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One stop performance belt life products?

Tisk tisk

Bendy, it doesn't come with the cam. I wasn't aware Gene was brining any in, as I ordered mine direct from OSP - should have it by the weekend. Jim @ OSP suggested I order two eccentrics, as the mag mount can also be corrected if need be.

What is there made for 1100's, that works, that I don't stock? Could have sent with your belts today. I've sold 9 tools thus far and have 2 on the shelf. Time for another order off them. I stock the engine stopper, enclosed jackshaft brace, tool, float plugs, and concentric mounts. Had to use a concentric mount this week to get some negative twist back.
 
question for you guys using the osp setup. So your ctc is supposed to be 11 1/2" but if your at 11 5/8" and your pushing the engine "snubber" till the bolt comes out easily. you would technically be increasing that distance. so am I missing something in this process or it is what it is?

If your c to c is long you can use Evo motor mounts or the OSP concentric pieces. If you have major parallelism problems the Evo mounts address alignment and reliability from replacing the soft stock mount.
 
Grande Prairie, Ab area

I have my tool and concentrics on the way from WKM. I ordered (2) concentric kits. Each kit includes one major and one minor concentric. If anyone in my area dosen't have or doesn't want to spend the cash to buy their own, I will be willing to rent the tool out. I already have one guy who will be renting it. Ben. PS you'll have to purchase your own concentrics though!
 
Hoping

I don't have to do the engine mounts, at least not this season. I just want to ride. Awesome sled, I just have to get this belt issued resolved.
 
I don't have to do the engine mounts, at least not this season. I just want to ride. Awesome sled, I just have to get this belt issued resolved.

The big and small concentrics are new in the last shipment. The first ones were only small. I haven'd had time to chat with Jim at OSP but after doing one I believe the larger diameter sleeve concentric is to go on top of the smaller one so the bolt has something to tighten the mount up. You'll understand when you see how it works.

As for motor mounts you can usually see the ones on the mag side and when failing there is space on the top and bent fins on the bottom.

Today we documented our first '13 1100 we just sold that is off vertically by 60-70 thou with the OSP tool for Cat warranty. Customer got 100km on 2 belts. That is crazy but now we have a tool that makes it easy and unrefutable. We offered a parts solution and time. We'll see what they say. At this point they are on the hook for $450 in belts.
 
I'm exhausted

So its motor mounts and brackets today! I'm going to know this sled inside out after this little adventure. I just have a hard time doing all this stuff on a sled that only has 800 miles on it! It definitely needs to be done though. Sure wish I could be compensated for my parts bills at least. Its a big job... but really not difficult. Just time consuming. Props to OSP and EVO for stepping up to the plate. Gene and his staff at WKM have been stellar. Can't say enough about their service.
 
Been there done that!

Is anyone else concerned with the poly motor mounts causing problems with the heat exchanger (vibration)??????

I was concerned, but did it anyway. I installed OSP jackshaft support, engine snubber, and poly motor mount. The Heat exchanger didn't crack for almost 100 miles. Luckily we were able to make enough water and bottle it to drive it back 30 miles to the barn. The first 75 miles were fairly smooth trails and off trail deep snow. Then we got on a really rough patch of bad moguls for a mile or so. That's when we noticed the green snow.
Having lived through this now I would do it differently. I believe that the jackshaft support and snubber do a great job of holding everything in place. I don't believe the poly motor mount is necessary. It only transfers harsh vibrations to a frail, poorly designed heat exchanger/motor mount. Have 60 miles on new cooler and old original rubber mount. 40 or so more and I'll know if my theory has any merit.
 
Yes

Is anyone else concerned with the poly motor mounts causing problems with the heat exchanger (vibration)??????

Thats why the EVO mounts and brackets are going in. You trim off the old cooler tabs and install the metal brackets!
 
The motor mount is NECESSARY in my case!

