never used solvent washer but I have a smart washer that uses ozzy enzyme's to eat the grease and gunk off and only use it when its time for a rebuild {it leaves your hands soft for the wife} other than that just compressed air soapy hot water good rinse. if I resurface the clutches {only if I blow a belt or see rubber buildup} I use scotch bright working from outer edge to the center and acetone on a rag all ways trying to avoid all bushings and finishing again with compressed air.
PERFORMANCE TIP: CLEAN YOUR BELT AND CLUTCHES, SET DEFLECTION... EVEN ON NEW SLEDS.
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
I was told by a friend that owned a shop that brake clean was hard on the aluminum. Having no knowledge or proof I leaned to the safe side and just never used it on the clutches. That's why I mentioned it. It should have been more of a question. I use it for cleaning other parts all the time. acetone is excellent but as you said must be used with caution.
Cleaning/Washing it is more than removing oily residue.
On a used belt, that won't be effective.
The dishwasher doesn't remove the metal particles or glazing ("dead rubber") on the surface.
For that... a good cleaner like simple green, Super Clean, Purple power, "Totally awesome", or a good dish soap with a stiff scrub brush is your best bet.
DO not use the brake-cleaner, Acetone, "belt dressing" or any other solvent on the belt though (thanks Jackson for the PM asking about that) .
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On a used belt, that won't be effective.
The dishwasher doesn't remove the metal particles or glazing ("dead rubber") on the surface.
For that... a good cleaner like simple green, Super Clean, Purple power, "Totally awesome", or a good dish soap with a stiff scrub brush is your best bet.
DO not use the brake-cleaner, Acetone, "belt dressing" or any other solvent on the belt though (thanks Jackson for the PM asking about that) .
.
TTT...
Summer maint time!
Summer maint time!
I've also never heard of brake cleaner being hard on aluminum, but who knows. One thing I've found on that though, often soap and water is a better cleaner than solvents, and much less worries about what it might be doing to you. Sometimes simple dish soap is all you need, and the cleaners MH mentioned often work wonders. I do like to finish with enough brake cleaner to wet the entire working surface and then wipe down with a clean paper towel to make sure there's no residue. One last note, maybe someone already mentioned it, but I always try to work straight up and down towards the hub of the clutch when I'm sanding the clutch faces. I figure going perpendicular to the belt will give you a bit more grip. And sanding isn't really the right word, what you're actually doing is de-glazing, making sure to break up the shiny finish that tends to develop.
TTT .... it's that time of the year!
Best to read from the first post.
Also...Soaps can leave a residue... best to rinse REALLY WELL with HOT water...
I've never seen a good brake cleaner hard on aluminum parts though...but I'm definitely open to learn !
Acetone leaves no residue and is not hard on aluminum.
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Best to read from the first post.
Also...Soaps can leave a residue... best to rinse REALLY WELL with HOT water...
I've never seen a good brake cleaner hard on aluminum parts though...but I'm definitely open to learn !
Acetone leaves no residue and is not hard on aluminum.
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Anyone disassemble both clutches and running components minus weights/springs in the dishwasher?
I do the dishes at my house so the wife would never know!
id bet it would work great! {pre soak them with purple power} and the wife BETTER NOT catch you 
caustic in normal dishwashing soap will clean real well...but is super hard on the aluminum surfaces.
HMM.
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HMM.
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Side Note
I saw an article about the mixture of Brake Cleaner and Argon fumes.
Newer Brake clean does not have the chemical but just a heads up if you are welding and cleaning or two mechanics are working on separate projects .
The two would mix in your blood and cause illness and death for no apparent reason!!
I saw an article about the mixture of Brake Cleaner and Argon fumes.
Newer Brake clean does not have the chemical but just a heads up if you are welding and cleaning or two mechanics are working on separate projects .
The two would mix in your blood and cause illness and death for no apparent reason!!
Phosgene Gas is what is produced when Brake Clean and Argon are mixed with some heat
I'm not aware of the article you read; Seems they published some inaccuracies / misinformation. The two mix well before hitting the blood stream. I tried to clear up the misinformation in the following.
Brake Clean (any brand, the exception being the Non-Chlorinated version) will make Phosgene Gas (Used in great qualities as a Chemical Weapon during World War 1 to kill more than 85K people) when welding with argon in the near vicinity of where the Brake Clean has been used. Even if the Brake Clean has dried / evaporated off.
I've had the pleasure of experiencing this many times in my welding career. Very noticeable pungent smell ( I liken it to ammonia but it's not quite the smell) and immediate shortness of breath. Most recently this summer, another company was doing some work on the same boat and had cleaned the engine room with Brake Clean before I arrived. The smell was gone when I arrived so it never crossed my mind to ask, until I struck the first arc to tack the part together. I knew immediately from my previous knowledge and experience what I was dealing with. A rookie would not have been as lucky. I held my breath to finish tacking the part and then removed it to weld it out.
Just something to keep in the back of your mind. It takes very little to kill you. Much like breathing straight CO, one good full breath and your dead.
I'm not aware of the article you read; Seems they published some inaccuracies / misinformation. The two mix well before hitting the blood stream. I tried to clear up the misinformation in the following.
Brake Clean (any brand, the exception being the Non-Chlorinated version) will make Phosgene Gas (Used in great qualities as a Chemical Weapon during World War 1 to kill more than 85K people) when welding with argon in the near vicinity of where the Brake Clean has been used. Even if the Brake Clean has dried / evaporated off.
I've had the pleasure of experiencing this many times in my welding career. Very noticeable pungent smell ( I liken it to ammonia but it's not quite the smell) and immediate shortness of breath. Most recently this summer, another company was doing some work on the same boat and had cleaned the engine room with Brake Clean before I arrived. The smell was gone when I arrived so it never crossed my mind to ask, until I struck the first arc to tack the part together. I knew immediately from my previous knowledge and experience what I was dealing with. A rookie would not have been as lucky. I held my breath to finish tacking the part and then removed it to weld it out.
Just something to keep in the back of your mind. It takes very little to kill you. Much like breathing straight CO, one good full breath and your dead.
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Scotch Brite pad and purple power with hot water, as hot as your hands can stand for belts.
I've always used a brown scotch pad and starting fluid.?
Actually Simple Green shouldn't be used, at least the classic one. Simple Green accelerates corrosion if given time on aluminum, so make sure you use the "Aircraft" or "Motorsports" version of Simple Green. They are basically the same price. Google it and you'll see lots of info about it, but this below highlights the issue.
An educational website containing extensive information on the Boeing CH-47 Chinook helicopter.
Boeing Chinook helicopter maintenance issues - aircraft cleaners.
www.chinook-helicopter.com
#1 Wife asked what is a symptom of dirty, glazed sheaves and belts? Your answer was right, it will be lower RPM's. A lot of folks seem to think belt slip will increase operating RPM's but the exact opposite is the result. When your belt is glazed or your sheave surfaces are glazed, your secondary will not sense the torque it is designed to feel resulting in less backshift and ultimately lower operating RPM's. I feel glazing is much of a problem with the hard compound belts we are seeing manufactured and recommended today. I've had several instances in the last couple seasons where a quick deglazing up on the mountain will bring 300 RPM's back.
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