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New Pro Track

Took my first ride in the mountains this weekend on my new RMK Assault. LOVED it! only complaint was the track trenching. Should have listened to what everyone had said about it but i just loved that orange a little too much. Anyone try any different tracks on the new pro's? I was thinkin i'd just put the same 2.4" track as the pro RMK unless there is something as good or better for a better price.
 
The CE is a great track and somewhere in between the 5.1 and Assault track. It will trench more than the 5.1 but it is a much better overall track. Well...it was on the IQ chassis, but the 5.1 is doing great on my Pro Ride. It just hooks up better.
 
I rode with Chris Burandt for the last 4 days and the pro rmk's worked very well in the dry Colorado powder. They were much better than the m-8 and my Summit E-tech as our tracks were trenching and the soft Polaris tracks flexed and packed snow down. The spring snow is a different story as the stiffer tracks dominate in that and the Polaris tracks are scary on the downhill. So if you ride dry powder go for the Polaris RMK track or Camoplast or Powerclaw for wetter or set up snow. Stay away from the Assault track.

And its not because the Pro is so great, my kids IQ 700 was working really well too.
 
pro rmk with stock track worked well today up in central wa state. snow was a light powder as temps were in the single digits. track seems to work well in tracked up snow as well as untouched pow. have not been in the cascade concrete yet but sled seems to go when I think it is going to stop???
 
YOur cheapest switch would be to find a takeoff 5.1 polaris. It works good until it's icy, then lookout!
 
One of our area Polaris dealers has been telling their customers that "the 2011RMK track is a stiffer durometer." Anyone else heard this?

Thanks,

Kale
 
My buddy and myself have the same sleds. I switched over to the CE 163 track as I thought it would be much better. He was out climbing mine easily with the 5.1 track. We are very close to the same weight so something was wrong. We swapped sleds and I watched him climb with mine and the skid was not stiff enough and was bottoming out. I had set it to the max spec in the book but it was just not enough. I asked him when he came back how tight his rear shock was and he said max plus three full turns. We flipped my sled on its side and cranked in three more turns. Wow! what a difference. We are now neck and neck and it climbs like crazy. In fact it was very hard to keep the front end down when it was hooked up. We are both installing straight rails from Iceage and the fatboy springs to help both issues and prevent bottoming out the spring on the trail. My turbo kit will be here next week, but I want to go on the next trip with the engine stock to see the difference. For the hill climbers out there, add two or three extra turns into the rear shock and check out the difference. I do not think the CE track swap was worth the money right now, but maybe with the turbo put on it will be a different story. For a stock sled, keep your money.
 
I've got a brand new 90 Duro Power Claw 153 that I'd sell.

What would have to be done to make this track work on a pro? Besides changing to 3 pitch drivers, Is there still a clearance issue like on the raw chassis. Thanks in advance.
 
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