New to the sport just bought a 05 M7 any advice???

[Gabe]

Hello to all,

I just bought a 2005 M7 153 with 700 miles on it. Yes the speedo is working. I have done some stuff to it but would just like to know if anyone would be willing to share with me the ins and outs of this sled. what should I be looking for maintenance wise. what are the must have mods to do. clutch tips ect.. Thank you in advance for any help or advice. O yea I live in Washington state and will be doing most of my riding at Mt.Baker which will be at 3 to 6K feet in elevation. I know its taller than that but my friends say that most of the riding will be done at that elevation.

Here is what I have done so far.

-Checked compression I have 140psi each cyl. and I inspected the cyl. visually they look to be in great shape.

-Changed the diamond drive oil and inspected it.

-lubed all grease zerts.

-Inspected the clutches cleaned them and de glazed them, installed a new belt, adjusted the deflection. the weights are 70G. yellow white drive spring, white driven spring, 36 degree helix, and aligned the clutch with tool.

-replaced the hi fax.

-replaced the plugs.

- will be running amsoil full syn fuel oil.

The sled has the following mods.

-snow eliminators.

-bar risers.

-slp silencer super loud not sure what i think of it so far.

-boss seat.

-AMP belt deflector adjuster.

Thank you again for any help and advice you would be willing to share.

Gabe

 

[AaronBND]

Spend hours reading in this forum and doing searches................

 

[4Z]

Spend hours reading in this forum and doing searches................

X2

Welcome to the forum Gabe.

The first thing I did to my M7 that was bang-for-the-buck effective, gear it down. I went with 61/59 and am very happy.
Justin at Fastrax in Puyallup is a veteran of Diamond Drives.

 

[hd4rob]

I dont think I seen it on your list, but a front torque arm relocation for the rear skid is almost a must. They are like $60 from amp. I have always liked the power claw and am also a fan of the 09 rear tunnel conversions. Otherwise I would just ride it and see what you think needs to be better or improved. Modding is personal, you'll have to find what you think needs to be better then come on here and ask or search for it. There is enough people on here, were anything has been tried once or twice. Some fail and some are huge improvements

 

[snowdingo]

Wow, thats a low mile M7! Nice find

You've covered the basics for maintenance, with only 700 miles the exhaust valves should still be good, but its nice to give them a clean every year or so. Check over everything in the rear suspension, and make sure there are no missing bolts, cracks or bends and that the idler wheels spin freely. Catching a small issue early in the rear skid can save you a lot of grief!

I wouldn't worry about adding more mods. Run it and have fun!

 

[MikeM1000]

Bail off before hitting a tree and always remember, THROTTLE IS YOUR FRIEND

 

[Brett Slagle]

I ride the same sled. Here is what I would do next summer.

1. Replace all the motor mounts with the 2006 mounts. There are two PTO mounts in a plate and one MAG mount in the bulkhead. Also change the bottom mount under the motor. The 2006 mounts are a harder durometer, your 2005 mounts will eventually tear and cause clutch alignment issues which will eventually lead to belt expenses. At the same time, you should add the motor mount exhaust shield to the MAG mount, it protects the mount from the silencer exhaust heat (although yours will be less than stock with an AM silencer). I also have run a stainless steel bolt through the PTO motor mount plate through the bumper that is between the diamond drive and the PTO motor mount plate... this piece will jump out of its location without it.

2. Get a Wildchild steering post. You will snap the stocker if you ride hard at all. Match the new post with a BDX anti-slop. If you are looking for the ultimate in steering post support, contact 1100cat to get a Radsled steering post support piece. The new post and anti-slop will suffice though, breaking your post in the woods is not fun.

3. Add hood straps. If you rip this hood off, you can have electrical issues riding it out. I have four additional straps on mine.

4. Front suspension bushings. Contact pbarks, he will set you up right. The stock bushings in the front suspension are trash, will wear and will make you buy new arms if you are not careful.

After these essentials, id look into the rear suspension relocation bracket mentioned above, some ODI grips, powder pros, RKT secondary (or at least some BDX rock rollers), shock valving and if you are willing to pony the $, a powerclaw.

Keep on top of bearings/seals in the diamond drive and bearings on the track shaft and skid. I have replaced all of them, some a couple of times on my sled.

My motor is bone stock, but I pride myself in having a sled the is the ultimate in reliable and never breaks down. If you do everything above, you will avoid the few breakdowns I have had. They are great sleds, I plan to have mine for several more years as I pay off college debt and save for a house. PM me with questions. Have fun!

Brett

 

[rmscustom]

X2

Welcome to the forum Gabe.

The first thing I did to my M7 that was bang-for-the-buck effective, gear it down. I went with 61/59 and am very happy.
Justin at Fastrax in Puyallup is a veteran of Diamond Drives.

Wouldn't that be gearing it up? stock is 57/63

 

[rmscustom]

RKT head and secondary fix best mods for the M7. Might want to lose the can. most cans will lose performance on the 700s