No Spark

[dmkhnr]

Sled ran on 1 cyl for awhile, I reved it up to see if I could clear it out and it ran down and died. No spark.

I got a new stator, hooked it all up and still no spark.

I've been all over the wiring, what should I look for next?

 

[guidoxpress]

hmm..

try unplugging the key switch, tether cord, throttle safety switch on handle bars

you can also unplug the hand warmers incase they are grounding through the bars..

also check the spark with NEW plugs, gapped at .025 i believe it was..

check the coils and make sure they are plugged in, check the spark plug wires

i would unplug EVERYTHING on the bars and check for spark...and if you GET spark, slowly plug everything back in one by one as you check spark and see if you can find out whats grounding the circuit...

was your old stator testing bad?

 

[dmkhnr]

I've already done all the above.

My old stator tests the exact same as the new stator. The 3 yellow wires test 0 on 2000, and .5 on 200. I get a reading that coincides with the manual on the other 2 plugs off the stator, but the yellow wires aren't reading what the manual says.

The only thing I can think of now is: When I originally pulled the flywheel, I put a gear puller on the outside metal ring which pulled it across the groove. I was able to repair by forming the ring back into place. Will a slight misalignment cause no spark?

 

[dmkhnr]

I should clarify, that I didn't buy a new stator, I bought a used one off ebay that was guaranteed to work. I am getting the exact same .5 reading on the yellow wires at 200 ohms, and 0 at 2000 ohms that I get with my existing stator. Does this sound correct??

I found the reason why it was running on 1, I missed the plug on the back of the motor that jumps the injector. DUH.

I'm losing patients here with the stator, please verify that my findings are within tolerance.

 

[BIGGDAWG]

here are pics of the manual for testing the stator

 

[dmkhnr]

Do you test the coils on 200 ohm or 2000 ohm. I'm guessing that .5 at 200 ohm means the stator is bad.

 

[BIGGDAWG]

Do you test the coils on 200 ohm or 2000 ohm. I'm guessing that .5 at 200 ohm means the stator is bad.

when checking resistance always use the smallest scale possible for the best and most accurate results.

if they are at .5 that is out of specs do all the other parts of the stator check ok?

i will check mine tonight to see what it is. i don't think the .5 reading is too bad. touch the leads of the ohm meter together to see what it reads. jot that number down and check the stator again. now subtract the reading you got from just touching the leads together and that is what your readings actually are. on my meters sometimes my leads measure .1-.3 ohms and you have to subtract that from your reading to get the actual resistance especially when you are dealing with tenths of ohms.

 

[dmkhnr]

If you could check for me. My meter reads .4 when touched together.

I ordered a new flywheel, as I damaged the existing when originally pulling it. I reved the motor up and it died, so I'm thinking that maybe the outer ring spun just a hair and it is out of phase now.

 

[BIGGDAWG]

mine measures .5 with leads measuring .3 and that is on both mine and my brothers 900's

 

[dmkhnr]

mine measures .5 with leads measuring .3 and that is on both mine and my brothers 900's

Is your stator loose? I need the resistance on the sensors. I was thinking that they should read 190 like the green/white and red/white.

1 of my stators reads nothing at the sensors, the other reads 30 and 9. I need a reading on a known good stator.

 

[dmkhnr]

I'm moving on to ecu. Stator tests good, new flywheel, pulled motor again to check for scaved wires, I'm at a loss and the ecu is the next step.
I hate throwing parts at a problem.

 

[sw]

Don't throw money & parts at the problem. All things being equal, typically when the 900's lose spark it's the CPS (crank position sensor) circuit of the stator. Check by what Bigdawg has posted, don't forget the gap at the pick-ups. The electrical sys. can be quite frustrating as everyone here knows, as it could be a host of other things like Guido has posted. Unfortunately most checks are not quick and easy, be methodical and verify 100% as you go down the list of 'bogies'!

 

[dmkhnr]

I've got 2 stators and both test good. The CPS test at 188 on the stator that is installed, my yellows are in spec, my coil wires are in spec, and my injector wires are in spec.

I've gone over all wires in front of the gas tank. Disconnected the handlebars, the tether.

I got a new flywheel, and when comparing the flywheel that I removed the outer ring was quite a bit different.
I damaged the original flywheel ring the first time I removed it by using a gear puller clamped to the outer ring. I straightened the ring but It must have spun while running in the engine. My belief is that this fried the ecu.

I have an ECU that will be delivered Monday, I'm hoping this is the end of it.

 

[diamonddave]

I've got 2 stators and both test good. The CPS test at 188 on the stator that is installed, my yellows are in spec, my coil wires are in spec, and my injector wires are in spec.

I've gone over all wires in front of the gas tank. Disconnected the handlebars, the tether.

I got a new flywheel, and when comparing the flywheel that I removed the outer ring was quite a bit different.
I damaged the original flywheel ring the first time I removed it by using a gear puller clamped to the outer ring. I straightened the ring but It must have spun while running in the engine. My belief is that this fried the ecu.

I have an ECU that will be delivered Monday, I'm hoping this is the end of it.

I would bet a dollar your going to find the ECM to fix the problem. If you're a really good diagnostician, you can isolate the circuit in the ECM that is causing the problem. It seems at the beginning of every season there are a couple 900 ECM's on the board here that go out and cause a no spark.

Do yourself a huge favor and add an additional chassis ground wire to the engine. Any compromise in this circuit and POW goes the ECM. It should've been there from the factory as all other manufactuers run grounds to the motor.

The 900 flywheels were updated in 2006. You got the updated flywheel. One of the other changes was the bonding agent used to hold the magnets to the steel. What would happen is coolant (antifreeze) would sometimes burp out the overflow and leak right into the timing hole located directly below the overflow tube. I've seen a flywheel and stator get destroyed requiring a chopper on 3 900's. All were 05's. 1 had a small bolt get into one of the openings of the motor chewing everything up bigtime and 2 of them had delaminated flywheel magnets most likely from coolant intrusion.

A piece of tape over the timing hole is a good idea.

 

[dmkhnr]

FINALLY!!!!!!!

New ECU did it, she fired on 2 pulls. I've got 3 red flashes so I'll have to figure out what that means.

Going to tear everything back apart and wrap all wiring, heat tape where needed, and secure anthing hanging.