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Power Problem

Got a few questions for you guys who have had your ole 900 longer than me. Every time ive taken it out and am climbing a real steep hill or just get it straight up and down it sometimes cuts out or looses power. And if i let off the gas and let it drop and hammer back down it usually takes off no problem and with full power again. I dont know what could be causing this since the fuel injection. Any help would be great.

And I agree with you guys who say their sled doesnt like Champion plugs. I put in a new set last weekend cause I fouled a pto plug. Put in some new champions and by end of the day it was running good on 1/2 throttle and less, if i asked for more it wouldnt give me anymore. Just ran like it was fouling again.
 
Is it consistantly fouling same plug? Put a new set in and run it for an hour and pull plugs re-check, do this a couple times until you can confirm its a consistant problem. Sounds to me like a injector intermittantly sticking open. This could happen by a wire worn through and only making contact occasionally.
 
plugs

The plugs fouling isnt to often. I noticed my oil injection pump was stuck in the wide open position so that might be a culprit. It appeared to be that way for awhile. Only other time it fouls is if i try and ride before letting it warm up to above 90 degrees or so. But I think im going to get the injectors cleaned. Only have 650 miles on it though.
 
do some reseach on here for the FBF oiler cable..trust me...it will solve your oil pump cable issues for sure..stock cable is a POS.

do what highmark said for sure..if its the same plug all the time..there is an issue there..

also causes of intermittent hesitation is stator about to dump on you..

DO NOT even try and move you sled until its above 100 degrees...you need to let the crank warm...heat cycle the crank a few times before you move it, or you will be losing a PTO end soon enough..

welcome to snowest, and the sickest 900 forum you will ever find with awesome guys, and better info!
 
thanks

Thanks for the help guys. I will definently check into these ideas. Im not in the mood to drop a pto or stator!!

How would a guy check the stator to see if its going to die on me?

Whats a good way to clean the injectors by myself?

Any recomendations on gearing and clutching for Washington Snow? Im still running stock setup for the deep dry powder in Alaska.
 
if you dont get any inputs tonight..i will drop you some info on wed night...so check back then..have to take off now

or you can send me a PM whenever if you need help
 
Thanks for the help guys. I will definently check into these ideas. Im not in the mood to drop a pto or stator!!

How would a guy check the stator to see if its going to die on me?

Whats a good way to clean the injectors by myself?

Any recomendations on gearing and clutching for Washington Snow? Im still running stock setup for the deep dry powder in Alaska.

I think the best way to test if a stator is going bad is to simply change it out with a known good one. The stators on the 05s weren't all that great, lotsa failures.

As far as clutching setups, What track length is your sled, what elevations do you plan to ride? Where abouts in Wa. are you if you going to be riding don't mind, elevation? I think around here the generic 19/42 gearing, 10-72/10-74 weights and black/green or SLP blue/pink spring, and the 66/42/46 helix is about the best setup from what I have been reading on here.

Definitely let the sled warm up thoroughly. On my old 800 I would let it run till the running board coolers were warm/hot to the touch (no actual gauge) and then shut it off for a few till everyone was ready to ride, worked good.
 
when my stator started to go the sled would run for around 45 minutes or so at mid to low speed but like you said not that great at top end. Then as it went on it would **** down after getting warm. Pulled the stator sent it away it was bad

had it rebuilt and so far so good
 
You guys that are talking about the warm up cycle, what is the proper warm up cycle. I start it, let it run for a little bit, then turn it off and finish getting ready, then go ride.
 
Thats better than most, I let it warm up to temp, lift and loosen the track at home, then I shut it down and go get geared up. Then I putz down to the gas station and fill up then kill it and wait for everyone else. It takes time but WELL worth it.

Its all about warming it to temp and then shutting it down so the heat has time to soak into the crank properly. Takes a little while for all that steel to heat up.
 
Thats better than most, I let it warm up to temp, lift and loosen the track at home, then I shut it down and go get geared up. Then I putz down to the gas station and fill up then kill it and wait for everyone else. It takes time but WELL worth it.

Its all about warming it to temp and then shutting it down so the heat has time to soak into the crank properly. Takes a little while for all that steel to heat up.

BINGO!!!

keep doing this...let the crank heat up and warm up the clutch as well..

also make sure you guys are spinning your tracks a few rotations to "warm" the track..

i do 2-3 heat cycles on the engine, spin the track afew times, all before i move it to ride...
 
Do you know where you'll be riding in Washington? Off the top of my head I'm not sure what I'm running for gearing or clutching, but I'd recommend talking with Everett at Pierres Polaris or Dan Skagit Valley Polaris about their clutching and gearing setups for the 900's. Both shops are far and away the best Polaris shops in the area.

I'm running a 900 with a 166 that Pierres set up and its been amazing. I know they change the factory gearing, but for this track they also cuts custom weights.
 
Baker

I will mainly be riding Baker. I think we used to set up our sleds for around 4-5K ft. Im going to be stationed at Ft. Lewis so I will get with Pierres Polaris. We actually used to grass drag with him back in the day!!

Im also running a 159'' track, a Timbersled intake, and a can on it thats pretty damn loud but has no brand stamped on it. When its runnin good it will pull away from the 800 Dragons:beer;
 
Just checked and the gearing you should probably be running 19-41 for a 2006 with a 92 chain or 18-39 for a 2005.

You might also want to check out slednw.com. The three of us who started the site all ride 900's and we're up at baker almost every weekend. We've also got quite a few photos and videos of us riding at baker.
 
^^ cant run a 92 chain on an 06...its a 72 pitch i believe..chaincase is way smaller on the 06..

most are using 18/40 (stock chain) on the 05 900
and other are using 19/42 (stock chain) on the 06 700/900
 
thanks

thanks guys. i will play with it more once i get down to washington here in a month. cant wait to take it up baker and see how it goes. first time in my life will i have a bigger sled than my ole man. so it will be fair riding:beer;
 
not to hijack but if we could just go back to the warm up. i usualy start my sled before i leave. let it run till the coolant fully cycles and hits about 135 then shut it down, when i hit the trail i start it get it out of the truck/trailer and let it hit 135 -140 again then go. that sound good or should i let it warm up to say 140-150? my thermostat is 120-125 ish just curious on the warm up
 
The plugs fouling isnt to often. I noticed my oil injection pump was stuck in the wide open position so that might be a culprit. It appeared to be that way for awhile. Only other time it fouls is if i try and ride before letting it warm up to above 90 degrees or so. But I think im going to get the injectors cleaned. Only have 650 miles on it though.

I would install a new FBF throttle cable and see how it runs. The injectors should be ok and clean up with fresh fuel at only 650 miles on them. Make sure your thumb throttle lever is nice and tight or your sled will cut out from the built in kill switch. Make sure the y-pipe bolts are tight. If that doesn't work I'd replace the TPS harness.
 
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