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Powder addiction Head. Yes or NO

Put mine on half way through season, was added power but IMO better mods are out there.

Mine's up for sale in Calgary, pm me for sweet deal.

What's the compression? Looking for a 13:1 version in billet (not cheater).

Thanks,

G
 
Come on, I know where the motor should rev. I did add weight. I started at 62 and it wouldn't pull it over 10k. But stock I had the Pro at about 58.5. So I used 60's with the head. I also added the ethanol fuel plug back in as soon as this happened and the sled was happy.

Got the det light as well, changed back to the E plug, light went out. Had the shop run codes, my resister had failed, 35 dollar test and a 3 dollar part fixed it.
 
Yes, I would consider the PA with Clutching to be a good Stage 1 motor mod without the need of doing the pipe and fuel controller. I run the 12.5 head with Fastrax clutching and have been very pleased with the mid range performance. It makes the sled snappier. Like mentioned before there is no top end gain but I do like having the stronger mid range for most all around riding. I felt it made my sled more fun when boondocking, ditch banging those trails into the mountain, wheeling, cookies, short climbs where you need the mid range due to no entry speed, etc.

Only negative I would see is if you have a long warranty and don't want to mess with that. I only had a one year warranty on my 2011 so getting the PA head was a no brainer.
 
I have been increasing the compression on all of my ktm 300 2 strokes for years with awesome results. I am ordering a 13.1 power addiction head from brad for my 13 pro rmk 600. I ride 6-10k and know this will be a great mod in combination with the Carl's clutch kit I got.
 
i seen a buddy put brads 12.5 head on 2012 rush 800 and nothing else was done to the sled besides some clutching work

and i ran a pcv with clutching work and he couldnt look at me...from the time with started to finish he was behind me the whole way


he was 1-2 lengths behind me....i was not impressed at all,
specially what hp gains he claims to get from it

i was going to order one myself and after seeing this first hand i will not be ordering! best of luck to anyone who orders

not bashing the porduct or brad himself! just giving my 2 cents like everyone else
there is alot more reviews of the head working amazing but i just didnt see it

maybe the 13.1 heads run great but were unable to run them at sea level


i think compression went up 5lbs
 
Cranking compression and compression ratio are two completely different animals. Remember that fuel is your number one enemy. You can run 13.1 at sea level but GOOD 91 octane is a must. Just because the pump says 91 doesn't mean that is what actually is going in the tank. IMO if you want an aftermarket head and you want to "feel" the difference, run a higher compression than pump fuel for your elevation and add enough race fuel accordingly otherwise the gains are minimal for the amount invested.

A few years ago the rule of thumb was:
13.1 0-3K
13.5 3-6K
14.1 6-9K
14.7 9K plus

Now with fuel quality dropping at the pump those numbers still hold true, BUT 1-2 gallons of race fuel is needed in order to keep detonation under control. If no race gas is available or not wanted you need to drop the ratio to:
12.5 0-3K
13.1 3-6K
13.5 6-9K
14.1 9-12K
14.7 12K plus

So far this has worked pretty good as of late.
Also, SOME of the aftermarket head builders for SOME of the manufacturers require a leaner mixture in order for the head to work properly, if the sled is running rich because of a more efficient head performance will be down. The DET threshold will be raised but overall perfromance will be down as well.

Lastly remember that the squish should be measured and followed to the head builders recommended dimensions. Too tight of squish can cause problems and too loose can cause a loss in performance. Not always a bolt on and go.

Holy cow that got long, sorry to drag on.
 
Cranking compression and compression ratio are two completely different animals. Remember that fuel is your number one enemy. You can run 13.1 at sea level but GOOD 91 octane is a must. Just because the pump says 91 doesn't mean that is what actually is going in the tank. IMO if you want an aftermarket head and you want to "feel" the difference, run a higher compression than pump fuel for your elevation and add enough race fuel accordingly otherwise the gains are minimal for the amount invested.

A few years ago the rule of thumb was:
13.1 0-3K
13.5 3-6K
14.1 6-9K
14.7 9K plus

Now with fuel quality dropping at the pump those numbers still hold true, BUT 1-2 gallons of race fuel is needed in order to keep detonation under control. If no race gas is available or not wanted you need to drop the ratio to:
12.5 0-3K
13.1 3-6K
13.5 6-9K
14.1 9-12K
14.7 12K plus

So far this has worked pretty good as of late.
Also, SOME of the aftermarket head builders for SOME of the manufacturers require a leaner mixture in order for the head to work properly, if the sled is running rich because of a more efficient head performance will be down. The DET threshold will be raised but overall perfromance will be down as well.

Lastly remember that the squish should be measured and followed to the head builders recommended dimensions. Too tight of squish can cause problems and too loose can cause a loss in performance. Not always a bolt on and go.

Holy cow that got long, sorry to drag on.

I am not surprised he did not see much difference with a 12.5 head. Stock is 12.1.
 
I, and a few friends, ran the 13.1:1 PA head on our '12 Pro's last season from 3000-7000 feet with no issues as long as we had honest 91 octane fuel. It definitely made my sled more responsive and pull harder through the midrange. As others have stated, not much extra on the top end. For boondocking, it is a worthwhile mod, IMHO.


Sent from my iPad when I should be fishing.
 
I am very happy with my 13:1 head and hps can on my assault riding at 3k to 6k. Brad said it will also work well with the fix kit which will be getting installed this yr.
 
run the stock head for a couple hundred miles, put the PA head on. If something happens, put the stock head back on. They'll never know.

Until your engine goes and leave ring chunks in the head and piston, happened to me but will see what warantee says with stock head back on. I had a 13.1 on and didnt notice any difference with MDS clutching. Thats just me though. It is a nice product and good quality but just not there for me. Going back to stock.
 
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