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Pros and cons all brands?

H

highmarkedu

Member
New to snowbikes and wondering which brand suits best for mountainhorse kits. Lets not turn this into brand loyal biased opinions just wondering if one is suited better for snow than another mainly lookn at 450s
 
Yamaha wr450 pros, lights, and power to run hand warmers, bullet proof engines, wide ratio tranny nice for trail riding

cons, wide ratio tranny bad for off trail, no carb heater
 
Ktm500

Just picked up a KTM500 ecw, putting the st mountain horse on it this week. Hoping that will work good. This is all new to me so not sure what other little things I should do and watch for.... Find out I guess.
 
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just watch it

watch for stumps in the spring slush
watch for running outa gas in spring snow
watch for the temptation to put your foot down
watch for places to unload where you can ride right off trail
watch for sno bike riding partners who will ride in marginal conditions
watch for loose nuts an' bolts and oil level with lots of hard riding and rev'
watch for girls
 
Welcome aboard, you will love it!! I am riding tomorrow sunday, you in?

Darn I am working :face-icon-small-sad

Did you get the bike problem fixed ???

Chris may be up with my bike (Skagway summit) tomorow trying it out.

Looks like they had a dump yesterday up at the pass should be good.

Hans is always in for a ride give him a call his 530 does well.

cheers........
 
I own an 05 ktm 450 exc bored out to 540. Love the way it handles on dirt and snow. The only thing I've encountered as far as performance with my 2013 mh kit is the air intake because I have a carbed bike. Sometimes after long climbs at high revs, the bike will want to stall when I let off the throttle. I think that an EFI bike would not have the same issues. I've removed the airbox and am runnning two prefilters without any foam filter. I'd love to try a FI bike to see the diff. To all the EFI'ers, is this the case, or is it a case of the grass is greener?
 
I own an 05 ktm 450 exc bored out to 540. Love the way it handles on dirt and snow. The only thing I've encountered as far as performance with my 2013 mh kit is the air intake because I have a carbed bike. Sometimes after long climbs at high revs, the bike will want to stall when I let off the throttle. I think that an EFI bike would not have the same issues. I've removed the airbox and am runnning two prefilters without any foam filter. I'd love to try a FI bike to see the diff. To all the EFI'ers, is this the case, or is it a case of the grass is greener?

The carb bike produces more power than the EFI bike. There are many carbed bikes kicking butt out there. The Timbersled Pro Rider is abord a KTM 450 carb bike and is hard to match. Just get a KTM Carb heater for $69.95 and go tear it up. Carb ice is not an issue. Any bike with electricity, especially the KTM's, is about a ten minute job. I just installed another one for a friend. Also keep in mind. The EFI bikes are not able to tune, "jet" for altitude. They compensate for temperature only. When they are reading "cold" temps on the temp sensor, they "add fuel" to compensate. That compounds the situation making for a super "over fueling" condition. A programmer is required to make adjustments. With a carb, you simple jet it and forget it. No over-fueling issues. They both are able to tune and run awesome. Don't let a "carb" discourage you is my point. That KTM 450 carbed motor is a real performer!
 
jet'n along

up side to efi is attempt to make tuning more idtiot pruff, and it works great now on my sleds, 15 years ago it was problematic for cat dealers

issue with bikes is efi appears to me to be not quite yet as fool pruff as the sleds.


My other long time efi complaint is the automobile refugee carb body they stick on the EFI sleds and now the bikes. You control air flow with a BUTTERFLY , problem is air flow in butterfly setups mainly happens from 1/4 throttle to 2/3 throttle as best, the last 1/3 to 1/4 turn of the butterfly flapper adds almost no significant air flow, hence the flat feeling top end and trigger liike power delivery in low mid range, all the bike companies have struggled with this issue. Sled EFI the same, but lots of rider have just gotten used to this piss poor setup.

Rode an F7 at West Expo years back with EFI in a flat slide carb body a young guy had made and trying to promote, whoa, terrific throttle response and top end coming out it ears. Kid could never get anyone interested.......too bad. Bike and sled efi still second rate but getting more reliable at least.
 
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The carb bike produces more power than the EFI bike. There are many carbed bikes kicking butt out there. The Timbersled Pro Rider is abord a KTM 450 carb bike and is hard to match. Just get a KTM Carb heater for $69.95 and go tear it up. Carb ice is not an issue. Any bike with electricity, especially the KTM's, is about a ten minute job. I just installed another one for a friend. Also keep in mind. The EFI bikes are not able to tune, "jet" for altitude. They compensate for temperature only. When they are reading "cold" temps on the temp sensor, they "add fuel" to compensate. That compounds the situation making for a super "over fueling" condition. A programmer is required to make adjustments. With a carb, you simple jet it and forget it. No over-fueling issues. They both are able to tune and run awesome. Don't let a "carb" discourage you is my point. That KTM 450 carbed motor is a real performer!

Thanks for the input. Any advice from anyone concerning the issue of after long wide open throttle climbs the engine wants to stall when the throttle is dropped? Jetting? Air intake? Still tweaking it, but any help would be great. 95% of the time my bike runs great, it's just those moments when I'm turning out of a climb to head back down that it wants to stall a bit.
 
Thanks for the input. Any advice from anyone concerning the issue of after long wide open throttle climbs the engine wants to stall when the throttle is dropped? Jetting? Air intake? Still tweaking it, but any help would be great. 95% of the time my bike runs great, it's just those moments when I'm turning out of a climb to head back down that it wants to stall a bit.

