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Pro front spring?

jdog1

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
My wife rides a 14 800 pro and the front is just to stiff even at the softest setting for her. Do they make softer springs? Or would she be better off going with some fox evols and ditch the springs? She weights all of a 120 lbs. Other then that she loves the sled and can ride it well.
 
Might be the front track adjustment.

There are multi rate springs from Z-broz and Raptor may help out.

Yes... there are different springs out there too... RCS etc..

BUT...

Try this.

Your adjustments may be more needed in the rear suspension.

My suggestion... Bring all the settings BACK to the stock settings according to rider weight and then start from there... Those are detailed in your owners manual.

Try adjusting the front track shock... I believe this will be the key to her rider satisfaction....

Also...Try removing the sway bar or get one of the SwayBar quick disconnects out there.
Nice thing is with the disconnect... you can quickly put it back for good cornering on trails or if you want to use the sled.

MAKE SURE you clean and lube your adjusters... with the shock out or weight off the sled.

Also... IMO... if you have a season of use on it... Pull the skid... clean out all the "muck" and re grease everything.... and KEEP it greased.

From the 2013 owners manual.
THE PERFECT FIT
Suspension Adjustments

Independent Front Suspension and Front Track Shock Spring Preload

(RMK/PRO-RMK)

Factory settings, combined with user adjustments to the rear track shock
spring, should be all that’s necessary to provide the best riding experience
for most riders. The primary adjustment for overall vehicle balance
is RTSS preload. Perform this adjustment first. See page 50.

After adjusting the preload, and if desired, additional adjustments can be
made to the independent front suspension and front track shock preload.
When adjusting the front suspension, be sure the springs on both sides
of the vehicle are at the same adjustment.

Always perform shock spring preload adjustments with the weight of
the vehicle removed from the shock and with the shock at full extension.

NOTICE: Never exceed one inch (2.54 cm) of preload beyond the factory settings.

When decreasing preload, make sure at least two turns of preload
are holding the retainer against the spring.

For a softer ride on rough, washboard surfaces, reduce front track shock
(FTS) spring preload by 1-2 turns.

To improve corner stability, increase front suspension (IFS) spring preload
by 1-2 turns on both sides of the vehicle.

NOTICE: IFS spring installed length must always be set at least 1/4 inch (6 mm) less than the free length.




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All that being said.. I'm a lighter rider and I have the Float3-Evols from Timbersled.
LOVE THEM!!

And I've been super happy with them... I'll be running those or the EVOL-R's this season.

The "R" in the Shock name stands for Rebound adjustment
... but it is actually a "Compliance adjuster" that affects BOTH Compression and Rebound of the shock (softer or stiffer on both) .



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we have some z broz dual rate springs on the shelf, give us a call at fastrax 253-848-0908, we can also revalve your rear shock for a better ride
 
Save yourself some money and have them all revalved. Replace your RTS spring with an option from Polaris.
If you want acknowledgements to this setup, I have them from California to Wisconsin. From 150 to 270#, all you need is to adjust the RTS spring. Just PM me and I will give you their contact info.

IMG_0199.jpg IMG_0201.jpg IMG_0203.jpg
 
There’s a light RTS spring option from the Rush that will work.

More for kids and light people to 110 lbs.

Got this info from Polaris Engineering.

7043195-133 170# rate.
 
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In my RTS build sheet I use the optional Polaris 190# spring 7043572-133 and it works very well. One turn on the adjuster in either direction will dramatically change handling and ride characteristics.
These build sheets have many hours of testing.
 
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I'll be trying them out this year on back up sled... TRS... You havent lead me wrong yet!!

Thx.




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Eric,
I run this setup on my turbo also, with the addition of two turns to the RTS adjuster. Keeps the front end down.
 
Where's a good place to buy seal kits and shims for these shocks?

Edit: are these shims all the same I.d., and the numbers are o.d. X thickness? If so what's the I.d.?
 
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Save yourself some money and have them all revalved. Replace your RTS spring with an option from Polaris.
If you want acknowledgements to this setup, I have them from California to Wisconsin. From 150 to 270#, all you need is to adjust the RTS spring. Just PM me and I will give you their contact info.

are the -14 pro shocks valved the same?

If possible can you go trough what each change of the shim what it does, how it change the characteristic of the shock
 
Where's a good place to buy seal kits and shims for these shocks?

Edit: are these shims all the same I.d., and the numbers are o.d. X thickness? If so what's the I.d.?

Get your seals from Polaris or Walker Evans. You can buy shims from Polaris, Fox, Walker Evans. I personally like Fox shims they don't burn out as quickly.
If you print the sheets, you will see it is self explanatory.
 
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are the -14 pro shocks valved the same?

If possible can you go trough what each change of the shim what it does, how it change the characteristic of the shock

Yes, valve and re-spring the 13-14 the same.
Do a google search on valving. It will give you an in depth explanation. It would take me two pages here to explain your question.
The piston bypass "drill out" size is paramount. A jet drill is needed to accomplish this task.
Amsoil fluid is the other constant here, it has a consistent viscosity. The shock fluid industry does not have a standard for rating fluids.
 
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You cannot do only part of this shock package. It must be done in its entirety. It is designed to work in unity. If you cheat on one aspect of this build you will get poor results. It has the same affect as fine tuning all four corners of a race car.
 
A quick note to those reading this.... Unless you are familiar with shock service and have the correct tools (nitrogen filling station etc) and know the procedures....You will NOT be able to service your shock yourself.







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But... to return the original posters question... I believe that you may be able to get it to an "acceptable" state with just some adjustment on the rear skid and a sway bar disconnect.

If the sled has a full season of use on it...and you need a service anyway... send in all the shocks to a service center like FasTrax, Gas Shock Repair, Carls, Walker Evans etc and try out TRS's setup... I guarantee it is well thought out.

You will still need to take the needed time of trial and error to set up the suspension for her particular needs... once you do...her riding will be much more enjoyable.





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The rear skid is set up to Polaris specs for her weight and sway bars are off. Thanks everyone for the input. I have some good options here.
 
Bump.

Doing my 2013 Pro. Do the springs wear out noticeably? I weigh about 220 lbs dressed. Maybe 240 lbs counting my tunnel pack, gas can etc. I have about 1000 miles on my sled should I consider replacing all four springs as well or just redo the shocks? If necessary, what are the most reasonable springs?
 
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