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Pipe and can? Or gear down?

G-Force

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Can only do one this year. As they are both real close to the same price, which offers there better performance for dollars spent? Gearing down from stock ratios? Or adding some more hp under the hood?
2015 Pro 155"
Most of riding is from 2500-7000' out here in BC…

Thanks for any input!
 
My advice is to put a 3" track on which will include a gear down with the smaller 7 tooth drivers. Best performance enhancement and it doesn't void the warranty like putting a pipe and can on. Also, the price is comparable because you have to buy a fuel controller if you go the pipe/can route. My 13 with the 3" track has plenty of power and it is a game changer in most snow conditions.
 
both real close to the same price, which offers there better performance for dollars spent? Gearing down from stock ratios? Or adding some more hp under the hood?
Thanks for any input!

gearing down gives you more down low but that's it

theoretically the pipe/can will give you more throughout the powerband

I'd say pipe/can combo.
 
The 3" is not for everyone I took mine off. I would do 7t drivers with the stock track. And add a head. Cheap gear down, and the power from the head. Win win....
 
Depends on how you ride. I geared down with Kurt's Kit and it was a night and day difference in performance... but I bash trees all day and only ride trails to get home.
 
Ya I do a bit of everything from trail/ditch bashing with friends and kids, to blasting around in the hills. Might be the pipe/can be the way to go? Drop a few lbs and add a few hp...
 
So looking at pipes (pipe/can combo) and wondering which is a good bang for buck? How valid are the dyne reports from DTR now? Meaning they tested a series of exhaust setups, but on a 2012. Port timing/mapping has changed since.. Would the Aaen that worked so well then, be a strong performer still on a '15? etc..
 
pipe, geardown

I would gear down. At least at high elevation I haven't seen a lot of real performance out of a pipe alone, maybe a little weight loss. Once you add the head it does seem to wake up pretty well thought. Gear down is pretty good in the trees if you like that type of riding, We don't do a lot of high speed trials.
 
gear down, with kurts kit and clutching you do not loose any track speed...and it will climb better than any stock sled by a good amount, and makes the sled so much more responsive
 
gear down, with kurts kit and clutching you do not loose any track speed...and it will climb better than any stock sled by a good amount, and makes the sled so much more responsive


x2
 
I'm glad I went with the 15 RMK as I was quoted a whopping $40 to gear it down on my first service when they change the chaincase oil.Leaves lots of cash for other mods.
 
well

If you bang trees and boondock, gear it down, if you cruise, or do the occasional open hill run, pipe, can, head, reeds, programmer.......
 
Kind of leaning towards gearing down, and a set of v-force 3R. DTR shows them making a few hp.. What's a good ratio? Bearing in mind, I rarely ride above 7000 feet out here..
 
gearing down is my vote, I dropped to 19/46 and I can still go faster down the trail than I feel safe doing so, belt temps drop and belt life extended, response increased.
its one of those mods that saves you money in the long run,
 
Close to finalizing a plan of action… will post pics/updates :face-icon-small-ton
Not that i think anyone gives a chit. More of a timeline/progress report for myself lol..
Have a buddy that's a real Foghorn Leghorn (loud mouthed shnook haha) with a '14 XM.
Want to make sure I shush him up first time out...
 
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Went with pipe and some clutching. Se how that works, if work stays busy may just do a TKI gear down kit as well. Then I'm stuck with this sled for a few years at least! lol
 
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