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Pro cluching / Cooke City ??

FatDogX

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Heading to Cooke next week and taking the 12 Assault. Spoke with a few different guys, and I’m getting mixed reviews on clutching?

The sled itself is stock except for an HPS can. Can someone tell me if I’m heading in the right direction with clutching?

Primary – SLP, Blue / Pink spring

Secondary – Black / Purple

Weights – 60’s or 62’s??????????? dealer told me to run the 60’s with the above spring combo and some guys are telling me o run the 62’s???


Rider weight all geared up somewhere in that 250 range ??

So am I way off base or at least heading in the right direction ?????

Thanks in advance!
 
Dealer is on the right track, 10-60's should work fine with the purple black secondary. I've been able to do a little testing at elevation this season, the 10-62's will fall on their face as soon as a little belt heat comes into the equation.
 
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Thanks, that's what I was leaning towards was the 60's

Anyone else????
 
Yes springs were stock, it back shifted fast. They are clutched well from the factory as many others on here have already said.
 
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I don't mean to hi jack this thread, but what elevation is Cooke at? I run anywhere from 7500-10000+ and my 11 Pro has stock clutching. And Im only getting 7600 max, on the flat hard pack. And only 6900 to 7400 RPM on steeper slopes with fresh snow. Anybody have a recommendation or found something that works for that high of elevation.
 
Cooke is at 7600' and MTNs go up to 11,000'. Might want to try replacing your springs with new ones,put on a new belt, and make sure the power valves are clean.
 
Cooke is at 7600' and MTNs go up to 11,000'. Might want to try replacing your springs with new ones,put on a new belt, and make sure the power valves are clean.
Would you just put stock springs back in? It's got a new belt, and I cleaned the power valves 2 rides ago. Didn't help much. Thanks.
 
Just got back from Cooke with my '12 Assault w/ 5.1.

All stock - 250lb dressed + pack.

Highest elevation I rode in was about 9900'. So 7600-9900. Just followed Polaris recommendation and ran 10-60s. Everything else as delivered. Was running about 8100 on a long powder climb. Sled had zero miles when I got out there. 85 when I left after 2 days. Not sure how many hours, but I'm certain it is over the 3 hrs for "break in map".

I'd run stock springs and 10-60s.

Mark
 
Would you just put stock springs back in? It's got a new belt, and I cleaned the power valves 2 rides ago. Didn't help much. Thanks.

If your replacing springs I would look at the Black / Purple for the secondary and I believe the other one that guys are running is the Black / White but not exactly sure on that second one?

From what I've read and what guys are saying, the Black / Purple will back shift even better then stock.
 
I don't mean to hi jack this thread, but what elevation is Cooke at? I run anywhere from 7500-10000+ and my 11 Pro has stock clutching. And Im only getting 7600 max, on the flat hard pack. And only 6900 to 7400 RPM on steeper slopes with fresh snow. Anybody have a recommendation or found something that works for that high of elevation.
What weight are you running. I run 10-60s at 8500-10000+ft. and 7900-8100 rpms. If you ride alot above 9500ft I would try 10-58s. mine is stock other than black/purple secondary spring which shouldnt make that much difference.
 
TGITT If you are stock Polaris clutching at what they consider the high alt setup which is 58 helix on 10-62 you will be way over weighted for that alt. With that poor setup from the factory your gr on a stock setup is 58 grams for 8000 and up.

The stock setup when correctly weighted will pull about 250 higher RPM's from non-loaded conditions to loaded. You will also build some heat with excessive high RPM use in loaded conditions and experience some performance fade. For the average mtn user it's a good combo that is balanced and functional. For the lesser % who really ride and want better there are setups here as well.

If you look in there and actually do have lighter weights the next thing to inspect is the pipe sensor. For some strange reason once in a while these are faulty without throwing codes. Pretty tell tail sign is if everything else is normal and known but the sled just won't light up as it used too.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I'll go tear into it right now and see what I've got to deal with.
 
I finally found some time to tear into it yesterday, and I had a bad roller, and that was causing one of the weights to wear funny. It had 10-62s in it but I Found some 10-60s laying around in our shop, threw those in along with a new roller, I'm pretty sure that was the problem. The only bad thing is no snow to go test it... :(
 
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