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newby to silber turbo

my bro is picking up a 12 silber turbo kit tomo what else does a guy need to run other then a par head 11 ratio for low elevation as we ride 1500 and 8000 feet.any suggestions would be great thanx
 
12 silber kit

i have a 2012 silber kit on my 2011 assault. i run my kit at 800 to no more the 2000 feet in elevation and didnt do anything to the heads or anything just run at the lowest boost you can run but u have to make sure u have the right fuel. i have run more then vp110 then 91 for a mix and never had any issue with it and when we went out to togwotee last year for our yearly trip all we did was change our clutch weights and drop one of our fuel controller lights dont no what anyone else does in this situation but it worked great for me and my brother hope this helps you out
 
i have a 2012 silber kit on my 2011 assault. i run my kit at 800 to no more the 2000 feet in elevation and didnt do anything to the heads or anything just run at the lowest boost you can run but u have to make sure u have the right fuel. i have run more then vp110 then 91 for a mix and never had any issue with it and when we went out to togwotee last year for our yearly trip all we did was change our clutch weights and drop one of our fuel controller lights dont no what anyone else does in this situation but it worked great for me and my brother hope this helps you out

What did you change for weights and how many pounds of boost were you running in towotee? I was under the impression that you just had to change the one light on the box for out west and play around with the green light a little if on the trails for awhile.
 
If your clutched for 5 pounds at sea level and 8-10 pounds at 8-10 thousand feet no clutching should be required. Clutching is based on power level.
 
so your saying u dont have to reclutch if u want to run your sled at 10500 to 11200? the only reason i no these elevation numbers in because of the gauge on the sled dont no how accurate that is for elevation but we were running around 10 pounds of boost and they ran good didnt hear that u didnt have to reclutch my brother talked to justin before we went out and pretty sure he said u had to but maybe my brother just assumed u had to.
 
Thought this was a snowmobile forum didnt think it mattered. I didn't no I had to type like I was in high school English class sorry
 
thanx guys that does help but i was wondering what other parts a guy needs to change to add the hp,torque stopes/arms extroverts venting and so on was looking to c what others r doing would like to do it all now and not worry. and he doesnt want to have to run race fuel if he doesnt have to so thats why he wants the low comp domes so it runs safe for the few hp u might loose im sure it will save alot of headache or am i wrong ? as i say we r new to this side of the forum just looking for any and all advise from the guys that been doing this for years thanx :yo:
 
yes stock compression, my wot pulls were only for about 5sec. other than that short bursting of throttle and normal riding. never once did my sled detect det. It is recommend to run lower boost than that at this elevation but the thing is just wicked.
 
Interesting, well I will see what I can run for boost on 100LL with a PAR 12.5 head at sea level to 3000ft. But I plan on much longer WOT pulls though:) I was planning on 6-8lbs at sea level and use the bd ebc to adjust setpoint for altitude.
 
Yep a 12 silber kit, boost it fuel controller, and bd electronic boost controller... On a 12 assault 155.
 
yes stock compression, my wot pulls were only for about 5sec. other than that short bursting of throttle and normal riding. never once did my sled detect det. It is recommend to run lower boost than that at this elevation but the thing is just wicked.
thanx maybe the par 12 would be good enough then might run some av too if we ever get this kit on both our sleds sitting in pieces and over a foot of fresh to test in total is 16 inch at farm not to bad but ditches r full to the top gotta wrench thanx guys
 
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