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powder coat running boards with glue still in?

Since the ends are also riveted in.. the glue will not move and will re-solidify.

BUT.... BIG BUT.. Make sure that your powdercoater is paying attention to the bake time on the part and that your powder coater is not "burning off" any dirt/oils in a hot oven before powder coating.... Or your parts will become soft and bendable.


MAX 350 oven temp for low cycle times... with low temp powders.


from a Previous thread.



Common aluminum alloys (6061, 2024, etc) have a heat treatment process (precipitation hardening) that is usually in the 350F-375F temperature range. If you heat the chassis to 400F you will be messing with the structural integrity of your sled.

Maintaining strength of the alloys is one of the big reasons for using glue instead of welding - the heat affected (weld) zone loses its strength properties.


Powder Coating after Bonding with LORD® 400 Series
Acrylic Adhesives


The LORD® 400 series acrylic adhesives have excellent heat resistance characteristics up to 400°F (204°C), reducing the concern of possible degradation of the cured adhesive due to heat during the powder coating process. (There is data for heat resistance at 400°F [204°C] up to 1000 hours.)


However, it is important to keep in mind that at these higher temperatures, the hot tear strength is very low. The lower strength values make it essential that the assembly is properly fixtured or placed to avoid slippage of the bonded pieces, especially if they are heavy in nature. Spot welds are frequently used in the industry to hold the assembly in place.


The integrity of the bond will remain unchanged, and in fact increase, once the assemblies have returned to room temperature.


A frequently asked question is “Why does the adhesive look orange/tan in color after exposure to heat instead of the light green we are accustomed to seeing after normal room temperature cure?” This color change can typically occur because of the higher temperatures seen during typical painting and E-coat processes.


The integrity of the bond after either one of these processes should remain unchanged,
and in fact increase, once the assemblies have returned back to room temperature.

Some shops are excellent and have great control over the temps in the oven... others... not so much... be careful like you did and most will be happy with the results.. support the assy VERY well when doing the pow coat to distribute load and minimize the possibility of problems... and LOW TEMPS ONLY.


As I mentioned above... the low temp powders are a much better choice...longer "soak" times IMO should be kept to a minimum.


With all of the highly engineered chassis systems in our sleds today... eg. structural bonding, casting, specific alloy construction... It would be best to err on the side of caution IMO.


 
I have powder coated 4 sets and no issues. I have trimed away the extra glue that squeezes out before I get them powder coated.
 
I have powder coated 4 sets and no issues. I have trimed away the extra glue that squeezes out before I get them powder coated.

When you had the 4 sets done, did they use a normal process at 400 degrees or did you make sure they were baking at 350? I am having trouble finding someone in my area that uses low temp powders
 
Where are you in N.Cal?

Heat time is as critical as the temp... some pow coaters will put them in with fence posts and tractor parts... and kill the heat treat of the aluminum.

I know some of you think that this is "BS" but I've watched rails ruined and other parts turned soft... A good powdercoater is worth the energy to find.

Some have good powdercoaters... some dont.



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I did mine with .7 of a mile, sled was still brand new. Hit 1100 miles on the weekend. No visible signs of weekening or damage
 
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POR-15

I did mine with .7 of a mile, sled was still brand new. Hit 1100 miles on the weekend. No visible signs of weekending or damage

Sounds like you have a good quality shop... I've seen some that are not so lucky.

As an alternative to powder coating... I've had great luck with this paint.

POR-15 in black...

If you sandblast or etch the part before ... this stuff is a durable as any powder coat that I've seen...

http://www.thefinishedlook.com/PartsDetail.cfm?Product=3

Although the description says "POR-15 is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be top coated before prolonged exposure to sunlight."

I've not had a problem with this... when stored ... my sled is indoors or under its cover... The limited amount of sunlight it sees will not cause problems... I have a truck bumper that was coated many years ago... always exposed to sun... a bit of dulling but no problem with the finish itself.

Plus... you put this stuff on with a paintbrush and it flows out nice and smooth...

They are based out of Sacto... so you would have it in one day...

POR-15Cans.jpg
 
Has anyone had the powder coating chip off the running boards?? I did mine with them glued in and had no troubles with that, but where i have my feet most of the time the coating is chipping of the top of the spikes. It is even chipping off a little on the inside of the openings!:mad2:
 
Yes mine is wearing off where my feet are Its not chipping but wearing. I can tell by shape of the powder coat. Edges are smooth not sharp. I have some chipping on the spindles from impacts with willows though
 
Where are you in N.Cal?

Heat time is as critical as the temp... some pow coaters will put them in with fence posts and tractor parts... and kill the heat treat of the aluminum.

I know some of you think that this is "BS" but I've watched rails ruined and other parts turned soft... A good powdercoater is worth the energy to find.

Some have good powdercoaters... some dont.

.

I am in Chico. I have discused some stuff before with you about tracks. I ride with Jesse often

I got some running boards off a 2013 that I am going to put on my 2011. I have talked to 4 different powder coaters in chico that dont do low temp stuff.

Could I have the boards anodized?
 
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