Piston wash???
- Thread starter T&A1000
- Start date
D
Double A
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Heres some free info for you guys that I don't have to type.
http://www.cpcracing.com/site/256083/page509138
The link kind of worked. Go to technical info and the click on performance hand book. Scroll down till you see the pistons. Whole page is worth a read.
When is the big snow coming anyway...
http://www.cpcracing.com/site/256083/page509138
The link kind of worked. Go to technical info and the click on performance hand book. Scroll down till you see the pistons. Whole page is worth a read.
When is the big snow coming anyway...
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The wash is refering to the amount of carbon that is washed off the top of the piston. The less clean area you have the leaner, the more clean area the richer. You want to have around 1/2 inch or a thumbnail size of wash on top of the piston. This is a pic of mine from last year. Ran great all year, but the egts were a bit on the high side. Going to add fuel to gain more wash and lower temps.
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Burned a bit of oil last year. Finally figured out that I needed to adjust my oil pump when I go up in elevation. At home (900 ft) in spot on at 50:1, out west 7-10 kft it's 35:1. Yeah it's a bit lean for my taste as well, guess I just got luck and didn't burn down.
The wash is refering to the amount of carbon that is washed off the top of the piston. The less clean area you have the leaner, the more clean area the richer. You want to have around 1/2 inch or a thumbnail size of wash on top of the piston. This is a pic of mine from last year. Ran great all year, but the egts were a bit on the high side. Going to add fuel to gain more wash and lower temps.
Thanks for the great info and pic. Do I need to run different rpm ranges and check one at a time or do I just ride a few miles and then check it? What is the best way to tune? Thanks Again!!
Your going to need to check it a different rpm ranges. You could be good on the low end and lean on the top and burn down if you don't check it. Find a spot that you can make a good pull at WOT. Start at the lower rpms and work your way up. Do small pulls at first 1/4 mile and continue to go farther after checking plugs and wash. Might take a few runs to get it dialed in. Always start fat and work your way down if you can. Take a look at this, it explains it a lot better than I can.
http://www.f-bombracing.com/DigatronTech.html
http://www.f-bombracing.com/DigatronTech.html
The wash is refering to the amount of carbon that is washed off the top of the piston. The less clean area you have the leaner, the more clean area the richer. You want to have around 1/2 inch or a thumbnail size of wash on top of the piston. This is a pic of mine from last year. Ran great all year, but the egts were a bit on the high side. Going to add fuel to gain more wash and lower temps.
Looks good to me! Run all my sleds about the same as the pic.
Remove the powervalve and go through the valve slot.
or bore scope
If you have pyrometers and can watch them at WOT. If it is jetted right, it should run around 1100-1150 degrees F. at 1200 and beyond that is to lean, if it is 1100 and colder, it is rich. Just saves the headache of trying to look at the piston.
washing day
when learing to read pistons couple of things help, take a look through the power valve hole............then pull the head and take a look again. Helps a lot looking through that angled hole to know what you're looking at. Nothing like the head on the bench and looking at the naked piston, wide wash at an angle is often too little when you pull the head................till you can recognize the difference.
Know what color your piston is out of the box. Too bad for cat, but most new cat pistons have a brown varnish already painted on the piston crown, sort of a cheap suzuki piston crown cermanic, but it makes these pistons hardrt to read, cause the black carbon looks like the almost black piston crown.
Change oil brand..........they can change
Carbs ?.........then efi, they look different
Do a port job, they may change.
and on and on.
when learing to read pistons couple of things help, take a look through the power valve hole............then pull the head and take a look again. Helps a lot looking through that angled hole to know what you're looking at. Nothing like the head on the bench and looking at the naked piston, wide wash at an angle is often too little when you pull the head................till you can recognize the difference.
Know what color your piston is out of the box. Too bad for cat, but most new cat pistons have a brown varnish already painted on the piston crown, sort of a cheap suzuki piston crown cermanic, but it makes these pistons hardrt to read, cause the black carbon looks like the almost black piston crown.
Change oil brand..........they can change
Carbs ?.........then efi, they look different
Do a port job, they may change.
and on and on.
help
help me figure this one out please my sled motor last year the deler told me bad gas but the deler also sucks
help me figure this one out please my sled motor last year the deler told me bad gas but the deler also sucks
When I expand the pics they look terrible so hard to say, but to me the piston looks like it was going lean, ready to melt a hole in the middle.
What side was it?
06 m7 with cpc twins and rkt head and vorce reeds and it is carbed
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