post season maintenance
- Thread starter St0rm77
- Start date
S
St0rm77
Active member
quick response there 2xM3, i was gonna start it off with what i was gonna do, but you beat me to it!
1) pull motor and thinking of doing 'the fix'
2) change track for a CE. while in there, change skid bearings, and replace busted grease zerk.
3) pull gas
4) whatever else can be done via case of
and some sun in the back yard!
1) pull motor and thinking of doing 'the fix'
2) change track for a CE. while in there, change skid bearings, and replace busted grease zerk.
3) pull gas
4) whatever else can be done via case of
and some sun in the back yard!
S
SaskRMK
Active member
check compression because you probably need a new top end
Inspect clutches for wear, ensure bushings on weights are intact, ensure weight bolts are not worn, inspect clutches for play and replace fiber bushings accordingly. might as well inspect belt for threads or cracking while your down there
pull chain case cover check for damage, wipe clean, reinstall cover and refill with synthetic fluid.
Pull exhaust valves check for torn bellow, damage to blade/shaft, clean thoroughly and ensure top nut is torqued to 16 foot pounds, red loctite never hurts. make sure gasket is completely removed and reinstall valve with new gaskets.
check front end bushings/endlinks for damage or play ensure everything is torqued properly
check skid and put a wrench on every bolt/nut, grease zerk fittings, check idler wheel bearings, track tension.
Its very important to me that i park my sled in near perfection shape so next time the snow falls i'm ready to ride. This list could go on and on
GL
Inspect clutches for wear, ensure bushings on weights are intact, ensure weight bolts are not worn, inspect clutches for play and replace fiber bushings accordingly. might as well inspect belt for threads or cracking while your down there
pull chain case cover check for damage, wipe clean, reinstall cover and refill with synthetic fluid.
Pull exhaust valves check for torn bellow, damage to blade/shaft, clean thoroughly and ensure top nut is torqued to 16 foot pounds, red loctite never hurts. make sure gasket is completely removed and reinstall valve with new gaskets.
check front end bushings/endlinks for damage or play ensure everything is torqued properly
check skid and put a wrench on every bolt/nut, grease zerk fittings, check idler wheel bearings, track tension.
Its very important to me that i park my sled in near perfection shape so next time the snow falls i'm ready to ride. This list could go on and on
GL
I
IndoubtGASIT
Well-known member
I agree with modsledr!!! Way too much snow to even be thinking about being done!
O
outlawfish
New member
couple questions, comment. First yeah we have lots of snow yet so will be riding for a while.
What should compression be after 5 pulls, also this may be a straight forward question but what methods do you guys use to shampoo or clean under the hood to get rid of all winters oil residues, dirt, belt dusts etc so that the underhood stays clean and new looking.
What should compression be after 5 pulls, also this may be a straight forward question but what methods do you guys use to shampoo or clean under the hood to get rid of all winters oil residues, dirt, belt dusts etc so that the underhood stays clean and new looking.
S
SaskRMK
Active member
Spray with brake cleaner and then wipe under the hood it should break down any of the oils in my engine bay. Compression depends at elevation but around 120-125 is what fresh engine should see. Your more looking to make sure that each cylinder is not to far off from each other.
