Piston replacement

[Nyheim]

Hello,

I've got a pair of Wossners that I'm going to put in my 2013 Pro RMK 800.

First of all, is it okay to do the swap during summer time, and then let it sit for 3-4 months without even starting to break it in? Or should I replace them while winter is still here, to break the new pistons in?

Now, what do you guys do to keep coolant from pouring down into the crankcase when pulling the cylinders off? I know that if you get some down there you could just duct tape a tube on a shop vac and suck it up. The reason I'm asking is because, if I do get coolant down there, suck it up, dry it up using clean cloth, etc, can tiny tiny drips of coolant create problems if the machine is sitting for 3-4 months AFTER you did the top end rebuild?

A buddy of mine told me that the few cold starts you do after the new pistons are installed, is enough to remove the residue from the coolant if you removed most of it before putting it back together. True?

Best regards

 

[xc6rider]

Vac up all you can as far as coolant goes. If you get a little in the lower case, you'll definitely want to get it running and get it burnt out of the engine.

I have flooded the lower cases before with oil, if they sit over time. But I use a vac and suck the bottom side of the case out a couple times while its flooded with oil. Or you can pull the case drain plugs. Coolant sitting in the case is not good, it's especially not good if it has fresh air with it.

When you start them to burn out coolant or water, they really need a good easy ride to make sure it's all gone. If you can't get it out to ride on snow, you can take them out and run em grass etc. it's a crap shoot... It needs burnt out, but you also don't wanna overheat it.

One thing I learned, and have come fond of, while wrenching on jet skis, is that ski-doo makes an awesome aerosol lube spray. An anti-corrosive lube, usually used as a winterization fog, but mostly, for helping get freshly swamped engines back up running quick! The stuff is awesome! Great fogging and protection, but is actually good n flammable! Spray or soak things and you'll actually burn it out and not foul plugs! Crank an engine til you know it won't hydro lock, then just spray like crazy with this untill it fires n runs, simply amazing!!

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/brpxp-slubespray293600016.aspx

 

[Vincenthdfan]

I just pulled my top end to do a MTNTK Kit and the easiest way to avoid coolant in crankcase is to pull lower coolant hose so all the coolant drains out of the coolant passages before you yank it.

I did this and I didn't get a drop in the crank case.

 

[Nyheim]

I just pulled my top end to do a MTNTK Kit and the easiest way to avoid coolant in crankcase is to pull lower coolant hose so all the coolant drains out of the coolant passages before you yank it.

I did this and I didn't get a drop in the crank case.

Okay sounds good! CFI engine?
Did you blow down the pipe going from the expansion tank?

 

[sledtahoe]

break in

Just do a bunch of heat cycles to break in and don't worry about it summer is best time to do it. Run tell real hot let totally cool then do it again.

 

[Vincenthdfan]

Okay sounds good! CFI engine?
Did you blow down the pipe going from the expansion tank?

2011 Pro RMK 800

Yes, blew down through the system thus pressurizing it and purging it....worked like a charm.

 

[Nyheim]

2011 Pro RMK 800

Yes, blew down through the system thus pressurizing it and purging it....worked like a charm.

Wonderful! Thanks a lot for the info!

 

[Vincenthdfan]

Just wanted to add...to get the last little bit out too, pull the thermostat with that lower hose removed as well.

That will ensure there's no vacuum holding any residual back.

 

[kiliki]

you guys are making it way harder then need be. lay it coolant bottle down and pull the cap, then pull a head bolt with it on the side. catch the coolant in a clean bucket and re use.

 

[Vincenthdfan]

you guys are making it way harder then need be. lay it coolant bottle down and pull the cap, then pull a head bolt with it on the side. catch the coolant in a clean bucket and re use.

I didn't make anything harder by pulling the T Stat which had to come out anyway.

Had to pull lower hose off water pump anyway...pulled motor out of sled completely to clean up all the oil scunge from the exhaust valve vent hose.

It really is very simple and clean to just pull the hose...gets it all out, no tipping involved.

 

[RoostinRyan]

I didn't make anything harder by pulling the T Stat which had to come out anyway.

Had to pull lower hose off water pump anyway...pulled motor out of sled completely to clean up all the oil scunge from the exhaust valve vent hose.

It really is very simple and clean to just pull the hose...gets it all out, no tipping involved.

You can always take that power valve hose and run it somewhere outside the sled. That way it doesn't just dump in the belly pan. Just a thought. I've seen it before.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 

[stem]

Nyheim:
I did the swap in my -11PRMK last year and as xc6rider say's: use a hose to suck up all the coolant from the catch tank and store it for later, by doing this you'll get no or just little spillage into the cranck case.
Regarding the break in you should do as the installment papers says and start the sled up after installment with a 2% oil added to the first tank of gas and let it idle till it get's around 15-20'c and shut it down, let it cool and then fire it up again and let it get till 50'c and cool down again. Repeat this 4-5 times to get the rings hardened. The cylinders are already run in and the pistons should never have to touch the walls so therefor it should be just pull and go after installment.

Where in Norway are you based? Send me a PM and we'll have a chat for more details if you'd like