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Pro RMK DET issue?

C

Clarke673

Somewhere between too dumb to quit and flat earth
So my sled is progressivly getting worse. I was riding it in bozeman montana and it kept on flasshing the engine light and shutting the engine down on long WOt pulls. Thought it was because of bad fuel and low elevation. So filled it up with 91 non corn and put half a bottle of octain booster in it. Well when im at 8,000 feet it is still saying DET. Can the sensor be bad?

Only issue on the sled is my kill switch doesn't work, can this be causeing some issues? My sled rips, but just cuts out every once in a while. When it cuts out, you can tell that the sled is changing timing. Any ideas?

It ran great all last year and summer, then had the chaine case fixed at a poo dealer, and no i am having issues. Not taking it back to them!
 
It's possible that you have an injector that's partially clogged causing it to lean out.
 
On -2011 check in this order
Kill switch
Tps
Moisture in contacts
Injector harness
Ignition coils

Mine had bad coils
 
what does the kill switch do to affect this? cause my kill switch hasn't worked since the second week i had this sled lol
 
The kill switch is connected to the ETC circuit.(electronic throttle Control)
It shuts the engine if your throttle sticks (freezes)
Seems strange but some has caused a lot of problem.
Bogging-det-and other electric issues)
ED
 
well i am not buying a new one. Can i just throw on a teather and take the kill switch off? I curently use the throttle safty switch to shut the sled off.
 
well i am not buying a new one. Can i just throw on a teather and take the kill switch off? I curently use the throttle safty switch to shut the sled off.

You cannot disconnect it.
it has to stay connected.
But i have engaged the etc switch and kill switch with a zip tie and tape
stowed it away under the hood in emergency situations......
remember only do this for testing and troubleshooting or if you're deep
in backcountry with no other options.
ive installed a tether on mine...
availiable as oem with plug´n play connectors on all Pol.
ED
 
well i am not buying a new one. Can i just throw on a teather and take the kill switch off? I curently use the throttle safty switch to shut the sled off.

Yes you can use a tether in parallel with the kill switch. The throttle safety switch (TSS) is the key player in intermittent running issues. The throttle safety switch and the kill switch are kinda "married" and the ECU really wants to know about the throttle switch. Have your dealer give you one under warranty and replace it yourself. Or, have your dealer read codes to see if there are any clues to your running issues like irrationalites in TPS voltage, TSS faults or injector voltage issues.
 
Yes you can use a tether in parallel with the kill switch. The throttle safety switch (TSS) is the key player in intermittent running issues. The throttle safety switch and the kill switch are kinda "married" and the ECU really wants to know about the throttle switch. Have your dealer give you one under warranty and replace it yourself. Or, have your dealer read codes to see if there are any clues to your running issues like irrationalites in TPS voltage, TSS faults or injector voltage issues.

Are you sure the kill switch is married to anything? I disconnected my kill switch on my 2011 last year (one of the connectors), and had to use the key to shut it off. It ran perfect for 1680 miles. The throttle safety switch I'm sure is another story, but I don't think the kill button is connected to anything.
 
I had the DET light come on, but my understanding is it is due to hitting the rev limiter and then the light comes on. I'm going to put in heavier wieghts and see.
 
I had the DET light come on, but my understanding is it is due to hitting the rev limiter and then the light comes on. I'm going to put in heavier wieghts and see.

Is this on a 2011 or 2012? I hit the rev limiter many times last year, and all it does is cut your motor for a sec...no lights or detonation code. I'm not saying it couldn't cause a DET warning, but I never saw it when experimenting with clutching last year.
 
im hitting 7800-8100 rrs, no where near 8400.

I am going to **** with it tonight when i get a chance. I realy am not having good luck with any of my polaris dealers around here so i try to aviod them if i can. Curently a 98 700 rmk is kicking my ***, can't get it to run lol. D-slide carbs suck.
 
Are you sure the kill switch is married to anything? I disconnected my kill switch on my 2011 last year (one of the connectors), and had to use the key to shut it off. It ran perfect for 1680 miles. The throttle safety switch I'm sure is another story, but I don't think the kill button is connected to anything.

My bad, the throttle switch has 2 resistors in it and is not related to the kill switch. Don't know what I was thinkin', must be lack of snow...
 
last ride of the season last year mine would flash DET and limit the rpm's to ~6500. the spark plugs were loose and screwed up the threads, replaced the head under warantee, and found the tps out of adjustment.
 
last ride of the season last year mine would flash DET and limit the rpm's to ~6500. the spark plugs were loose and screwed up the threads, replaced the head under warantee, and found the tps out of adjustment.

Sparkplugs becoming loose, is detonation. Or inproper install.
But if they are not thighten properly, they should tread out pretty fast.
 
i am surprised polaris replaced your head for you not having hte spark plugs in all the way...
 
It all happened that ride. I check the sled pretty good before each trip, and it was the highest elevation I'd ridden all season. Fuel was bought at the same pump everyone else I was riding with used so that tells me it's has to have been the tps.

I have a pretty great dealer.
 
found out i have engine code 173 which translates into too high of voltage coming from my exhaust sensor...
 
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