primary clutch torque
- Thread starter turbo RMK
- Start date
96!!
Here is what Indydan had to say in a post. I'd heed his advise.
I might add, if you don't mind.........
I saw the part about 80 ft Ibs on the clean fire
and 96 ft Ibs on the 2005 & 06 - 700 / 900
Torque Is important - The proper steps leading up to torquing maybe more important.
#1 - Understand what your trying to acheive.
#2 - The goal here is to get the drive clutch and the crank snout to become locked together as tite as possible without damaging the bolt. ( so the drive clutch does NOT spin on the crank ) and weld itself to the crank ( normally cocked if it happens )
#3 - Prep -One of the most important steps, is to make sure both the drive clutch bore and the crank snout is polished and clean with a very fine scotch-brite type item. ( dirty hands are a killer to the final process )
make sure the last thing you do is wash your hands and then clean both the clutch bore and the crank snout with a brake cleaner type product. so they are completely dry when they go together.
#4 - 80 ft Ibs is really enough for any snowmobile, ....... 96 is really pushing the strength of the botl and I would NOT recomend going that tite.
#5 - Just make damn sure you do a few run ups and retorque, then a mild drive with easy engagements and then another retorque.
#6 - how do you know when your done..............When the bolt stops taking torque your done.
#7 - if anyone EVER tells you to put any kind of lube on the crank or clutch..........do NOT ever try this.
some People have gotten by with this.........Its dead wrong.
the better you seat the clutch to the crank to defy slipping the easier it will come off next time.
Have a GREAT riding year!!!!
IndyDan
I might add, if you don't mind.........
I saw the part about 80 ft Ibs on the clean fire
and 96 ft Ibs on the 2005 & 06 - 700 / 900
Torque Is important - The proper steps leading up to torquing maybe more important.
#1 - Understand what your trying to acheive.
#2 - The goal here is to get the drive clutch and the crank snout to become locked together as tite as possible without damaging the bolt. ( so the drive clutch does NOT spin on the crank ) and weld itself to the crank ( normally cocked if it happens )
#3 - Prep -One of the most important steps, is to make sure both the drive clutch bore and the crank snout is polished and clean with a very fine scotch-brite type item. ( dirty hands are a killer to the final process )
make sure the last thing you do is wash your hands and then clean both the clutch bore and the crank snout with a brake cleaner type product. so they are completely dry when they go together.
#4 - 80 ft Ibs is really enough for any snowmobile, ....... 96 is really pushing the strength of the botl and I would NOT recomend going that tite.
#5 - Just make damn sure you do a few run ups and retorque, then a mild drive with easy engagements and then another retorque.
#6 - how do you know when your done..............When the bolt stops taking torque your done.
#7 - if anyone EVER tells you to put any kind of lube on the crank or clutch..........do NOT ever try this.
some People have gotten by with this.........Its dead wrong.
the better you seat the clutch to the crank to defy slipping the easier it will come off next time.
Have a GREAT riding year!!!!
IndyDan
Similar threads
