PRO RMK build my way

[joshkoltes]

So why is your ratio so low? You'll end up with no track speed and dig trenches right off the line?
As for price the cmx came down to 1900 and claims 9# less than stock, well chain case. Plus it's way over built
Yours is great getting the brake down on the driveshaft, the stock way looks dangerous

 

[LoudHandle]

So why is your ratio so low? You'll end up with no track speed and dig trenches right off the line?
As for price the cmx came down to 1900 and claims 9# less than stock, well chain case. Plus it's way over built
Yours is great getting the brake down on the driveshaft, the stock way looks dangerous

I'm not so low. Just lower than the lowest ratio CMX offers which from memory is in the neighbor hood of 2.10 to 1. Another is I use 9 tooth drivers and the other is I insist on using the full clutch. By gearing for 70-80 MPH you can use the whole clutch and it runs far cooler and actually grabs the belt harder with soft springs and shallow helix angles (far better than running the more popular; high angle helix and stiff springs). Call me old school, but it just works better. Your track speed in a climb is actually higher and trenching is more a result of suspension settings and throttle control, than gear ratio (IMO).

The CMX is Still too much even at 1/3 the current price. IMO
I will not pay that much to inherit all the engineering short coming Mark engineered into the CMX Belt drive system. And even 9# less than the chain case is still too much of a weight penalty for my taste.


As for the brake on the driveshaft; Having the brake on the jackshaft does have a lot of advantages. I can mount mine in either location, it may still end up back on the jackshaft. The main reason for double splining the drive shaft is to fix Polaris Quality control issues with the bearing fit on the PTO side plain stub bearing fit. I saw too many that were not a press fit and were worn out with less than 400 miles on the sled.

 

[sledtrash101]

Sledtrash
I have a few of these from a prototype build that I will not be using and would be willing to sell them. I started out with a set of the whal bro ones that are the same as what loud handle is using but went with my own design instead. These will take a seal on one side that will allow grease to be feed to the bearing. My second version will mount with studs and the retaining ring was eliminated so I could get the bearing inboard farther. The bulkhead will now do what the retaining ring was doing before. There are more details in my build thread to see how these were going to be used and details on the newer design. If anything else it may give you some ideas for your own design. Greasing was something I wanted to be able to do and I have been able to provide for it on both drive shaft bearings and on the belt drive side of the jack shaft. Please feel free to PM me for more info or details.

You are not alone on the crazy thing of building your own there are at least two more of us that are with you.


Loud Handle. Your build is looking good. I would like to see some more details on the pro shaft with two splined ends on it. Did you just glue in a stock one or did you make one up for the other end. How did this come out as far as running true I have been checking a few stock shafts including hydro formed ones and I would have expected them to run a little better that they are. The fixed bearing and shimming to no side load on a custom build just makes things more challenging compared to the old days of installing the drive shaft, locking down the drive pulley to the shaft bearing, tightening the front skid cross shaft, and then locking the lock collar on the drive shaft bearing to wherever it ends up.

Sent you a pm


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LoudHandle]

I will no longer be contributing to this forum

Due to the Communist like control of the Edit function; I will no longer be contributing to Snowest. Thread Closed

 

[LoudHandle]

For those that dislike my decision to not continue this thread

Make your voice heard by posting your thoughts in this thread; https://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433487
Which discusses the absurdity of the time limit on the edit function / and needing to bother an approved moderator to change anything after the X (appears to be between 29 and 30 days) time period.

I've never depended on anyone to do anything for me, and I'm not going to start now!

If you truly want an open forum to share ideas, tips, advise, and input then open the damn edit function as well (Christopher).

 

[Scott]

When you build your full carbon chassis, what do you think it will weigh?
What WON'T be carbon?
What WILL be carbon?

Will you only build one-off projects?

 

[couch]

I'm going to start by briefly touching on what I feel is a very beneficial geometry change to the PRO Ride RMK's

//snowest.com/forum/forum.vb/picture.php?albumid=3576&pictureid=34186
This photo shows the primary difference between the Rush mid-shaft (Left) and the RMK mid-shaft (Right). As I've posted elsewhere on SW; by moving the tie rod end inboard to the Rush position or trading to the Rush Mid-Post, you go from a 1:1 steering ratio to a 0.75:1 steering ratio. Or in other words; by turning the handlebars 45 degrees, equals 60 degrees of ski movement. The advantage to this is you don't have the bar end in your crotch when doing tight turns or hard counter steering. And in my opinion the steering effort is so close to the same it is negligible. If you trail ride a lot, it may not be for you, but it's ultimately no harder than the rush sleds geometry wise.

FWIW; The Rush hole is exactly 1" inboard from the RMK hole. For those wanting to modify the stock part. I have not modified the 3 ALT's mid-posts I have yet but will be quite soon.

P.S. All these stock parts are for sale if you want or need something, PM me. I've acquired a lot of stock parts for R&D over the last 5 years or so and they need to go now. So I can start on the AXYS version.

//snowest.com/forum/forum.vb/picture.php?albumid=3576&pictureid=34179

How did the steering change play out? Curious as I was thinking of doing the mod.

 

[LoudHandle]

How did the steering change play out? Curious as I was thinking of doing the mod.

All my sleds have it, and everyone else that has done it, have voiced no downside / no regrets.