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oil delete

it doesn't hurt the injectors at all, but with a control box, keep in mind you'll want to add a touch of fuel, as you're replacing approximately 3% of the fuel with the oil. if I recall a point on the BD box is ~2%.
 
I ran two years with the oil delete on my 09 TM8. No Issues. Pretty sure you need to do some oil port mod or something to make it work properly. Not sure how it works but you need to get oil to the bearings as well.
 
You will need to drill a hole directly under the PTO crank bearing and run a line from the center bearing, that already has a port from the oil pump, just drill a 6 mil hole and tap it with a 6mil x 1 in tap and use the bolt and fitting from the pump, you will half to lengthen the hose though
 
You DO NOT need to drill anything.

Do a search, there are many ways but most of us run a zerk where the banjo fitting goes now & it works great. Some debate as to how often to grease, I do it at install & MAYBE once a year after that, some add after every few rides, some once a month... whatever, but no drilling is needed, at all. VERY simple mod, the hardest part is getting the dam oil bottle out!!!
 
Drilling an tapping the case like discribed will work just fine too. There is more than one way to skin this cat.
 
Personally I like the idea of drill and tapping the case. simple to do and maintence free. Took me 1/2 hour to drill, tap, flush case, install fitting and plug on oil pump. Just my 02 cents...
 
Personally I like the idea of drill and tapping the case. simple to do and maintence free. Took me 1/2 hour to drill, tap, flush case, install fitting and plug on oil pump. Just my 02 cents...

The zerk is maintenence free as well. Grease when it's new, and forget it. Many of us have big miles, boosted or not, without ever touching it again.

Keep in mind, the delete is supposed to be used without anything else, no grease, no drilling... and most of them worked just fine. There were a COUPLE failures, and then we all came up with ways to mitigate that minimal risk.

The instructions now tell you to add some injection oil to the cavity... honestly I'm rather sure that would be more than enough as well. IMO, making sure the cavity isn't run dry after doing the delete, and letting any oil drain out the banjo fitting hole is the main goal here.

If the seals transfer, then you'll get premix, if they don't, then the grease or injection oil you put in there at install will stay in there. They DO transfer though, but slowly, so once that cavity is dripped out, you're not helping the sled by starting it after that.

EVEN if you drill, I would not run the sled without putting some kind of lube in the cavity, because like was posted above, even then there's not a QUICK transfer.

Nothing wrong with drilling at all, I'm just saying that you don't NEED to, I have no desire to drill holes in my new motor (and can't get to it on the 12 anymore) and the zerk works VERY well.
 
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what ratio have most been mixing?
lets say using the apv oil.
when you say grease the cavity, what type of grease, same grease as used on suspension?
 
what ratio have most been mixing?
lets say using the apv oil.
when you say grease the cavity, what type of grease, same grease as used on suspension?

32:1 (the mod guy I used to ride for ran 24:1, I know others who run 40:1)

I use whatever the heck is slippery & currently in the bigger gun, which is usually lucas red, just cause I can get it at home cheapot & it seems to dissolve smoothly in fuel

When I tore down a sled with a delete that hadn't been re- greased in around 500 miles, there was a mix in the cavity. There was definitely still grease in there, but it was thinned out a bit by the premix. The fact that it was still obvious that there had been grease in there made me think that the premix wasn't exactly flowing like a river through there.

One thing to think about, on Doo motors there bearings that premix doesn't see, and they're assembled with grease, that motor will never get anything else, and all yapping about doos aside, THAT part isn't a failure point. So taking from that, "packing" the cavity with grease, is no worse than that, except we put WAY more grease in that area for what we're lubing & it spins at nowhere near the rate those bearings do.
 
Just did another delete yesterday... 2012 m800

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I thought I would throw out a twist on the delete scheme.

I deleted the injection oil tank and still used the injection pump for oiling the turbo and the water pump cavity of the motor. I don't have to run an electric lube pump for the turbo and the little bit of oil that is consumed by bottom of the motor allows you to keep adding fresh (about 3 oz per weekend) oil to the turbo oil tank.

Having run many different types of oil delete schemes over many years, most work well, but a tell tale sign of abnormal wear in the water pump shaft bushings is a constantly over heating motor for no apparent reason.
 
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So for the oil delete on the M series, when you put a zerk in place of the bolt supplied with the BDX kit that goes in the bottom of the case where the oil supply line to the water pump shaft was, do you still use one of the original crush washers with the zerk as the instructions say to do with the bolt supplied?
 
So for the oil delete on the M series, when you put a zerk in place of the bolt supplied with the BDX kit that goes in the bottom of the case where the oil supply line to the water pump shaft was, do you still use one of the original crush washers with the zerk as the instructions say to do with the bolt supplied?

you know... it's been a few months, but I would assume if there was a washer there I probably re-used it, but honestly I don't remember ever putting a washer on the zerk prior to install.
 
I second using the oil pump to run oil to the turbo. I have 2000 miles on my OVS kit with it setup that way. One less thing to worry about going out, and its already on the engine.
 
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