??? on Bar Risers and more on stand up vs. sitting down

[TURBOXP09]

I just picked up my Mountain Horse Kit last week and I am new to the bike scene. I have never riden a dirt bike, its always been sleds so my riding buddy and I both sold the sleds bought YZ450F's and Timbersled kits for a new challenge and bumps and bruises.

I read the thread on "Stand up vs. Sit down" in this section but it went off on a tangent about seats so I am still unclear on "stand up vs. sit down" so if someone whats to chime in about that it would be great. I am asking this because I never sat down on my sled because I could maneuver easier and in a nut shell it just felt more nautural for me, but if sitting down is easier on a bike I guess I will have to adapt but I want to get a set of risers for my bike. I was wondering if any of you have them and if they would help with riding ability and what kind you all have or suggest? I was looking at the Rox Risers in a 2" but wanted some input before getting a set. I am about 5' 8" give or take but about 2" of rise would be plenty for me.....I think!

Thanks guys

 

[Ausm7499]

I personally feel like I have a lot more control sitting down while snobiking, there are those times when I am standing but I would say 90% of the day I sit. As a sledder I stood 100% of the time which is why I rode without a seat and I also stand probably 75% of the time while riding my bike on dirt. As for a riser I don't see why you would need one especially with your height, I am 6-1 and don't see a need for a riser.

 

[Mtn. Muncher]

As far as standing vs. sitting this is what works for me. When you climb up hill (side hilling or straight up) you sit and you use your legs as counterbalances to help maneuver your bike. It is really hard to climb hills when standing. However you can do short stand up maneuvers when jumping up something or jetting out of a creek bed.
<O</O
Any time you ride on flat ground such as flying through the trees or riding the trail or track standing works well. Also going downhill standing works good but sitting still works better unless you are going super fast down the hill then stand.
<O</O
I get to ride with all types of people when doing demo rides so I get to hear a lot of opinions. All my bikes have +2” Pro Moto Billet bar risers on them. Most guys look at that and think it is too high at first. Then after they ride they say it is a must have. The reason the 2” works so well on the snow bike is that it does make it much more comfortable to stand but it also greatly helps to hold yourself back on the bike when going downhill standing or sitting. On snow bikes you will do a lot more downhill and steeper downhill assents then you would on the dirt.
<O</O
I have also used the Rox Riser and they too work well. 2” is as high as you can go due to the cable and wiring lengths. My most recommended accessories for snow bikes are Bar Risers, wider foot pegs, handguards, 3.3gas can, cargo bag. <O</O

 

[TURBOXP09]

Thanks for the replies! I think for me its just the unknown not knowing what to expect since I am jumping in head first without doing a demo ride and never riding a bike. I have heard snowbiking is nothing like riding on the dirt or riding a sled, so we will see. I appreciate the input from you guys!

 

[M5-]

On my WR on the dirt I had a riser and thought it was the way to go. Right about the time I picked up my KTM I also read an article in Dirtbike magazine slagging bar risers. I thought since I didn't have one on the KTM yet I'd give it a try with no riser. To be honest it took some getting used to, I always felt hunched over but what it did for me was force me to bend my knees and use my legs more. I've adapted my dirt riding style predominently stand up to the point where I try to barely use my hands at all and as such I can't see me going back to a riser. Burandt and all those dudes have really low bars on their sleds. I don't know what to expect on the snowbike either but I'm going to start with no riser and see how it goes for me. I'm about 5' 10" so at 5' 8" I can't see needing it but hey sure wouldn't be the first time I was wrong. LOL

M5

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Just get the kit mounted, and ride it.. You can add risers any night of the week. I don't run risers, I'm about 5'8". You'll have so many other things to worry about, cramping up and being uncomfortable is not going to be high on your list once you actually get out. Once you get out, getting the next ride scheduled will be the only thing on your mind.

ps. On your front mounted airbox, you'll want to watch for ice melting straight into your intake. I'd recommend scrapping the airbox all together and getting a pod installed on a silicone hose between the rads behind the handlebars. Your ECU will need to be tinkered with as well to be optimized.

 

[TURBOXP09]

Just get the kit mounted, and ride it.. You can add risers any night of the week. I don't run risers, I'm about 5'8". You'll have so many other things to worry about, cramping up and being uncomfortable is not going to be high on your list once you actually get out. Once you get out, getting the next ride scheduled will be the only thing on your mind.

ps. On your front mounted airbox, you'll want to watch for ice melting straight into your intake. I'd recommend scrapping the airbox all together and getting a pod installed on a silicone hose between the rads behind the handlebars. Your ECU will need to be tinkered with as well to be optimized.

Jon,

Thanks! I couldn't agree with you more. There will be a lot of other things to worry about besides the risers for sure!!

I have heard that you have to do some air intake mods and there is a guy that I know that know the trick for the Yamaha Air intake. Will I need to buy the Programmer to tweek the ECU or is that something the dealer can do for me?

Thanks

 

[Jon Mutiger]

Your bike will run, but it can be tweaked with the ECU adjustment tool to be better. It'll start better for sure. There is a bit of a trick to starting the YZ's.. If your not accustomed to it, you will want to get this drilled into your head. Each time you need to start it, you'll want to:

1. Get it into neutral
2. Kick it like 5-6 times just kicking it through it's stroke really with no intent to start it.
3. Crack the throttle a bit, then kick it like you mean it.


You will want good boots to learn how to kick it, as it will destroy snowboots. Get some MX boots until it's really cold out.

If someone here has the mapping numbers that work well, post them up for this guy. There are 9 parameters to adjust if I'm not mistaken using the factory ECU tuning tool.

Riding a snowbike for me is more about self control than anything, riding skill actually isn't terribly imporant as it's pretty easy. But you'll want to learn how to fall, how to dig it out, how to start the bike. How to keep your group together ect. Figuring out your riding buddies and what they might do in front of you is pretty important.

Since you've been a sledder you'll realize what early season hazards exist. I've found early season riding to be alot of fun, but you do end up going over the bars more often early season than you will later on. Fluffy pow is fun, but getting stuck too often will make your day very tiring.

And learning instantly to avoid riding the sled tracks is going to be important to having fun. Riding tracked out stuff is not much fun on these things. They can be on a groomed trail and go straight up the 3foot soft stuff on the side like it was meant to be ridden. Obviously doing that will make gobs of snow drop down onto the sled track, so be aware of what your doing to the trail behind you and below you for all the sledders out there so we can co-exist into the future.

Jon

 

[TURBOXP09]

Jon,

Thank you so much, you are a wealth of information! Thanks for the start up info., I have had some issues starting it after it gets warmed up. If someone would be kind enough to post those ECU parameters that would be awesome! Thanks again for all you guys information, its nice to know that people on here are willing to help out.

Thanks again