Personally I like the idea of drill and tapping the case. simple to do and maintence free. Took me 1/2 hour to drill, tap, flush case, install fitting and plug on oil pump. Just my 02 cents...
The zerk is maintenence free as well. Grease when it's new, and forget it. Many of us have big miles, boosted or not, without ever touching it again.
Keep in mind, the delete is supposed to be used without anything else, no grease, no drilling... and most of them worked just fine. There were a COUPLE failures, and then we all came up with ways to mitigate that minimal risk.
The instructions now tell you to add some injection oil to the cavity... honestly I'm rather sure that would be more than enough as well. IMO, making sure the cavity isn't run dry after doing the delete, and letting any oil drain out the banjo fitting hole is the main goal here.
If the seals transfer, then you'll get premix, if they don't, then the grease or injection oil you put in there at install will stay in there. They DO transfer though, but slowly, so once that cavity is dripped out, you're not helping the sled by starting it after that.
EVEN if you drill, I would not run the sled without putting some kind of lube in the cavity, because like was posted above, even then there's not a QUICK transfer.
Nothing wrong with drilling at all, I'm just saying that you don't NEED to, I have no desire to drill holes in my new motor (and can't get to it on the 12 anymore) and the zerk works VERY well.