I have a new pro 13 ...has anyone powder coated their running boards with the glue in it sill will it effect it or what???
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Common aluminum alloys (6061, 2024, etc) have a heat treatment process (precipitation hardening) that is usually in the 350F-375F temperature range. If you heat the chassis to 400F you will be messing with the structural integrity of your sled.
Maintaining strength of the alloys is one of the big reasons for using glue instead of welding - the heat affected (weld) zone loses its strength properties.
Powder Coating after Bonding with LORD® 400 Series
Acrylic Adhesives
The LORD® 400 series acrylic adhesives have excellent heat resistance characteristics up to 400°F (204°C), reducing the concern of possible degradation of the cured adhesive due to heat during the powder coating process. (There is data for heat resistance at 400°F [204°C] up to 1000 hours.)
However, it is important to keep in mind that at these higher temperatures, the hot tear strength is very low. The lower strength values make it essential that the assembly is properly fixtured or placed to avoid slippage of the bonded pieces, especially if they are heavy in nature. Spot welds are frequently used in the industry to hold the assembly in place.
The integrity of the bond will remain unchanged, and in fact increase, once the assemblies have returned to room temperature.
A frequently asked question is “Why does the adhesive look orange/tan in color after exposure to heat instead of the light green we are accustomed to seeing after normal room temperature cure?” This color change can typically occur because of the higher temperatures seen during typical painting and E-coat processes.
The integrity of the bond after either one of these processes should remain unchanged, and in fact increase, once the assemblies have returned back to room temperature.
Some shops are excellent and have great control over the temps in the oven... others... not so much... be careful like you did and most will be happy with the results.. support the assy VERY well when doing the pow coat to distribute load and minimize the possibility of problems... and LOW TEMPS ONLY.
As I mentioned above... the low temp powders are a much better choice...longer "soak" times IMO should be kept to a minimum.
With all of the highly engineered chassis systems in our sleds today... eg. structural bonding, casting, specific alloy construction... It would be best to err on the side of caution IMO.
I have powder coated 4 sets and no issues. I have trimed away the extra glue that squeezes out before I get them powder coated.
I did mine with .7 of a mile, sled was still brand new. Hit 1100 miles on the weekend. No visible signs of weekending or damage
Where are you in N.Cal?
Heat time is as critical as the temp... some pow coaters will put them in with fence posts and tractor parts... and kill the heat treat of the aluminum.
I know some of you think that this is "BS" but I've watched rails ruined and other parts turned soft... A good powdercoater is worth the energy to find.
Some have good powdercoaters... some dont.
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