Your are correct. There is no replacement for real world results. As a mater of fact, I plugged my hoses when I first got my sled after reading your thread about things to do to make sled run better (very good thread) and had them plugged up until I re did my motor and went to Dynotech. I followed your thread to a T. I always thought that might be why my sled always ran and performed so good! I wanted to do my testing with them unplugged first and get a good map and then plug them and see what happen. I was also testing a SLP programed ECU for another guy while I was there and he also wanted me to plug hoses and test it. He would pay for the time. We were told not to waste time and that the solenoid and ecu need to work together. Also that it would be a bad idea to plug the hoses and strongly recommended NOT to do it. He said Sean Ray and Tim Bender (Polaris Factory snow cross race techs) spent a day on Dyno playing with exhaust valves with out any real gains. Jim is a stand up guy! I don't think he would lie or mislead!
I think the main reasons for multiple PC3-5 maps and why one would work fine for one guy but not the next. I really think the biggest reason was that the fuel pressure on these sleds are all over the place. Mine is 10lbs more than any other sled that was tested at Dynotech, and the other ones that were tested were not all the same either. If a guy who had 10lbs less pressure than me used my map he would have big problem!!! Other problem for multiple maps I think is people not cleaning there exhaust valves regularly and they become lazy and sticky then they don't open when they should. Another contributing factor I think is the TPS not being set right from factory. People like me and you and others fix that stuff our self's. Others don't under stand or don't care or have bad dealer who wont listen, so they just ride sled how they got it(TPS set wrong) and have issues. If you have all those issues and get a map from someone who has fixed those issues that map might not work for you.
If your just going from o-100% throttle all the time, i.e. drag racing you might feel/get more performance from plugged hoses and lighter springs. It's when your cruising half throttle or coasting then giving it 3/4 or more then back down to half or coasting then back on it again like in the woods or tight trails that plugged hoses will give you less bottom end cause exhaust vales are opening way to quick.
The article that Jim from DYNOTECH wrote states right in the bottom paragraph EXACTLY what MENTZEL post earlier here. That one way to fix the slow opening exhaust valves is to make the orifices in the cylinder and valve mechanism bigger!! He never says anything about plugging hoses or needing another map if you plugged hose's!! He does mention a couple other ways but plugging hoses is not one of them!
I'm also pretty sure that me and other people on here don't appreciate are ideas, comments, or theories being called BS. That is what this forum is here for. For people to ask questions or post help, and or advice. We all know everybody has there own opinions and some might be right and some not! I would never post anything on here that I didn't think was right or that I haven't experienced my self. I hope other people don't purposely post wrong or misleading info on here!!
Agree with most of^^^^^^^^^^^^^
You misunderstood my B.S. reference as it was not directed towards you at all. It was directed at all the naysayers that discourage others from simply trying it on the 100 other threads regarding plugging the exhaust valves. You know, the guys that know everything but haven't tried anything, probably had ancestors that told Columbus the world was flat.
Bottom line is try it, and I can tell you that from trail riding my D7, it is DEFINITELY more responsive on bottom end. Ditto for my bud's D7 that rides w/me.
Furthermore, when allowing the valves to open sooner, it allows the exhaust to exit the cylinder, thereby allowing for a cooler running engine, that INDY DAN also agrees with.
In addition, there is a thread in the PRO-RIDE section approx 1-2 months or so ago, where the O/P simply plugged the purge hose and reported improved response and acceleration.
No dyno, no theories, just tried it and it worked, plain & simple.
In addition to the fuel pressure issue you pointed out and I do agree with, is the 3 different colors (flow-rates) of fuel injectors, and the different maps to POSSIBLy match up with those.
I have a 2007 SEA-DOO SUPERCHARGED inter-cooled jet-ski. I added a high boost s/c wheel, external inter-cooler, 4" Air intake, etc. Stock it comes with 38lb. (as in 38 pounds of fuel per hour) injectors. When you mod it and it requires more fuel, you replace the 38's with 42's, or 50's etc. There are no such thing as (3) different 38's, (3) different 42's , etc. (And/or a Rising rate fuel pressure regulator that increases fuel pressure as boost rises)
Yet that's the mess POLARIS has with these CFI sleds. It's like they purchased a box-car full of injectors, manufactured in some 3rd World Country to save a buck, and after they got them, the realized the DISCREPANCY between them, did the band-aid fix of (3) different color ID's and corresponding maps
What a Kluster F***K!
Further proof of that is POLARIS is on , what their 3rd injector supplier and / or design?
Here' the philosophy I believe in;
Many years ago, they asked Bob Glidden, the winning-est driver in N.H.R.A. drag racing history, where his dyno was.
He responded pointing to the trailer, meaning the race car itself.
Whatever gets the car from point A to B quicker is all that matters................................................................