Oil delete

[AKkatz]

When I did the delete on a Firecat back in the day, I attached a braided line to the block-off plate and the other end I drilled into a convenient location and installed he zerk there for easy access...
BD-X doesn't have a price listed can you tell me what they are retailing for?

 

[HOOCH256]

If you just get the delete it's $30 but if you want there billet cover it's like $300 and he said they would have cast mag covers soon for like $169! I'm just gonna rock the stock one for now then I'll get the billet one cause it's got a sweet dip stick! Right now I've other things on my list to get before the year starts, like a BDX hood, air frames, and a tied! Then I'll splurge on the case cover


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[backcountryislife]

I installed the zerk in the bottom where the oil line used to be, not in the block off plate. I've never had smoke happen from grease.

You must be taking about the M... on the PC, putting the zerk in the bottom is pretty much impossible without pulling the motor, hence the line we attached, and put a zerk on that.

No reason to drill into the BDX plate... just leave it the way it's supposed to be. If you're going to introduce lube, have it go into the place it's always gone, through the bottom. There's a line there, just use that banjo fitting.

 

[HOOCH256]

Clear as mud! Will being doing your step by step procedure since my sled already looks like this....

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[m8magicandmystery]

that an oil lite impregnated bushing up top at the block off plate..they should go years and years with no lube or issues...the grease tube to the banjo at the gears is fine to do for piece of mind..although your likely fine without it..

 

[geo]

Where`s the grease go that you pump in? The resevoir to oil bath the gears is a finite space. Sooner or later it will be full then your 6000 psi grease gun will push in out the vent (possibly blocking it) or past the seals not designed to do it that way.
If I saw premix there I would be thinking of a crank rebuild or reseal anyway. What would you do if you saw spooge coming out the mag or PTO seal.

Never did the Suzuki but did lots of others previously. I like a cute little VENTED bottle (or big fat tube) set-up (drain at the bottom of the case) that would allow me to flush and fill once or twice a season to get rid of wear particles. Water pump does a lot of work and gears create cavitation that needs venting. Seals are good to what,,, 1 or 2 x atm.
Aways scratched my head on the grease nipple idea. Thought maybe the plate supplied had a large vent installed (that should eventually get pretty messy).

Of course, as stated above, no issues and no greasy smelling smoke. Scratching my head again because I remember what gear oil smells like.

 

[HOOCH256]

Where`s the grease go that you pump in? The resevoir to oil bath the gears is a finite space. Sooner or later it will be full then your 6000 psi grease gun will push in out the vent (possibly blocking it) or past the seals not designed to do it that way.
If I saw premix there I would be thinking of a crank rebuild or reseal anyway. What would you do if you saw spooge coming out the mag or PTO seal.

Never did the Suzuki but did lots of others previously. I like a cute little VENTED bottle (or big fat tube) set-up (drain at the bottom of the case) that would allow me to flush and fill once or twice a season to get rid of wear particles. Water pump does a lot of work and gears create cavitation that needs venting. Seals are good to what,,, 1 or 2 x atm.
Aways scratched my head on the grease nipple idea. Thought maybe the plate supplied had a large vent installed (that should eventually get pretty messy).

Of course, as stated above, no issues and no greasy smelling smoke. Scratching my head again because I remember what gear oil smells like.

I was kinda wondering about that as well seeing as how its not really meant to burn. So what about like another mentioned on here and using a syringe to push a lil 2s oilinto the tubes rather then grease? Im just thinking out loud here!!!

 

[m8magicandmystery]

I was kinda wondering about that as well seeing as how its not really meant to burn. So what about like another mentioned on here and using a syringe to push a lil 2s oilinto the tubes rather then grease? Im just thinking out loud here!!!

on mine i run the hose up from the bottom banjo and it goes to a barbed mip fitting with a cap that i have zip tied to the fuel rail...

every four or so rides i fill the hose with oil from an old fashion oil squirter...and when the sled fires up after that it smokes like crazy which leds me to believe that if the supplied oil is getting out then enough oil mist is going to get in..

