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pole building/barn question

I am building a 36x48 with 12x48 lean tos 14' walls. I have to notch the poles 6x8s and flush my trusses. this leaves me only 3 inches of post between my trusses. I have a set of crank boxes to hoist the roof, but I am a bit sketchy on the strenght of the post through the skinny area for my truss'.

also I am going commercial girt, so I can't frame up my walls before I raise the roof.

am I being a puss, or is there something I am leaving out?
 
I had to notch my posts, had tripled up two by tens. I had less than 3" and then I sandwitched the trusses with a 1/4 steel plate.

I'm at 17' to the eve and used a crane...much faster, much easier. If you can get a couple of buddies together to nail up some 2 by 4s inbetween the trusses it's definetly the way to go.

My posts werent in the best of shape. Twisted,cork-screwing pieces of junk. They split and check up on ya if you look at them wrong. Be careful either way..
 
Sounds way different than mine. I buile a pole barn two summers ago. My trusses went on the outside of the poles on two sides, I then had to notch the north side of the poles for the trusses for the inside poles. The trusses were 1 1/2 wide, and my posts were 6X6's so I had a lot of room left. You definitely want straight poles so everthing is square. Much, Much easier in the end.
 
carriage bolts through to tighten the trusses through the post, no worries.

Yeah, I used carriage bolts as well. My shop is so stout that even in these windy Wyoming days, it doesn't move at all. In dry soil like what is around here, pole barns are the way to go. I am sure the treated posts will be around a lot longer than me.
 
Yeah, I used carriage bolts as well. My shop is so stout that even in these windy Wyoming days, it doesn't move at all. In dry soil like what is around here, pole barns are the way to go. I am sure the treated posts will be around a lot longer than me.

Here in the people's republic of wershingtin the counties have all followed King county and have to build your stuff to withstand a direct hit from an asteroid.
 
I am not worried about the securing of the trusses, it is the cranking that I am stressing. I have cranked them before on flush mounts with plates under them. but the fact that the pole has lost sooooo much of its strenght due to the notch, and I have to mount my winch above that.

building013.jpg
 
you can't swing em into place?? ( hook onto each top rail and swing up)

on the last 4 we've built around here, we put our wall boards up (girts?), 2x6 or 2x4 depending on how many etc. doubled our top rail,(one inside and one outside of post) swung our trusses into place, secured em with hurricane anchors, put our boards on our trusses(purlins?) sheeted her and done, with the extendaboom your have there you could lift em into place also,

just my .02
 
Why do you have to notch both sides of the posts? With mine (16X40) I set the posts, put on the girts, header for 8X10 door, framed in the windows and side door. I then notched the one side of my posts like I mentioned earlier, put up the trusses, then the purlins, of course making sure everything was square while doing so. I ended up being about an inch off at the peak compared to the end at the walls. It was my own fault, I shouldn't have followed the blue prints. The prints were computer generated and didn't take into account some of the factors that changed the measurements. I took some log chain and a come along and tightened it up some, though I couldn't make up for the whole inch. I am a perfectionist and learned that when hanging the metal siding and roof that being perfectly square makes that job much easier.
 
The shear strength of a 3"x8" timber would be in the tons. The main force for your poles will be load, not the shear. One square inch of wood will crush with a load of just over a ton.
 
here in my county we now have to notch toe pole.....its a pain. our 40x100 does not have notches and has withstood 30 winters.

I am not worried about crushing it, but when we start cranking it is gonna wiggle a bit, I just don't want to snap it off at the notch.

thanks.
 
You could tie of the top so it does not split (check), this way it could only shear off. No use worrying about it, it is done a done deal, no going back now. Just remember they used timbers in the mines not because they were stronger than steel but because they made noises before they failed.
 
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A buddy of mine did a pole barn this year and it was increadably easy. One day we were on the deck drinking beer and a truck showed up, dropped off a bunch of stuff, and like magic, after a few days there was a barn. Just wish the "Barn Knomes" would have run the electrical and hung the lights (Ron doesn't like 16' step ladders on gravel).
 
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