primary clutch

[huck1545]

Hi
Have a 2002 rmk 700 144. Everything is stock only has 476 miles on it.Took it in to my local dealer for a check up, they suggested that the 10/56 weights are to light for this elevation and they are sticking.They suggested 10/64 weights from what iam reading are the 10/64 too heavey for the 700 when its only stock?The elevation here is 2500 at home the mountains not sure.Going to remove my clutch so I can clean it so whats the easiest way to remove the clutch?O the spring is a black/green.

Thanks

Huck​

 

[retiredpop]

10-64 is okay for 2500 feet but will be heavy for mountains (chart shows 10-62 but your dealer should know). 10-56 was stock but the RMK is set for 7-9000 feet from the factory.

Here is the chart so you can see for yourself. http://cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9916953r01.pdf

As far as clutch removal I prefer using a clutch puller tool. Others use water and teflon tape on the threads of a bolt to hydraulic it off.

 

[huck1545]

Thanks for the chart this will help.Do you have to remove the clutch assemble to stop them from sticking.If they are sticking I guess they need to be clean I guess.


Cheers

Huck

 

[retiredpop]

You don't have to remove the clutch from the engine but it does make it easier to work on. You can remove the 6 cover bolts evenly to get at the spring and weights. After you remove the cover you can remove the weights by taking out the weight pivot pins. Be careful when extracting the pins because there are 2 small shims on either side of the weight. Also take note of which way the pins are orientated in the assembly as the nut goes on a certain side. Don't use any lube on any parts of the clutch when reassembling because they are meant to be run dry. Lube attracts belt residue which gums stuff up. It may be a good idea to get the dealer to pop the clutch off just because it is a 2002 and probably never been off with only 476 miles. If they get seized on there due to rust then you have major problem.

 

[volcano buster]

I wasn't aware that the clutch weights were shimmed from the factory. None of mine were.

My '05 had 10-58 weights and once I got it where I wanted it, I had 10-62's with an Almond round primary spring, stock secondary and geared it down.

Ditto on having the dealer pop the primary off for the first time. Those can be a booger to get off. If they booger it up getting it off, they may help you out on parts to get it fixed. If you do it, you are on your own.

 

[huck1545]

Thanks guys

So for me to just change out the weights I don't have to remove the clutch. All I have to do is remove the cover then remove the weights and that's it.

Thanks

Huck

 

[volcano buster]

You can actually change the weights out without popping the cover off. Do a search on it, as there are several threads that go into detail with good photos. Just make sure whatever you are using to keep the sheaves open doesn't slip out.

I had a piece of metal rod the same size as the pivot bolt and tapered one end. I use that to feed into the clutch and then center the weight. Once that is in place, I push the pivot bolt through which pushes this guide pin out. I think it saves hammering on the pivot bolt which can knick/booger up the bushing in the weight if it isn't just right. You can do it without it, but it makes life easier and the job quicker.

 

[huck1545]

So by replacing the weights will this solve my problem of sticking too?

 

[retiredpop]

I guess it depends on whether the weights were making it stick by not pivoting freely or if they have grooves worn in the contact surface. It's hard to say what the dealer meant by sticking. I've heard people complain about erratic clutch operation and it turns out the spring was broken. That is why I would at the very least take the cover off so you can make sure everything slides smoothly throughout the full shift range without binding.

I may have been mistaken about the shims I mentioned earlier beside the weights. That might have been on a Yamaha. Old age is setting in.

 

[Goinboardin]

The weights probably are not shimmed, but they ought to be. I ran Cat/Yamaha weight shims on each side of the weights to avoid gouging the clutch when the weight pin bushing was worn out.

