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Pro 800 set up questions.

- Front track shock tightened with roughly an inch of threads showing (as GMAN said). They tend to like the front track shock a good bit stiffer than they come from the factory. This adjustment makes a big difference on Pros.
- Leave the swaybar in with the stock shocks/springs. Although if you've got the Assault shocks and the springs are stiffer....hmmm not sure there.
- Don't go hog wild with the front ski shock tensions....I would leave them as loose as feels comfortable.
- Rear track shock depends a lot on weight.....I went by the chart in the owners manual IIRC and worked well. As a really generic answer.....I would tighten it until it bottoms very rarely and you should be good. This adjustment also makes a big difference on pros.
- Bars.....the pro tapers are good for me at 6'2"....so they may be too high for shorter dudes.
 
Have you guys tried rolling ur bars back like chris brandt and skinner do on the new schooled video?

Don't have the vid - can you expand on that please? How far back are they rolling the bars? On a Pro or a Cat? Both the Pros and Summits sidehill better with your weight further forward than on a Cat. If you get further back on a Pro you'll just wash the rear out and turn uphill on sketchy sidehill (don't ask me how I know this :face-icon-small-win).

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
So from what I gather the group consensus is to tighten the front track shock to have 1 inch of threads showing behind the retainer and set the rear track shock to the spec length in the ops manual and have the front ski shocks as loose as possible?

I weigh 165 pounds so Im at the light end of the factory specs. The rear track shock spec for my weight is around 10 1/2" and its set at 10 1/4" and the Front track shock has about 3/8" of threads behind the retainer. The ski shocks have about 20 threads showing behind the retainers. I rode it for one trip out west and thought it was pretty good but now Im thinking it might be just that much better if try messing with the FTS. I'm thinking I might need to tighten up the FTS and loosen the RTS and front ski shocks a little.
 
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Bump, this is a good thread. I've read everything from loosen FTS as much as possible to tighten ski shocks as much as possible. I'll have to experiment myself.

It seems the general consensus is to really tighten up the FTS. I did that before I even got a ride on it. (1 inch of threads) I think I may go back to factory specs and give it a try as well though. What could it hurt right?
Set my RTS to what seems to be a good setting. I'll leave that alone for now.
I think I need to loosen up my front ski shocks a tad. I'm like 165 without gear and they seem pretty stiff right now.

Now here's a question, has anyone experimented with rolling their bars? I think mine was set at minus 1. I might try play with that as well and see if it makes any noticeable differences.

Anyways, 8 miles on it in my yard today and it seemed pretty good. Not a lot of snow to really tell though since when I pull it over I'm basically riding on grass.
 
is to really tighten up the FTS. I did that before I even got a ride on it. (1 inch of threads) I think I may go back to factory specs and give it a try as well though. What could it hurt right?
Set my RTS to what seems to be a good setting. I'll leave that alone for now.

There is another thread going where guys are loosening the FTS as much as possible for better attack angle and less trenching. I personally don't like it as much that way because I like a little more weight transfer for getting the front end up when needed.....but it really depends on your weight and riding style.

With regard to the bars....I like them inline with the steering post because that makes sense to me and gives the most "direct" steering feel, if that makes sense. One man's opinion and this could also be affected by rider height and body position.
 
Setup pro rmk 800 163"

I have a pro rmk 800 -12 a 163" and I thought on my first ride that it was a little hard to find balance point.
I just made this adjustment on mine and it really improved handling.
Skis moved into narrow position.
Softening ski springs.
Tighten skid front shock about five turns.
Tihten skid rear shock about three turns
Moved back angle on handlebar to -1.
Really improved handling removing sway bar is absolutely not necessary now.
I think about rising bar one or two inch also.
But this is really a good start
 
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