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Poor mans build?

Awesome build man.

Few questions:

Don't your knees hit the handlebars with the seat at that angle?

What are you trying to accomplish with the sled? Lighter? More power? Reliable until you can walk into Howie's and 'check a new one?

What kinda riding you do? Do you hang out with Bryce and Ryley and those boys with turbo's and all the pimp sht?

Few tips if you want to go further with the build:

Forward mount the steering post. But if you ride hard, you'll want a new post. Wildchild or CR Racing both offer kits. I used a Wahl bearing mout and CR's offset post. Totally new sled.

Front suspension - 1M front end off a '03+ will net you big weight savings, along with more travel and newer spindles and housings. Steering arms will need to be cut and tapped to fit.

Rear skid - pretty much anything '06 + will net you a good 15-20lb savings. You don't need anything expensive like a Kmod or Timber. Just a solid stock skid from any Pol, Cat, Doo that came stock in the last 5 years. Some are better than others, I prefer Pol('08+) and Cat('09+) but find out what you want to spend on something for the weight savings. Spacers or longer axles will be needed because your tunnel is wider.

Hood - BR Tech makes a wickedly light hood, I'm sure with all the Cat boys in PG someone has a lightweight hood they got kickin around the shop somewhere. If not, I do have a fiberglass mold and I pop a few out as I need them.

Power - twin pipes and '94-95 electrical system(stator, cdi, etc etc) and a simple blueprint of the motor(cylinder to case ports can use a lot of work to flow properly). Shave the intake boots to move the carbs closer to the motor(helps responsiveness).
I also swear by UFO's for this motor. Smooths out fuel delivery and helps with throttle response again.

I had 10,000 Miles on my bottom end before it let loose. I did open it up when I installed the 790 kit and had the entire motor balanced. Made a huge difference in engine life, not to mention clutch life and the smoothness of the entire sled.

Recap:
Front and rear skids can be bought used and for great deals considering you're drastically dropping weight both front and rear.
Hood saves mucho weight as well. I run a LeadDog light and chucked the heavy stock light.

Nice project man, keep us updated and if you need any help, let us know. Few of us have done this a few times......

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Hey thanks for all the info Reeb, I was wondering about changing the front suspension to the newer, Im pretty much just trying to get it as good as i can for farely cheap till I can get a new one. Hopefully this week I will get to do some more work this week, been busy working on the house, but that means house stuff is out of my shop now. :face-icon-small-hap I plan on doing the forward post this week and polish the tunnel mabe get a new set of skis. unless I find a cheap set of good used if anyone knows of a set? Fix the rear skid a bit I have found some issues. Fix the jetting cause since the rebuild my jetting seems to have changed, not sure if this is the new can, or the fresh motor or the case work I did :face-icon-small-con was running 370 jets at about 12 on the afg now at 14.5 so thinking a 400 main will do the job. and unfortunatly I dont ride with anyone right now really, everyone either got rid of theirs or arent as die hard as me so I dont get out as much as I like too. So far the seat is really nice just the bars need to be higher, well see the first real ride out.
 
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so this weekend i got some of the suspension fixed, and attempted to change the front shocks only to find out zr and powder special have two different front ends, but i did get the seat wedge scraped and polished as well as the tunnel. Not the greatest photo and the polish job but its an old tunnel so what do you do. Looks much better then b4.

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Get those bars forward and up!
I had CR make my post a bit higher, and bolted on some 9" risers to go with flat sno-x bars. I think your bars are in the 7" rise range? I had them for a bit, then bolted them on my little brothers 440 for a few years.(Last year I bolted on the newer cat bars and 6" billets cause he grew a bit - also has the forward mount)

My sled with my risers in relation to the tank and seat. 37" from running board to bottom of handlebars. Notice the tapered Ekholm tunnel on my sled. 151"

Little Bro's set-up as I was installing. Newer bars start bending a pinch early so slight modification is needed on the upper clamps.

Harder to see in this pic but good idea. This sled is a '99 Snopro with a 141x2.25 CE and '05 KingCat front end complete with ti springs. I can't remember the weight savings exactly but we were in the 13-16lb range(stock 41" Snopro front end with Fox Res shocks) It was 436lbs out of the crate, and I took 15+ off the front with the skis swap and swaybar removal included. Just over 20lbs swapping the 121" rear(All wheels removed, running inner idlers only) with a 141" hybrid of '06 M7 skid and '09 rails. Hood saved another 10+lbs and it could have been more w/o a headlight. Seat was about 6lbs, etc etc. There's lots more and the weights are off the top of my head, I did write them down somewhere. Maybe I'll look through some threads. I even saved weight with the track swap(121x2 Bighorn) to the 141CE.

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Thanks for all the info reeb, I got a set of 02 Mountain cat skis on it this week, but still having issues with jetting if anyone can help? at an idle it likes to backfire/pop and has a low end bog, once you get it cleaned up it goes good but runs lean, last year I ran good on my af gauge (12) but this year its running lean (14.5), after the rebuild I got rid of the homemade stinger and bought a snow stuff, I also shaved the sharp edge off in the case below the reeds. So could the homemade stinger have been throwing off the af gauge, or could the new one and the case clean have made that much of a diff? last years jets were .370 and now I have .400 with very little change on the gauge (13.2), thinking of jumping to a .440. I was told the low end bog is probably a lean condition? needles are set as high as can go, never touched the pilots. The gauge doesn't register at an idle should it?
 
It is a lean bog. I run AA-0 tubes in mine. If you want the d/l on these motors, there's one guy in BC that knows them better than the back of his hand.
250-851-0084 ask for Robin. He's in Kamloops.
 
Polishing the tunnel

Hey mate if you really wanna polish up that tunnel the liquid aluminum polish doesnt work, ya need to get a polishing kit you can pick them up from most auto parts stores for bout 30 bucks and then have a variable speed drill or grinder you can put a polishing pad on and it will turn out how i have mine done, took me about 3 hours to get it right. I like the idea of your tail lights and might give that a try with mine as i took my big bulky one off a while back.

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