Pilot circuit a little rich. Open your air screw a half turn or drop your pilot jet a 1/2 size.
 
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Thanks for the input. Any advice from anyone concerning the issue of after long wide open throttle climbs the engine wants to stall when the throttle is dropped? Jetting? Air intake? Still tweaking it, but any help would be great. 95% of the time my bike runs great, it's just those moments when I'm turning out of a climb to head back down that it wants to stall a bit.


I'm running a bored and stroked 06 450 XC KTM and had carb issues, solved with JD jetting kit, ditched intake for a snorkel and shrouded in the carb to keep some heat in there. Works great, in spirit if the topic.....down side is neutral is hard to find.
 
Thanks for the input. Any advice from anyone concerning the issue of after long wide open throttle climbs the engine wants to stall when the throttle is dropped? Jetting? Air intake? Still tweaking it, but any help would be great. 95% of the time my bike runs great, it's just those moments when I'm turning out of a climb to head back down that it wants to stall a bit.

Had same issue with my 06 525 when I ran it as a snobike. I didn't know what caused it back then but I am betting it's carb icing. If it's not carb icing it's the spark plug cap, do yourself a favor and get an NGK water ski cap for your bike. For some reason on those RFS engines the spark plug cap grounds out on the cylinder when moisture is present.
 
On Carbed bikes when the temp is low and the moisture content in the air is high the Jet Needle and bottom of the slide will form ice on them from the air passing by after a long pull. When the throttle is chopped the ice scrapes off the needle the engine ingests a little moisture and the bottom of the slide is a little iced up restricting the amount of air able to pass by when the slide is closed. When the engine is turned off the heat from the engine cylinder head radiates back into the carb melting the ice crystals that were formed. Once thawed the bike will start and run great until this process happens again.
 
The only time I have idle issues on my FI bike is when my filter has been packed with powder or the foam filter itself has become soaked from wet snow and then froze. A brush of the filter or scooping snow out of the box fixes the issue and my FI bike runs like a top until it happens again. This issue would be present on stock airboxes for both carb'd and FI bikes. It almost always first presents itself as an idle-death after a long pull or a good bit of throttle blipping through the woods on a sustained run.

With regards to the best/worst bikes to chose from, my opinion is that no matter what you choose, choose a MX bike. Most of them are very close in terms of performance and what you end up deciding on are the little "differences" in the bikes. While I feel that some of the enduro bikes might be a better "all around" bike (for heavy summer and winter use), their biggest trade off is weight and the transmission. The Wide Ratio trans isn't ideal for how I like to snowbike and I feel that the gaps between gears are too large and rob performance. There are a couple bikes that try to bridge this gap and the only one I've seen that does it successfully is the Husky 511 series. 3 Close-Ratio and 3 Wide-Ratio gears giving you the gear precision you want in the woods along with the road speed of the top 3 Wide Ratio gears.

When it comes to carb or FI, both have their issues and both require some kind of aftermarket adjustments. Be it the JD Jet Kit, APT Smartcarb, carb heating, or a fuel controller for the FIs... nothing is purpose built from the factory for our environment yet. I still think that throwing a controller on an FI bike like the Dobeck Performance Gen4 gives you the best bang for your buck. Sure, the APT Smartcarb is pretty damn impressive, but what would be the point of ripping out your FI system to put a carb on it when a $300 controller does the same thing for your current FI? Plus you get the added information of the AFR gauge on your bike so you always know exactly what AFR you are currently achieving in every situation.... I like that kind of stuff.

Regardless, the biggest mistake you can make is letting what bike you get hold you back from riding time. In all fairness, they all get you out there and allow you to have some kick a$$ fun. Pick a bike that feels comfortable to you and buy it. Worst case scenario is you find you like something better, sell the dirt bike in the spring, buy another bike in the fall, and put a new fit kit on. No big deal.
 
On Carbed bikes when the temp is low and the moisture content in the air is high the Jet Needle and bottom of the slide will form ice on them from the air passing by after a long pull. When the throttle is chopped the ice scrapes off the needle the engine ingests a little moisture and the bottom of the slide is a little iced up restricting the amount of air able to pass by when the slide is closed. When the engine is turned off the heat from the engine cylinder head radiates back into the carb melting the ice crystals that were formed. Once thawed the bike will start and run great until this process happens again.

Thanks for the explanation. I have had this happen on my 10 SXF 450 and always after a long pull, and always clears up and is fine a few seconds later. Now I know why.
 
2011 FI yz 450
Pros, exh straight out back of cyl so there isnt anything to burn pant leg on. And it allows me to have a plastic cover neatly over the RH side of the eng to keep snow from cooling it. Air intake is up high. Only had one day this year in cold powder, that it was freezing over on the filter skins material I had over it. Next year I will cut open more area on the back side of the scoops for more surface area. Bike doesnt flood when on its side. Bike will power a bright LED light, probably brighter than on a stock enduro. Havent needed handwarmers much, exh outlet warms hands pretty quick, and I was told the throttle side wires break, often. Bike starts up on first kick mostly, if I bring it up to TDC first.
Cons; Seat is hard, gas tank small, no sweet little electric start button. Sits high with mtn horse fitkit, since this bike has a low swingarm mount, but a simple mode lowered seat height 2"
 
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