You should just pop the clutch off with the hydraulic method, then wash it in hot soapy water. Let it dry, then take the cover off (remove 3/6 bolts completely then loosen each of the remaining ones individually to evenly let the cover rise, near the end of the bolts' threads push the cover down and remove the 3 bolts completely and let up on the cover, then it is off). At this point replace that ancient primary spring, $25 at the dealer. Remove the weights. Clean everything up, check for wear (shouldn't have much--if any--with only 475miles). Reassemble with a new primary spring. Use a dab of blue locktight on the cover bolts. Figure out the altitude you ride at, use the weights according to the Polaris chart or use a knowledgeable source for suggestions.

Note:
Weight pin bushings like to wear fairly quickly. When they wear too much the weight goes crooked during its "swing" and hits the spider. This will cause some odd performance and usually the sled won't pull RPM. Also, don't use solvents for cleaning clutches/belts; the aluminum is porous and will hold some of the residue. Just wash clutches & belts with a scotchbrite and hot soapy water.

Good luck, when sleds are clutched well they perform leaps and bounds better than when clutching is neglected.

 

[snowx99]

Polaris hasn't used shimmed weights since I can remember, back when they came out with the bushed weights. Comet, Cat, some others did. No reason for it.

You weights might just be a bit stiff from belt dust, I wouldn't suspect worn out parts with that low miles unless they are rusted from sitting outside. Brake/Parts cleaner might be enough to free them up, but why skimp on basic maintenance?

Curious why you didn't have the dealer just pull the clutch apart since it was in there? Anywho, simple clutch compression tool and coverplate holder will assist in replacing the weights and checking the pins. Clutch puller is needed to remove the clutch. Both are cheap tools and will last forever, even if you upgrade sleds, most of the Polaris stuff has been pretty consistant over the years. Never shy away from tool investments, I've never been sorry. Dennis Kirk, HPE, Outdoorsupplyonline, Amazon, Goodwin's, etc. all stock clutch tools.

Service manuals available for download as well. Do some reading, get the tools, Team brand springs can be had on Amazon for around $20 shipped (OEM Polaris are nearly $40 these days) and you're off to the races....

 

[huck1545]

Hi Guys

Thanks a lot for your time and info.Going to buy a clutch puller this weekend and start at her.When I had the sled at the dealer it was just for a check over before purchase.Any suggestions on spring or just replace black/green.Our elevation in town is 2500 or so,If going to the mountains maybe between 3000-4000.I finally got the manuals downloaded so now I have all info I should need.


Cheers

Huck

 

[snowx99]

I've had good luck with Polaris black/green (120-340) on both my 800s, others prefer higher engagement and/or higher finish rate. A lot depends on preference, mods, etc. The Team branded bright yellow is that same rate, 120-340 and can be had on Amazon for $19.50 shipped (just picked one up a week ago).

 

[huck1545]

Purchase a clutch puller at dealer $60.00.Sweet tool took a minute and I had the primary setting on the bench.Talk to a guy in the service department he told to bring in my clutch and he will look it over and till me what I should replace.he has a bucket full of weights 10/62 from the newer sleds and offer me a set for 50 bucks they are new so will purchase them and install.Also remove my secondary.


Huck

 

[retiredpop]

Good for you. Learning and doing your own work is the best thing to do in this sport.

 

[huck1545]

Well finish my clutches.Replace spring and weights in primary went with the B/G spring with 10/62 weights.Secondary just replaced spring. I am worried about the torque specs for primary and secondary is this right....


PRIMARY 40-45 FT LBS

SECONDARY 15 FT LB'S

 

[retiredpop]

I'm pretty sure that is what the shop manual stated. The torque ratings on the primary were quite a bit lower than they are on the small blocks of today. I always use some blue loctite on the secondary. Just retorque the bolts after operating the sled for a while.

 

[Goinboardin]

Make sure both the clutch taper and the crank taper are rust free, clean, and dry. Torque the bolt (clean and dry threads). Elevate the track, run the sled through a few engagements. Retorque the primary bolt. Go for an easy ride, retorque the bolt. When it stops taking torque then it is seated and installed correctly. It will pop off easy in the future too. This advice came with my primary clutch that I bought from IndyDan (Polaris guru) last winter.