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Pro Taper Bars on Standard RMK (electrical question)

I've got a standard 2011 RMK with some pro taper bars on it. The stock accessory control block does not fit on the new bars. I see RSI sells a dash relocation kit for the hand warmers and what looks like the headlights.

What is out there to relocate the PERC button?
 
I've got a standard 2011 RMK with some pro taper bars on it. The stock accessory control block does not fit on the new bars. I see RSI sells a dash relocation kit for the hand warmers and what looks like the headlights.

What is out there to relocate the PERC button?

For the perc, you could just deploy the Pro perc button.

FYI, you probably know this, but the RMK/STD has three position heating elements, low, med, high, the Pro (stock wiring and switches) has only two (aluminum bars on the pro need more heat, no need for low). Are you keeping the RMK brake master cylinder or going cyclone?

With the 11 Pro Ride service manual, you also get the complete wiring diagrms for both Pro RMK, RMK, and Rush. It lays it all out, FWIW.

I believe RSI has discontinued the IQ dash relo, but that doesn't mean you won't find one out there. Another option - get the RSI flat or backcountry bars, ditch the pro tapers. Keep the stock controls. The Burandt bars won't work on a RMK with the stock controls.
 
I would think you can use the Rmk pro. Find the wires that goto the modular switch separate and attach to stock one.
I would give RSI call (better than email) and see what they recommend, great guys to deal with. Remember it is snow show time they maybe busy.
http://www.rsiracing.com/BILLET-RER-REVERSE-SWITCH_p_59.html

Great guys to talk to. They suck at email, at least using their web site contact widget.
 
No "Plug and play" options...The RSI kit, when it was available...included a master cylinder, switches and dash panel... lots of cutting and splicing of wires.

RSI no longer sells a switch relocation kit for the PRO... They sell a PRO Ride Dash panel kit that includes One (1) switch and panel so you can separate the thumb warmer from the grip warmers.

Cutting and splicing of the stock harness will void a warranty most likely if an electrical problem arises.

That being said... many people have done it and have had good results. Patience and careful work using good quality wiring, soldered connections and heat shrink tubing will give you good results.

PERC switch... just use a stocker.

What are you planning for the master cylinder?




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No "Plug and play" options...The RSI kit, when it was available...included a master cylinder, switches and dash panel... lots of cutting and splicing of wires.

RSI no longer sells a switch relocation kit for the PRO... They sell a PRO Ride Dash panel kit that includes One (1) switch and panel so you can separate the thumb warmer from the grip warmers.

Cutting and splicing of the stock harness will void a warranty most likely if an electrical problem arises.

That being said... many people have done it and have had good results. Patience and careful work using good quality wiring, soldered connections and heat shrink tubing will give you good results.

PERC switch... just use a stocker.

What are you planning for the master cylinder?




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that kit plug and play for the pro to separate the two warmers??? i run my thumb max and my grips low... Will see how this goes but im thinking ill have to buy this kit.

any better pics than the website? they just show stock with a plate behind, nothing where the new thumb warmer switch goes.
 
'Im in the middle of the same thing. I removed the mode/set buttons, only doing a hand/thumb warmer button and lights button on the console. I can snd you the wiring diagram for the '11 std rmk cluster, helps ALOT! PM me your email addy if ya like.

Btw I picked up a REV master cylinder for $20. Works just fine :) Brake switch included.
 
I was thinking of switching my bars on my standard rmk too they feel a little too narrow for me. So with the rsi bars would I be able to take all my controls and move them onto those bars? How are they in comparison in bend, width and height difference compared to the pro tapers?
 
Bars

I did this on my 09 rmk I used the stock master cylinder I just modified it with my die grinder and only used three of the four screws to mount it (the fourth hole can't be used because of the bend in the bars are in the way ) works great no problems it's been this way for three seasons now never had a problem it cost me nothing and only took ten mins to do it looks just fine too can barely tell
 
Best option on the Std RMK in the Pro Chassis is to use the a "straight" bar (actually 10 degrees pull back) and the proper risers for the height you want... You will have all the room you need to mount the controls plus get a more comfortable mountain bar IMO.

Good luck.

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Just finished doing the wife's sled.
I used RSI burandt bars, take off pro rmk master cylinder. Polaris pro reverse button. And the RSI pro rmk thumb warmer relocation kit, and RSI switches for the headlight and warmers.

Just soldered the wires and used glued heatshrink as good or better then OEM in my opinion.


Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

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Just got done doing this myself, I was lucky and found a 12 PRO main harness and console for a reasonable price. I swapped the harness and console in so there was no cutting or splicing of any wires. I used the 13 throttle block and kill switch along with the Burandt bar kit and cyclone master cyl. Install turned out like factory, which is what I was after.
 
"Cyclone" is the Polaris name for the master cylinders on the 2009/10 Dragons and the Pro RMK's as well as All the IQ Racers since 2005.

You should be able to find one of those or an older Ski Doo master cylinder.








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