POLARIS GURUS - I Need Your Help

[BlowinSmoke]

CDK I was experiencing a few issues myself after putting together a RK Tek big bore. Sled ran well for a good 300 + miles. Slowly my sled started having a stumble on high end. I tried endless acts of replacing and checking parts. I put the sled back to 100% stock and it continued to cut out with random misfiring on top end. That's when I really started thinking my issues leaned more towards electrical not a fueling issues.

I dug into my owners manual and looked up what all the sleds sensors should read for ohms.
With a good volt meter I was able to determine the stator had very high readings on one side. I then followed the diagram to see what was all effected by this. The stator which provided power to my fuel pump, coils, and numerous other components was receiving unstable and changing currents causing my engine to miss fire.

So after reading you post. I truly believe if you find a manual or get those values from your dealer. Take the time to ohm out your system you'll more then likely find which component is the problem child.

Good luck...

 

[CDK]

Sounds similar to my problems.

I finally found the stator details in my service manual. Here's the ohm readings you should be checking for, for anyone following along.

 

[CDK]

I'm leaning towards a failure in the DC Chassis Coil. I'll test tonight and see if I'm right.

 

[CDK]

As far as I can tell, my stator is good. Next question: does my sled NEED the capacitor to run? Every time I put power to the ECU, it primes the fuel pump. Then I can roll it over and it will fire for a couple beats and die. It does that same thing every time I repeat that process. I tried unplugging the capacitor, and it does the exact same thing.

Would this indicate a problem with the capacitor?

Edit: never mind, tested capacitor and it is good.

I'm running out of ideas fellas.

 

[Danny Dangles]

I broke a wire on my Throttle Safety Switch this winter, this caused the exact symptoms you describe. Not that you hit a tree or anything like me, but without the throttle safety switch (or proper inline resistor) the sled will not stay running... just an idea....

I am curious if you could just disable the TSS with the vipec for testing purposes?

Please don't eliminate it and ride it though, I just wrote off my 12' turbo doing this......hit a tree with about 7psi of boost doing about 60kmh...

 

[CDK]

TSS is gone, removed it when I installed my billet throttle block. I use a tether 100% instead.

You can actually see the status of the "hard stop" wiring in the ViPec software, which includes your kill switch, TSS, and tether. I have eliminated this as a problem.

Thanks for the suggestion though!

 

[NapaMatt]

You have a bad STATOR!

you can use a DVOM.. and test the stator.. with out turning engine over..

something like this..

1) YELLOW to YELLOW 0.13 OHMS

2) GREEN/RED to GREEN/YELLOW 15 OHMS

3) GREEN/RED to BROWN/WHITE 30 ohms

4) BLUE/YELLOW to BLUE/YELLOW 2.4 ohms

5) WHITE/RED to WHITE 190 ohms

6) WHITE/GREEN to GREEN 190 ohms

7) BROWN /WHITE to GROUND 0 ohms

 

[High Voltage]

Stators can pass the ohm test and still be bad. I had one that did, talked to RMStators and they said the only way to know forsure is to put it on a bench test set. I sent them mine and it was bad, they rebuilt it and all was good.

http://www.rmstator.com/en_ca/part-repair-request

 

[gopher-it!]

capacitor

As far as I can tell, my stator is good. Next question: does my sled NEED the capacitor to run? Every time I put power to the ECU, it primes the fuel pump. Then I can roll it over and it will fire for a couple beats and die. It does that same thing every time I repeat that process. I tried unplugging the capacitor, and it does the exact same thing.

Would this indicate a problem with the capacitor?

Edit: never mind, tested capacitor and it is good.

I'm running out of ideas fellas.

My capacitor tested good as well but still failed. Sled would start than quit. New capacitor and away she went.

 

[stormrider3]

If you can get it to run for a few seconds, try hitting the reverse button, maybe something suck the first time. Easy enough to try.

 

[CDK]

No luck there either. I tested the switch with the ViPec software as well, functioning properly.

I'm swapping a new stator in next, hopefully that does it.

 

[mike_s]

Have you checked to see if your magneto key is sheared?

The chassis relay will not close unless it sees enough voltage, which typically only occures above ~900 rpm. So if its not approaching that minimum, none of the DC components will come on.

Im still leaning toward a sheared key, there is a fair amount of mass there changing direction in a short time, equals alot of force. If it was weak, or the nut not torqued propery, or the taper dirty, there you go. Sheared key.

 

[CDK]

And the award goes to PDP Racing. I finally buckled down and pulled the flywheel cover off. Here's where it gets interesting, and I realized I'm an idiot.

The one thing I didn't mention in my first post, is 2 hours before this happened, I broke my recoil rope. It retracted all the way in, so I just used my e-start to get me through the day. What I didn't realize, is the rope DIDN'T retract completely; about 6 inches was sticking out, floating around inside the cover.




When I hit reverse, the flywheel must have grabbed the rope and ripped it under the crank sensor, bending the sh$t out of it. I managed to pack the sensor with superglue and clamp it back together. It was still bent slightly, so I slotted one of the holes with a Dremel tool so I could slide it down towards the flywheel. Put it all back together and she fired right up.

Learn from me folks, fix your sh$t right away, rather than just assuming a broken rope won't completely ruin your day. Thanks to everyone for all the advice, much appreciated.

 

[NapaMatt]

Bingo!!

O Yes that will do it!!

... You couldn't find this with an ohm meter!!

Good Work!

Thanks for the replay back with the answer!