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New to me 11 800 pro, newbie questions

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only been into sledding for about 3 years, ridden a vertical escape, dragons, and my 98rmk. found a 11 pro for 8000$ with 700 miles. Thing is in immaculate shape.

First question, cans/ pipes.
I know the difference, but not sure on what they do. I know my 98 with twins had to be re jetted. obviously that's not the case with fuel injection.. sounds like adding a can only adds sound, not so much power.
what a bout a pipe? does it add anything and does anything else need to be changed for it to run right ?

Overheating,
I notices a lot of the newer sleds have those little snow scratcher things to help cooling. mine does not. Is that something I should look at adding ? How prone are these to overheating ? how hot is "too hot "
ride trail/ powder 50/50. I am about 275#

Maintenance
I have seen people talk about turning up the oiler? or something along those lines. I am completely ignorant so be patient with me here. What are some things to do to help get the most life out of this guy, oil to run, warm up procedures, things to look out for

Overall performance,
it will probably take a while but im sure this sled will soon go the same way as my truck, modding to the max. What are some things I can do/ add to to make more power...Im guessing its not as simple as a diesel where you just add fuel and air until it breaks LOL

Thanks in advance , and forgive me if there are already 150 threads just like this, still figuring out how to navigate the site.
 
As far as overheating goes the only time I have mine get even relatively hot is on the trail for long distances which I don't like to do. I usually jump off trail into the ditch every mile or so when riding anyways, so mine stays around 135 degrees. I try not to let my sled get much over 170 just me being conservative I suppose. I do have ice scratchers on mine but that is more for when I'm on a hard packed trail to cool the plastic slides that the track rides on. Depending on elevation you ride at will have to be considered when thinking of upgrades. Nothing beats compression when at high altitude. Clutching is going to be the cheapest route to go for quick changes I think.
 
Just my opinions

Cans/pipe - cans pretty much just save on weight and make some noise but no really performance gains. Ive heard to many mixed reviews on pipes as far as running issues plus they are pretty expensive cause you also need a fuel controller not worth it to me.

Overheating - its worth it to put scratchers on usually you don't need them but if you say you ride trails id put them on. They will overheat when there is low snow conditions or i find groomed trails mine gets a little hot.

Maintenance - i personally havent turned up my oiler but more oil cant hurt. I run the polaris syn ves oil it seems to work good the exhaust valves stay pretty clean using it. I always make sure my sled warms up to 100 before i start riding and usually avoid wide open throttle until im at full operating temp.

Overall performance - first thing i would do is some clutching lots of good products out there mds seem to wake these things up. Instead of a pipe i think doing a head is better and good hp gains. Or turbo it but thats usually some serious cash. Lots of nice accessories out there like bumpers boards that kind of stuff. Things to watch on the 11s were the motor mounts going bad. Cant really think of much else gas oil and have some fun.
 
I wouldn't go past 1500 miles without doing a new top end, fuel filter at same time. At your weight you may want to look at a set of aftermarket springs for the WE shocks.
 
The Pros overheat easily, specially in late season snow in the morning (when its frozen hard and scratchers won't even work). Pretty disapointing, as I like to ride as long as there is snow, don't care if its June and 70*.. I also like to shut it down around 170-180 and pack snow on tunnel/boards (even if it doesn't last but 20' down the trail/road).
Keep your gauge set to temp most the time, I only go to MPH when I'm checking/testing clutching changes.
I personally warm up coolant temp to 120* before leaving the lot. And at least 110-115* after taking a break/getting unstuck/lunch.

The stock can on the Pro is very efficient, in both weight and power and dB rating; leave it.
May be some gains in a pipe..or ceramic coating your stocker, may as well do pipe and can if you go that route.

I think most have realized/learned the oiler really should be turned up on any new Pro; do it.

Pistons every ~1000mi if you stick to stock parts. Or look into aftermarket options for some reliability improvements there.
 
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$.02

Get the scratchers, you will need them. Always watch your temp gauge.
Get new running boards. The stock ones suck.
At least one Polaris wheel kit.
No need to change the exhaust.
Best mountain/ deep powder sled out there. Not a good trail sled.
Good luck!

Inquire here maybe?
http://www.2strokeheads.com/drop-in.htm
Or Indy Dan.
 
another question.. being that im a fat kid, I set the back coil spring as tight as recommended, which was 9 3/4 . it still sags about a inch from track off the ground to tunnel weight, and then another 3 inches when I get on. Is this ok or do I need to get a heavier coil spring?

in readiing it looks like you can adjust he front and back springs for ride too, the problem is I have no clue what does what. Its obvious that both soft and stiff springs have their place but I am wondering what the difference in each is?


Also, does the can create backpressure from a performance stand point
? am wondering if I can fab up my own exhaust to make it unique, and save some $ , if its just a straight through pipe with a glaspack, I could make something instead
 
The rear track shock adjustments play a role on how much ski pressure you will end up, many threads out there on this issue. Best to bring your spanner with you on a bluebird day and play with different settings. As I said before I would suggest different springs given your weight, you are outside the average weight range that these come from the factory set for. Most cans out there do nothing to add HP, some may even hinder.
 
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