I was concerned, but did it anyway. I installed OSP jackshaft support, engine snubber, and poly motor mount. The Heat exchanger didn't crack for almost 100 miles. Luckily we were able to make enough water and bottle it to drive it back 30 miles to the barn. The first 75 miles were fairly smooth trails and off trail deep snow. Then we got on a really rough patch of bad moguls for a mile or so. That's when we noticed the green snow.
Having lived through this now I would do it differently. I believe that the jackshaft support and snubber do a great job of holding everything in place. I don't believe the poly motor mount is necessary. It only transfers harsh vibrations to a frail, poorly designed heat exchanger/motor mount. Have 60 miles on new cooler and old original rubber mount. 40 or so more and I'll know if my theory has any merit.

I need the eccentric/concentric engine mount to get my parallelism corrected. Its that BAD. Disgusting if you ask me. Nine... I repeat... nine miles on a belt. 773 miles and the engine mount has collapsed. WTF!!!
 
Our motor mounts are a 60 durometer rubber like stock cat but not gear shaped to hold that engine in place. Just sayin.

To me that sounds like a much better alternative than the solid poly mounts. I knew better, but sometimes I just need to prove it to myself. :face-icon-small-hap
Wished I would have known about your mounts before...
 
I need the eccentric/concentric engine mount to get my parallelism corrected. Its that BAD. Disgusting if you ask me. Nine... I repeat... nine miles on a belt. 773 miles and the engine mount has collapsed. WTF!!!

Its sad that your sled is that bad. If mine was out of alignment that bad I probably would have gone for the Evo delete kit and not even bothered with the other stuff. Fortunately for me, mine is not a belt blower, I was just trying to add some insurance to keep it that way. I have replaced more coolers (1) than belts in the last 300 miles.
Is that a good thing?
 
I have already purchased mine

Our motor mounts are a 60 durometer rubber like stock cat but not gear shaped to hold that engine in place. Just sayin.

I buy from WKM. This is what Gene recomended. I trust his judgement. The welds look crappy anyways. Good to know there is an alternative to trimming and installing new brackets.
 
If you change motor mounts to anything stiffer than stock you should just change to the HD engine brackets as well. Matter of time to crack the cooler with a more rigid mount.

Good news Bendy, the motor mount Turbie is taking about is the Evo one lol. You're good.
 
Perfect!

If you change motor mounts to anything stiffer than stock you should just change to the HD engine brackets as well. Matter of time to crack the cooler with a more rigid mount.

Good news Bendy, the motor mount Turbie is taking about is the Evo one lol. You're good.

I'll be cutting out the old cooler mounts and installing the new ones starting Friday night. I'll finish it up this weekend. Joe, I'll give you a call Thursday evening (tonight). The adjustable engine mounts are whats going to get that engine where I need it. My depression has turned to excitement! I can't wait to get this Beast fixed properly.
 
mixed review

Well last night I installed the osp engine snubber and the jackshaft support and eccentric and purchasing there alignment tool. very easy to do although I wasn't able to get my ctc in and Im .020 gap on the vertical parallelism. anyone else know of getting some more movement out of this thing besides the evo mounts(planned for this summer). Im wondering if the eccentric on the other side and/or ive seen somewhere theres some that's hitting a mount or something. anyways any help would be great
 
If you can't get ctc with the eccentric it's tough to get it any other way if you still have the TCL. I guess you could build an even bigger one. The Evo motor mounts wont really help that if you are keeping the TCL either. The tcl bracket itself is what is making it too long on the ctc.

We do have longer belt solutions available thou so the ctc is not critical IMO, even with TCL delete brackets. Getting the horizontal and vertical parallel is the main objective and the tool will help you do that. On our own shop tool I made the half circle a touch longer so it still drops on the shaft on ones with longer ctc. You can hand measure to double check your spacing as the 3 offset pegs are made to be perfect to the clutch with a 11.5 ctc. From the ones we have done when you get parallel perfect the ctc is usually correct when doing TCL deletes.
 
OSP product support

A very big thank you to Jim to help me out after hours for getting my sled lined out. great customer support!!!!
 
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