Powder coat or paint axys a arms?
- Thread starter m7extreme
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Mine are being done now, Either way coating them will help keep the snow off.
As said before I have been powder coating my stuff for many years with out any Know issues. If it causes my A-arms to bend or break before the bulkhead i am ok with that. I have yet to see any direct issues from doing so. With that said there is a temp that is to high or a time that is too long for each type of metal to where it will loose it strength.
For the shop that I have always and only used, it is done at 400 degrees with no longer than 30 min bake time.
I will be painting mine, perks of being a painter I guess
I'm still on the fence. I was going to pair mine but I'm hesitant to tear it apart because it's so perfect!
S
snowmobiler
Well-known member
i got tools.lets R & R the engine too.LOL
I'm leaning towards painting with por-15 then a nice clear over it or gloss back to keep from fading
POR-15 paint gets my vote as well... If you are going with Black Silver or Gray.
IMO... no need to over paint it unless your ride spends a lot of time, when not in use, in the sun... I have a POR 15 coated truck bumper that has been on for a LONG time... no issues... It lives under a lean-to, but gets out in the sun a lot in the last 15 years or so.
Make sure to use a good degreaser on them first... then a light etch like "AlumaPrep"... and then Brush on the POR 15... right on the aluminum... it will come out looking like you've sprayed it. Also... Wear gloves, the only thing that gets POR-15 off your skin is time.
If you have an EXCELLENT powder coater... probably no issues...but remember... these are pretty "techie" forged alloy parts... I'd hate to remove any strength....
If your powdercoater is putting your parts into bake with the fence posts from the highway commission... or tells you "Our ovens don't get hot enough to cause problems" OR... they do a high temp "Bake off" to get clean the parts first...walk away!
Prep with powder coating is just as important as with paint... the parts have to be etched or blasted before coating.
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IMO... no need to over paint it unless your ride spends a lot of time, when not in use, in the sun... I have a POR 15 coated truck bumper that has been on for a LONG time... no issues... It lives under a lean-to, but gets out in the sun a lot in the last 15 years or so.
Make sure to use a good degreaser on them first... then a light etch like "AlumaPrep"... and then Brush on the POR 15... right on the aluminum... it will come out looking like you've sprayed it. Also... Wear gloves, the only thing that gets POR-15 off your skin is time.
If you have an EXCELLENT powder coater... probably no issues...but remember... these are pretty "techie" forged alloy parts... I'd hate to remove any strength....
If your powdercoater is putting your parts into bake with the fence posts from the highway commission... or tells you "Our ovens don't get hot enough to cause problems" OR... they do a high temp "Bake off" to get clean the parts first...walk away!
Prep with powder coating is just as important as with paint... the parts have to be etched or blasted before coating.
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The shop I use only and always blasts them first.
I don't have my sks yet and I don't remember since I was at the unveiling in west Yellowstone are the a arms smooth or rougher like might have to sand first so paint not crappy when done
I'm doing it only cus looks. I hate the look of old stock pro bumper minute it gets little sapling bark on it, looks nasty. My buddy's 14 pro 260 miles on it has more bark than my 10 yr old chainsaw on it my 15 with 700 miles cus white painted bumper not a spot of bark lol. I'm anal about keeping it clean so that's why I'm doing it
Yes
MH, I agree, POR-15 is some great stuff! Im surprised more people haven't tried it. Ive used it for years on anything that gets really beat up. The only problem with it being so tuff is like MH said the only thing that gets it off your skin is time. Only use brushes that you want to throw away. It paints on thin and the brush marks self level so it looks like its sprayed. Once you open the can the air and humidity activate it. So either have another project "prepped" to paint or don't open the lid. I just poke a hole in the top to pour and another to vent. Then I tape them shut when done if I'm trying to save the rest. Follow the instructions completely if you haven't used it. Anyone that hasn't had excellent results from POR-15 missed a step. If I can do it a thousand times anyone can do it
Another product by POR-15 is a brilliant Two-Component Clear Coating as quoted from their web site:
GLISTEN PC is a High Gloss, Rock Hard, Water-clear topcoat designed for spray or brush application over all metal surfaces, including highly polished aluminum and chrome surfaces. GLISTEN PC will not leave brushmarks, and will dry in less than one hour, but will take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness.
When GLISTEN PC is first dry to the touch, it will appear to be very soft. Avoid touching it for several days until it becomes hard and tough. Accidental contact could damage the surface before full cure has taken place. Like many other coatings, GLISTEN PC is a MOISTURE-CURED coating, which means it is strengthened by exposure to moisture. It will never crack, chip, peel, or yellow, and is very flexible as well.
Note: When applying over polished metals (aluminum, chrome, brass, copper etc) you must use AP120 metal prep according to instructions.
IDEAL USES: As a protective coating on aluminum wheels, chrome bumpers, marine railings, chrome or aluminum covers, grills, handles, ornaments, lights, etc
GLISTEN PC is a High Gloss, Rock Hard, Water-clear topcoat designed for spray or brush application over all metal surfaces, including highly polished aluminum and chrome surfaces. GLISTEN PC will not leave brushmarks, and will dry in less than one hour, but will take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness.
When GLISTEN PC is first dry to the touch, it will appear to be very soft. Avoid touching it for several days until it becomes hard and tough. Accidental contact could damage the surface before full cure has taken place. Like many other coatings, GLISTEN PC is a MOISTURE-CURED coating, which means it is strengthened by exposure to moisture. It will never crack, chip, peel, or yellow, and is very flexible as well.
Note: When applying over polished metals (aluminum, chrome, brass, copper etc) you must use AP120 metal prep according to instructions.
IDEAL USES: As a protective coating on aluminum wheels, chrome bumpers, marine railings, chrome or aluminum covers, grills, handles, ornaments, lights, etc
POR 15
Heard of this stuff before, where does a guy get some?
Heard of this stuff before, where does a guy get some?
As stated above it goes bad once opened so for just the a arms I was planning on getting a por 15 starter kit off eBay or Amazon for 20 bucks shipped
From what I remember from my old truck it's like a semi-gloss but it's been a while since I used it
It comes in flat, semi gloss, and gloss black, silver, gray, and clear. I used it on a couple of trucks I had a while back, it worked awesome on the rusty frame (and I mean awesome) but I couldn't get it to stick to the rocker panels. Scuffed them with a DA sander, and wiped down with paint thinner before applying and after a month or so it peeled off like plastidip. I think I'll stick with powdercoat on mine.
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