and pop a couple rivets in the side flange (part that diamond drive bolts to), that should help hold it in place.

Thoughts?

BTW, I did the M1000 mount on the bottom front of the motor, the one that clamps to the swaybar tube. I think that actually might have made this worse or shifted the forces to allow the motor to "rotate" back under load? I sure like in-line with the crank for this purpose. Seems like motor mounting has to be a symphony will all the mounting points, right now mine seem to be out of "tune" LOL.


From iPhone in porcelain library

 

[Hardass]

I used 1/4 alum strap on my steering fix (you know where it cracks ) i actually welde the correct angle for the post to sit on and the heat exchange. I did not want to do any welding so i jb welded it and boy its strong Mind you my deal was cracked all the way through cheap easy fix. i would jb weld a peice of 14 there where the bumper hits i bet your good. By the way how did you maunt that other front mount? to the bottom of the motor or the front where the other one goes? are you clutches aligned? and to what spec?

 

[minet]

hey ,, now there is one i havent seen before,,

kudos

looks like i will be welding in a plate and adding one of those this summer

 

[4Z]

I used 1/4 alum strap on my steering fix (you know where it cracks ) i actually welde the correct angle for the post to sit on and the heat exchange. I did not want to do any welding so i jb welded it and boy its strong Mind you my deal was cracked all the way through cheap easy fix. i would jb weld a peice of 14 there where the bumper hits i bet your good. By the way how did you maunt that other front mount? to the bottom of the motor or the front where the other one goes? are you clutches aligned? and to what spec?

Larry..... "are my clutches aligned?" I didn't know you have to make sure they are aligned.

If you do a search for "extra mount" or "m1000 extra mount" you will see what folks are doing. It is using the stock front, mag side arm and mounting it to the bottom PTO side and clamping to the tube.


From iPhone in porcelain library

 

[Hardass]

Ya i know that I'm not one of the ones that are having a issue. The motor mounts on the side can be pressed in further in each location to change things as far as alignment as well .i was wondering if you were setting offset at 1.507 or bigger.

 

[4Z]

Well, put in a 1/4" plate in tonight with some JB weld. This should be a good test to see how that works in this application. Must be honest, JB is usually a field type repair for me when proper methods are not a good option. But, I guess this falls under that application. Since I don't feel like pulling the motor and welding one in. Thanks guys for all the input....

 

[Hardass]

If you welded one on it would probably just crack out

 

[duffman]

I put a mag side torque stop on my 2010 m8, but I went in front of the engine (under the oil bottle). Everything else being equal, I had cooler belt temps with the torque stop. Make sure you check the upper rear mag side factory mount, if your engine is moving around it is probably toast.

 

[Team Pigeon]

Fellas, wicked post. What's the snubber part number you used for the parts lady...

 

[4Z]

Fellas, wicked post. What's the snubber part number you used for the parts lady...

I would just call SLP and ask them for a replacement bumper for this assembly:

SLP

 

[4Z]

After testing this over the weekend, happy to say that it worked very well for me. I gave it about .090" clearance. Judging from the witness marks on the .25" plate glued on the bulkhead heat exchanger it might be just about perfect.

Will keep an eye on her the rest of the season.

On to the mag side. The stock snubber stops the forward movement but the motor wants to torque forward and down. About a 35-45* angle. I think a second one can be added to the sway bar tube.....