Which leads me to believe Don;t do anything if you don;t want to and it will be fine..!!..but hey piece of mind right..??

im sure that Bdx is just now suggesting abit of install grease is only for start up since any residual lube may be diminished during the install..

Im certain that if these kits are installed in the Bdx Pro's in all fifty sleds as the average consumer is expected to install them that obviously Bdx has complete trust in them..

as far as grease..Lubriplate white engine rebuild grease has been used for decades and im certain it has never plugged anything and when the temps are up its liquidity is as fluid as anything..get some and heat it up to see..??

 

[HOOCH256]

I would def have to agree with you on that! That white grease is great stuff, an old engine builder once told me that that stuff is one of the slickest grease coatings you can get!


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[sidehill]

You must be taking about the M... on the PC, putting the zerk in the bottom is pretty much impossible without pulling the motor, hence the line we attached, and put a zerk on that.

Just did my 2013 today. might be a different motor plate. I just took an educated guess on where the bolt was on the bottom of the motor and drilled a small hole in the aluminum plate that is riveted on the bottom of the sled. Looked with a flashlight and could see the bolt in the bottom of the motor. Enlarged the hole to get a grease gun end through. Pulled out the bolt and installed zerk through the hole took a rubber plug and plugged the hole. To add grease down the road, just tip sled on its side pull plug add grease reinstall plug tip sled back upright and ride. This way I never had to drill out all the rivets on the bottom plate.

Still might have to drill the rivets in the bottom plate to get at my coolant lines though, bummer!!!! New sled and its in a 1000 pieces, parts scattered everywhere. Has not even been started yet.

 

[backcountryislife]

Just did my 2013 today. might be a different motor plate. I just took an educated guess on where the bolt was on the bottom of the motor and drilled a small hole in the aluminum plate that is riveted on the bottom of the sled. Looked with a flashlight and could see the bolt in the bottom of the motor. Enlarged the hole to get a grease gun end through. Pulled out the bolt and installed zerk through the hole took a rubber plug and plugged the hole. To add grease down the road, just tip sled on its side pull plug add grease reinstall plug tip sled back upright and ride. This way I never had to drill out all the rivets on the bottom plate.

Still might have to drill the rivets in the bottom plate to get at my coolant lines though, bummer!!!! New sled and its in a 1000 pieces, parts scattered everywhere. Has not even been started yet.

Cool... It's hard to tell from the pic, but I couldn't get a zerk on there on the 12... not enough space without cutting the crossmember slightly.

Not a big fan of the plug idea... I feel like it would get pulled off from riding. I'm curious how that works out for you, that was what Cutler was suggesting as well though.

 

[backcountryislife]

Where`s the grease go that you pump in? The resevoir to oil bath the gears is a finite space. Sooner or later it will be full then your 6000 psi grease gun will push in out the vent (possibly blocking it) or past the seals not designed to do it that way.
If I saw premix there I would be thinking of a crank rebuild or reseal anyway. What would you do if you saw spooge coming out the mag or PTO seal.

Never did the Suzuki but did lots of others previously. I like a cute little VENTED bottle (or big fat tube) set-up (drain at the bottom of the case) that would allow me to flush and fill once or twice a season to get rid of wear particles. Water pump does a lot of work and gears create cavitation that needs venting. Seals are good to what,,, 1 or 2 x atm.
Aways scratched my head on the grease nipple idea. Thought maybe the plate supplied had a large vent installed (that should eventually get pretty messy).

Of course, as stated above, no issues and no greasy smelling smoke. Scratching my head again because I remember what gear oil smells like.

Keep in mind, the pump does shove oil in there in stock configuration, so there has to be somewhere for it to go by design. You shove grease in there, it'll pass the bearings just like the oil does. (thicker obviously, so not quite as readily as 2 stroke oil.)

 

[CatRpillar]

Just bought the bdx oil delete kit. It says nothing in the instructions about oil or grease injection fittings, just to squirt an oz of oil in before you bolt up the plate. Do you figure this is an older set of instructions?

