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New sled owner has some questions

RanOutofTalent

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
So I bought my first sled (2014 Pro RMK 800, has 900 miles on it) a couple weeks ago and have been reading like crazy trying to educate myself as well as I can. I have read over all the stickys on how to properly lubricate everything and how to adjust my shocks. I have a few questions that I cant seem to find an answer for.
1. Is the Polaris oil the oil most people run in their sleds?
2. What spark plugs to most people run? I believe mine has BPR9ES.
3. How important is adjusting the oil pump screw?
4. How is the TKI gear down belt drive different than the stock one on my sled now? I look at it and it is a belt drive so it confuses me a little.
5. I will be riding in the UP of michigan often and then headed out to wyoming. In regards to my clutching should I be changing anything around?

Any any all advice is appreciated.
 
Hey there ROT welcome to the pro chassis your gonna love it.
To help with you questions;
Oil- I run Polaris gold in mine. Have in the last 4 sleds.
The oil pump screw I would leave alone unless to do mods to the motor otherwise just keep track as you ride make sure it's using oil from the tank. If you are worried about it just add some oil in gas tank. Don't do this myself so I don't know a good ratio.
The spark plugs you have are correct however you could choose to upgrade to the iridium plug BPR9EIX i think.
Tki belt drive runs an idler on the belt and a gates belt. Less expensive to change gearing. Polaris belt drive has no idler
Clutching just stick to stock specs. They work good. To go from UP to Wyoming just change weights.

Hope this helps some. Good luck. Do your snow dance.
 
Thank you for responding. I am really excited to finally own my own sled and stop renting and borrowing. Just the answers I was looking for. As far as clutch weights is there a set I should buy and how do I know which ones to use?

Added a picture because I am proud http://imgur.com/Zf5YLDz
Zf5YLDz
 
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There are tons of weights built by a lot of companies. Imo I would just stay with Polaris weights. Easiest way to help you is go to your local Polaris dealer ask for a clutching chart for your sled. Will give you the weights vs altitude you need. FYIthe fly weights in the primary clutch change WOT rpm. So heavier weight lower altitude.
Example I ride at 1500ft at home. Run 10-68 weights@8200rpm
When I ride in the west say 9500ft. Run 10-60 or 10-62 weights depending on snow.
I also only weigh about 180 ready to ride so that makes a difference too.

Ps congrats on new sled. Your pic isn't working. Fix it I want to see that bad toy.

Here's me on my 15 in togwotee last March

image.jpg
 
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1. Is the Polaris oil the oil most people run in their sleds?

Many do. Both Redline, 100% synth, and Legend, 100% dino, have proved to be popular. There have been good results with others.

2. What spark plugs to most people run? I believe mine has BPR9ES. Good plug stock.

The E3s are better, but they will oil foul easier, e.g., if you turn up the pump delivery and add oil to gas. I've experienced this myself, so have others, and run the BPR9ES again. Find what works for you.

3. How important is adjusting the oil pump screw?

Find out what you're getting on the first ride. It may have been turned up already. Research oil cap, too. Get to 35:1 or thereabouts. You can always add an ounce per gal of fuel in the tank, too.


4. How is the TKI gear down belt drive different than the stock one on my sled now? I look at it and it is a belt drive so it confuses me a little.

Tensioner, more gear teeth in contact with the belt. Biggest - you can change gearing, as in gear it down. Probably the best single mod you can do unless you plan to run +90 on the trail in the UP. FWIW, the 5.1 doesn't really like high speeds.

5. I will be riding in the UP of michigan often and then headed out to wyoming. In regards to my clutching should I be changing anything around?

Depends where in WY and your sled. KJAssault is right with the weights for you stock. You can run the black purple secondary spring in WY for abit better backshift. Depends on snow and how attentive you are to clutching. There are some good clutch kits out there with both better backshift and upshift. If you do a TKI, try his clutching recs.

Others - Warm it up well before hammering it, both cold and after a 10 or 15 minute break. Avoid overheating it. There's some good info in the TRS $28 upgrade thread if you're interested. Different things you can do here, but most run it stock, and just watch temps, and don't hammer it until it's at operating temp. Put a tether on it for riding out west. There's a plug for one in the bag under the bar clamp. Run good premium fuel, avoid ethanol wherever possible. Pay attention to shock setup in the rear skid, the skid is sensitive to small changes in setup.
 
