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Pro Ride Belts

AndrettiDog

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Sorry if this is a repeat post, I searched and didn't find specifically what I wanted.

What are the belt numbers and compound information for the Pro Ride. Looks like they will be the same as the IQ, but I wanted to make sure. I have several belts in the garage and I wanted to see which will work and what their expected use (soft and cheap, hard and $$ or somewhere in between) is.
 
Sorry if this is a repeat post, I searched and didn't find specifically what I wanted.

What are the belt numbers and compound information for the Pro Ride. Looks like they will be the same as the IQ, but I wanted to make sure. I have several belts in the garage and I wanted to see which will work and what their expected use (soft and cheap, hard and $$ or somewhere in between) is.

Mine came with the 115. Not sure on the specs, but it is the same belt the 08-10's used.
 
Mine also came with the 115, what is everyone finding on Price, so far I have found them to be around $139:face-icon-small-con
Anyone reccomend any aftermarket ones, or stick with Polaris belts.
 
Has anybody tried the Goodyear Gatorback belts? They might be a cheaper alternative but I don't know anybody that has tried them.
 
I have been running the stock 115 belts on my 08 dragon 800 ....first one went 1100 miles...second one has over 1500 miles on it and still works and looks great...hard to get that kind of life out of any other belt .....
 
Where is a good price on the 115? My dealer claims his cost is $170, I doubt that...
 
There is another Polaris belt we can use, I'm researching now to find out. Never heard anyone use the AC belt.

$170 is probably the retail of that accessory. They do last a long time. Cheapest I think I paid was $130 through a dealer when I bought a machine.
 
That 115 belt is probably around 90 dollars for the dealer. Ask for a discount on them they have lot's of room to work with. 20% in not uncommon. And if you bought a sled there it should be real helpful.
 
anyone else heard of using the a/c t660 belt? supposed to be just a little wider and cost half as much???

I ran ultimax on my REV800 and they did not last near as long. They wore out and would not hold RPM's. technically it never broke, will they still warranty it then? Switched to the stock Doo belt and no issues, ran like a raped ape.
 
I ran ultimax xs 809 on 08 RMK. It would not hold revs either. I put a 321115 on and gained 150-200 rmps. Deflection was set on both. Must be a different compound belt. Think I payed $ 145 with ship on a e-bay store.
 
you can run the 080 belt it is very similar. it is half the price. I would run only the 115 as i have never seen one actually explode. I feel that when belts blow it puts a lot of stress on the crank. Each to there own though.
 
Here is what I've learned... take it for what it is worth.

Ultimax XS 809, I think. They are cheaper and come with a one year warranty.

I spoke with a factory tech from Carlisle about 2 hours ago... for about 20 minutes on their belts... although the XS 809 is admittedly a high quality belt they do not make a belt that is comparable to the Mitsuboshi 3211115 belts from Polaris. They are working on it though and hope to have a new design into the hands of some of the more hard core testers on turbos and NA PRO's this season... For possible release next.

The compound difference does make a diff in how it performs with the clutch calibration on your sled compared to a 3211115 belt. Also, the side clearance May need to be re-set.

Has anybody tried the Goodyear Gatorback belts? They might be a cheaper alternative but I don't know anybody that has tried them.

I have a few of these to try this season... I'm going to give a couple to my turbo buddies to see how they hold up.... I ran one for about 300 miles on a 900 last season and had decent results... BUT... the primary had to be re-shimmed.

There is another Polaris belt we can use, I'm researching now to find out. Never heard anyone use the AC belt.

$170 is probably the retail of that accessory. They do last a long time. Cheapest I think I paid was $130 through a dealer when I bought a machine.

The dealers are not making a big markup on the 3211115 belts... $130 probably represents cost or near it.

The 3211122 belt is similar to the 3211115 belt, but is cut rather than ground finish and is not as precise belt-to-belt in tolerance. JKinzer has had good results with the 122 belt. Similar compound.

you can run the 080 belt it is very similar. it is half the price. I would run only the 115 as i have never seen one actually explode. I feel that when belts blow it puts a lot of stress on the crank. Each to there own though.

The 3211080 belt IS Similar as Jafraune points out...in size to the 3211115 belt, but not the same angle, compound or side width... Possible to use a temporary backup unless you set up the clutches... But you would need to buy another 3211115 belt if you did not re-shim and change weights... If your belt blows... I'd want the correct replacement "in the hole" for sure.


BREAK IN and washing is Crucial to belt performance these days.. a belt is something that you have to maintain, break in and keep in adjustment as it wears if you want decent life and wear.

Most riders that I've been around don't even have the belt deflection set on their sled... and this only takes 5 minutes. AND it makes a big diff in performance of your sled.



My 2 cents.
MH.
 
I ran ultimax xs 809 on 08 RMK. It would not hold revs either. I put a 321115 on and gained 150-200 rmps. Deflection was set on both. Must be a different compound belt. Think I payed $ 145 with ship on a e-bay store.


The XS809 will run about 150-200 RPMs lower than the stock belt. You will need to adjust clutch for this. They cost about $100 after 10-20% off. Save reciept and for $20 they will replace it when it pulls a cord or is damaged. This is a good option if you run hard and go through a 2-3 belts a year.

Also, once you adjust your clutch back up for the lower RPMs, if you ever get in a spot with low RPMs you can always put your stock belt on and regain your R's for that part of the day.
 
BREAK IN and washing is Crucial to belt performance these days.. a belt is something that you have to maintain, break in and keep in adjustment as it wears if you want decent life and wear.

Most riders that I've been around don't even have the belt deflection set on their sled... and this only takes 5 minutes. AND it makes a big diff in performance of your sled.



My 2 cents.
MH.

Exactly. And some knuckleheads never get it, toss on a new belt from the dealer, and hammer it immediately. Saw a guy smoke a new one on the trailer with a frozen track a couple years back. Prep and break in, some warm up, and paying attention to wear and deflection makes ALL the difference.
 
To me it is not worth adjusting your clutch to save $30. I would rather just run the Polaris belt. I have yet (knock on wood) to destroy a Polaris belt. Seems like one belt is good for all season and then some (I try and start each season on a new belt, regardless).
 
That 115 belt is probably around 90 dollars for the dealer. Ask for a discount on them they have lot's of room to work with. 20% in not uncommon. And if you bought a sled there it should be real helpful.
Not true one part that does not have a decent mark up is belts, here is cost and msrp on the proper belt for 08-11 800 polaris sleds
Part Number Description Quantity Dealer Cost MSRP*
3211115 BELT-DRIVE 11.5CD CVT 1 $142.79 $178.49
 
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