 

[backcountryislife]

Just bought the bdx oil delete kit. It says nothing in the instructions about oil or grease injection fittings, just to squirt an oz of oil in before you bolt up the plate. Do you figure this is an older set of instructions?

No, that's the "standard" BDX instructions, myself & others decided on grease a few years back, and during that time sidehill came up with the Zerk, and it seems like most of us just adpoted that as OUR standard instructions.

Talking to Cutler, not sure who came first, Dale or Mark, but he does it the same way too. If Dale, the most friggin conservative guy in the business says it's good to go... it's good enough for me (and has been on every sled I've heard of running it.)Initial lubrication is what it's all about IMO, so I'm sure the BDX way works fine (they didn't used to say to add oil), we just take it a step further.

 

[backcountryislife]

You won't have to say I told you so. I agree 100% with ACMtncat, if you don't cross drill then put the zerk in. It goes in the center of the BDX piece that replaces the oil pump. Get a 45 degree that angles up and then it is easy to get to. Just a couple squirts every 5 or 6 rides and it is just fine.

Eric...why in the world would you drill that part, when you can put a zerk right in the bottom without any BS...

What would you have to say told you so about, tell us about ONE sled that was installed with grease (zero in bottom or bolt, either way) that has failed?

 

[CatRpillar]

Anybody put the bottom plate back on using self tapping screws rather than the rivets? Was also wondering if the 13's are using self tappers instead of rivets there? Reason I ask is that when I was at the dealer I asked for the rivets for the bottom plate just to make sure I had the right ones. He looks at the fiche and it says self tappers. Even looked myself. Get back home and they are rivets......maybe only 12's ran rivets?

Real fun job getting at that pump with my gorilla sized hands. Lol

 

[HOOCH256]

Anybody put the bottom plate back on using self tapping screws rather than the rivets? Was also wondering if the 13's are using self tappers instead of rivets there? Reason I ask is that when I was at the dealer I asked for the rivets for the bottom plate just to make sure I had the right ones. He looks at the fiche and it says self tappers. Even looked myself. Get back home and they are rivets......maybe only 12's ran rivets?

Real fun job getting at that pump with my gorilla sized hands. Lol

I went to the dealership and i told them the same thing and they gave me 18 rivets for $1.00 a piece FML!

And yes getting the pump out with big hands was a biotch, but i found that putting a hose on the hose barb under the case was even worse, took me about an hour just to put that lil hose on!

 

[CatRpillar]

I went to the dealership and i told them the same thing and they gave me 18 rivets for $1.00 a piece FML!

And yes getting the pump out with big hands was a biotch, but i found that putting a hose on the hose barb under the case was even worse, took me about an hour just to put that lil hose on!

I just pulled the bolt and banjo. Ratcheting wrench came in handy as I couldnt get a socket nor a regular wrench on it. Just going to attach some fuel line and fill r up with 2 stroke juice.

 

[HOOCH256]

I just pulled the bolt and banjo. Ratcheting wrench came in handy as I couldnt get a socket nor a regular wrench on it. Just going to attach some fuel line and fill r up with 2 stroke juice.

Sadly i didn't have a ratcheting wrench, all i had was a midget wrench and it was not fun! Hopefully the hose i used stays on the banjo, it was slightly bigger but i was able to get the clamp on there. Also going to do the same and inject some 2s in the hose every few rides! Do you think it would be better to inject while at an idle or not running? or does it not make a difference????

 

[backcountryislife]

Hopefully the hose i used stays on the banjo, it was slightly bigger but i was able to get the clamp on there.

I would be very careful to check that often if you have ANY question about it.

If that hose were to fall off, you'd lose your motor VERY quick imo, as any lube in that center section would drain right out. It would scare the he!! out of me if I thought there was any chance of that happening on my sled.

I'm glad the 13 is easier to get to, it's so much easier to just toss the zerk right in that hole.