Thank you. I will stop by the dealership this week and get the weights from the dealership. Any links for the research oil cap? With watching the clutch temp what is the best way to monitor it?

I get a box of spare plugs and try some of the premium ones as well to find out what works.
 
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=386404

Link to thread by TRS about using a skidoo cap

If you choose to watch clutch temps I'd use an infrared heat gun from auto parts store.

Reg2view is right make sure to let it idle and warm up to 100 degrees before you hammer on it or you run the risk of cold scoring the Pistons. Also try and let it idle for a minute before you shut it off when riding to try and eliminate hot and cold surges in the coolant.
 
With watching the clutch temp what is the best way to monitor it?

Sorry for the confusion - I was referring to water temp in my prior post. The gauge can display the water temp continuously, with either speed or RPM. Most pro owners I know display the rpm and water temp all the time. I don't pin it hard until the water temp is 120F with a good heat soak (not just the first time the motor hits 120 from stone cold), and I've got scratchers down, and/or looking for soft snow to spin onto the coolers when it hits 150F. That's with a stock motor with stock thermostat. FWIW.
 
Sweet looking ride. I like the blacked out look. Looking at pic think first on my upgrade list would be a rear bumper. Know there are a few good brands. I prefer skins. Easier to get your hands around when you get stuck. And they don't break like factory one is none to. They also make front bumper that is nice to get ahold of too.
Others may prefer different brands. Feel free to share them. Just telling you what I've had good luck with.

Also there is a belt protection plate that goes under the belt drive so the belly pan don't hit it.

Another good point is to watch the belt drive so ice doesn't build up around it. There is a vent that goes in the foot well to eliminate this problem made by Mike Taylor. Get ahold of him on here he's an awesome guy to deal with.
 
200:1 oil in the tank....warm up is important but dont let it idle 10 min then pin it leaving the parking lot. Leave at a reasonable speed to let motor get oil. I use Blue Marble. Watch the belt drive...ice, bellypan, bottom bolt can break IMO replace with ARP bolt....RideItLikeYou StoleIt!!!!!!
 
All good advice especially the warm up. If you ride in trees and over them sometimes when they are hiding under the snow it's nice to have a belt drive bash plate to protect bottom pulley and belt they did not redesign belly pan on the 14s to properly accommodate belt drive system and there is very little clearance and this bulge on the bottom of sled is a low point that can flex easy.
 
Don't worry Bout a box of spare plugs. Just have a set to change if you foul one.
It's got 900 mi so do you know what the po has done to it? I wouldn't touch clutching until u ride it and know what's in it.
Check your oil usage on the first couple rides. Easy. Fill tanks to known or marked spot. Measure how much you add of both before the next ride to same points and calc your usage. My 12 was pretty lean on oil. It's a real concern but not necessarily your concern until u check it.
And sweet sled! For a first sled u did it right! Congrats.
 
I mainly run stock clutching and adjust for elevation per the Polaris owners manual. Polaris seems to have clutching pretty close out of the box.

In Michigan I run 10-68 weights and in the Snowies wyoming and Island Park I run 10-62's for weights. Seems to keep my RPMs spot on.
 
Thanks KJ, I ordered a B and M fab front and rear bumpers recently and am waiting for an FTX protector kit for tunnel bracing. As far as the belt drive protector plate does anyone besides Skinz make them? Not sure of anything in particular is done to the clutching. I think that is a great idea to ride it first and then go from there. I will check the weights just to be sure before my first ride in Michigan's UP. I will also be sure to warm the sled up religiously and keep the temp gauge on my display. Thank you for all the solid advice, it cant start snowing soon enough!

Edit: Ripnit, I was reading earlier in the year about the Quickdrive bolt with something stronger, what are the specs of the bolt I am looking for? I would prefer to not take it off until I have the right one with me.

Second Edit: So I am taking the skid out once my FTX protector kit comes in to install it and I plan on doing all my greasing then. Also when I do this I am curious should I be adjusting my rear suspension at all? If so what is the best way to go about this?
 
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http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=389180&highlight=Quickdrive+bolt

Here's a thread on the qd bolts. First post has specs and a link to bolts

You are welcome. I by no means know it all just trying to help with my experience and the advice I've gotten. As I have a great relationship with my Polaris salesman and techs. Ex racers too.

As far as the belt protector. I don't even know the brand on mine. Told salesman to set sled up right and it was on when I picked it up. Maybe gobig or someone can chime in on that.
 
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