Primary clutch question
- Thread starter fasta76
- Start date
Sounds like to me you need a new bolt and bushing kit.
Is the tiny set-screw centered and tight on the dimple of the weight's pivot crossbolt? You'll need to relieve the spring pressure on the weights to check.
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C-clamp across the sheaves but only move it less than a 1/2". Vise-grip type works nice, you can push the clutch closed and clamp at the same time. Watch your fingers, they can come off.
Better way is to use an old puller that has the no thread portion cut off and washer on the other end. Only have to remove the clutch bolt for that one.
Better way is to use an old puller that has the no thread portion cut off and washer on the other end. Only have to remove the clutch bolt for that one.
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I am new to cat as well, but from what I can tell, it appears to do any work on the Primary it would be considerably easier to take it off. Problem is taking the primary off is NO easy game. I wrenched my puller as hard as I could get it, and still had to knock it real hard with a sledge hammer. The local sled shop says this does not harm the engine, but I think it can't be very good for the crank bearing and the like. Funny thing was,with a good solid knock with the sledge it popped right off.
No you dont. You can pull the screws out of the outer sheave. Just use common sense and loosen each a little at a time, when u get close to having all the bolts out, push in on the outer cover and pull the bolts all the way out. Or you can go to the hardware store and buy a bolt and washers and thread it into the center bolt hole to compress the clutch.
just used this method myself and it makes it real easy, i used a 1ft long piece of all thread to thread into the crank, then a large washer and nut to compress the clutch. mine tool a 1/2in x 20 thread
Don't beat on the end of your puller too hard! Like you said, not good on bearings. Put some water in the hole before threading in the puller and use hydraulics to help pop the clutch off. Get it really tight and a few taps and it will come off.
A long screwdriver, 10" will work, but even longer is better, more leverage. Tape up the tip with duct tape, slip it in behind the spider, push handle toward engine after removing belt of course. Now is when you need the "c". You can make one fairly easy out of 3/16" X 1" X 7" ? I have one that isn't wide enough to fit in spot where I'd like to put it, which is in the opening where you can see spider. Mine is 6" total length, but was made for older clutch and I haven't got around to making another one. I think 7" would work, with approximately 1.5 " feet.I see you have adjustable weights and these would be easy to carry and adjust your weights in the field. I've done this myself. I've also just used an old weight and slipped it into space between the installed weight and roller. Then you can work on other 2, then change old weight location to one of the finished ones and get the 3rd one. Maybe I shouldn't have told you that, just watch your fingers, be careful when you let off pressure on screwdriver. In fact I'd bet if you talked to enough of the A-C mechanics they could tell you a big variety of things they put in there to hold clutch in collapsed position. Even using a "c" you need to excercise caution, screwdriver could slip.
